i have heard of cutting a little of your coil springs to lower the car and inch or so.
i know its probably not the best way to do it but when you have no money and want to work on your car. its something to do.

can you do it for both front and back.

where do you cut and how much do you cut off?

i only want to drop it abournd 1.5 inches

Dont do it. I dont care how many replies you get from people saying to do it! JCWhitney has ST lowering spring for $80 a pair. You still have to have your car aligned when you are done anyway. Besides, once you lower it with lowering springs, you still have your stock springs to put back in if you dont like it or decide to sell it......*

*the above formentioned is only the opinion of the username "V8Fiero". NOT intended to piss off anyone or cause a flame war*

Good luck
Scott

quote Originally posted by V8Fiero: *the above formentioned is only the opinion of the username "V8Fiero". NOT intended to piss off anyone or cause a flame war* [/B]

Nice disclaimer LOL

well, what year do you have, remember when lowering these cars you have to compensate by relocating the bumpstop perches higher than stock

I have always given my customer the option of cutting springs or new lowering springs, informing them of the benifits and negitive sides about each, but some do choose to simply cut the springs

Eric - West Coast Fiero www.cwestco.com
310-305-4111

Here's the subject for this thread...
"How do you cut YOUR springs to lower MY car?"

Well we say, cut YOUR own damn springs!

...how about an '88? What's available to lower an '88's suspension?

quote Originally posted by TI_3VOM: ...how about an '88? What's available to lower an '88's suspension?

Fierostore has lowering springs for the 88 as well.

You can always cut the stock ones, but it's not the best way to go.

If you have money to burn, Held has dropped spindels and coilovers for the 88

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88GT 5sp, in desperate need of an LT1
http://www.geocities.com/fiero88gt1/

I have used the Fiero Store springs on several of my '88s over the years (since '94). They are nice and lower the car enough to look "right". I recommend staying with the stock rubber bushings up front though.......poly is just too stiff when coupled with the springs and performance shocks (I've experimented with both).

I am actually in the process of rebuilding the suspension on my '88 GT. I just installed new rubber bushings & ball joints on an extra set of lower control arms I have (also repainted them). I'm waiting for a new set of lowered springs and steering rack from the Fiero Store......I can't wait, my suspension is all screwed up right now (bad shocks, struts, bushings and loose rack).

At any rate, I think it is worth the $250. Eventually I will install the Held coilover stuff, but not until I get some $$$.

Cut exactly one coil at top in the front. I did that and it droped 1-1.5". Ride is stiff but you can live with that if you have good roads in your area.
On the rear I heard to cut one half (1/2) of a coil for 1" drop. But that I haven't done it.

DONT!!!!!! you have them out anyway, why not do it rite and use lowering springs made for it.

Don't do it!!! Springs are designed as a complete unit. The coil windings and spring rate is NOT symetrical throught the length of the spring. Cutting a coil off will not only lower the car, but will also radically alter the way the spring works.

quote Originally posted by GTMike: how to cut your springs to lower my car??????

Cutting my springs won't do a darn thing for your car.

This doesn't answer the question you asked, but I say buy a set of lowering springs if you must lower your car. If for no other reason than that you have the stock ones to change back in later, should you want to.

Remember to not swap them left/right. GM tests the springs and puts the ones that are between median and high tolerance on the left and the ones between median and low tolerance on the right. This compensates for the weight of the driver.

If you're lowering your car for cosmetic reasons, like smaller wheel house gap, just get larger tires, they close the gap all around and give the car a little more ground clearance for rough urban roads and parking lot entrances.

If you're lowering for handling reasons, I suggest you save up for a set of dropped spindles.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 07-05-2001).]

Where wer all you guys saying "don't cut your springs" a few weeks ago? I was the ONLY one saying "don't" against a whole thread of "aw, it don't hurt nothin'..."

Anyway, they're right. The risk is simply NOT worth the small savings. If you don't have $150 for springs, you surely don't have nearly $500 to replace everything you could ruin by using the cut ones. Wait till you have the cash.

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Michael ~ triadtuning@hotmail.com
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Photoshop rendering of planned exterior modifications.

[This message has been edited by TRiAD (edited 07-05-2001).]

i cut 1 1/4 coil off the front springs and 1 1/2 coils off the rear springs. make sure you cut them slow and with a chop saw as not to heat them up any more than needed. also, make sure the spring ends go into the rubber grommet notch again as not to be uneven on either side. you WILL need an alignment IMMEDIATELY after doing this, or you will chew up your tires. after that, you should be fine. mine's an 85 GT and i race SCCA courses. it is not a daily driver, but i have had good luck with my cut springs. don't forget to trim the factory bumpstops or remove them. good luck!!

I would say to avoid cutting your springs-my buddy has a '94 Mustang with cut coils, rides like crap, mainly because stock spring rates are designed to deal with longer suspension travel, and when cut, are too soft for the short travel and will bottom out VERY easily. Also, cut springs only lover your COG. Aftermarket springs are progressive rate (I think the ST springs are) which means the more the suspension travels, the stiffer they get, reducing bottom-out and body roll. I reccomend the ST springs-I'm getting either those or Intrax springs in September.

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'85 GT (in progress)
titled ICE-plates B LO 0

Go to www.audioimagery.i-p.com !!!

Pontiac Fiero Owner's Club-Pics, Videos and More-Or Post your Own

definite no-no. Your car's springs are already fatigued from 15 or so years of use. Buy some lowering springs, better yet for ride quality -- get some drop spindles and some coilovers.

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1986 Pontiac Fiero GT
2000 VW 1.8T NB

you guys need to remember, HE HAS NO MONEY!!! he wants to cut his springs and work on his car and he's asking how to do so. yes, it'll ride like a brick. yes, lowering springs are probably mathematically correct, but they still ride like a brick on a skateboard even after spending $200 on them. cut the springs.

Hey Mike!
Here is my 2 cents worth...
DON'T cut, heat, or buy lowering springs...
THE ONLY WAY is drop spindles for the front...
Confused???
Good! If you change the springs, it eliminates suspention travel, not good on a Fiero...
If you still want to lower the car with springs, then lowering springs are the best followed by cutting ONE turn off, BUT NEVER heat them till they sag, as it will continue to sag over time...
It is your car and you can do whatever you please with it...
So make your mind up and go for it!
crash...

I think cutting springs -- in moderation -- is a workable low-bucks way to lower your car. I have done it to my Fiero and an old Capri. In both cases it improved handling.

On my '85 SE 2.5 WS6, I cut 1 coil from the front springs and 1/2 coil from the rears, using an abrasive cutting disk in a pneumatic die grinder. A Dremel with cutting disks will also work but is much slower.

Cut springs will ride harder. If I were doing it again, I would find a set of junkyard non-WS6 springs, and cut them.

Of course, you need to align the suspension afterward. Moog adjustable upper ball joints will help.

thanks for the posts guys i was just gathering some information. i probably will just save up the money to get lowering springs.

and i guess i have to really whatch how i word the subjects of my posts there are some people with to much time on thier hands and get off on pointing out mistakes.

thanks for all the info on lowering a fiero.

quote Originally posted by GTMike: thanks for the posts guys i was just gathering some information. i probably will just save up the money to get lowering springs. and i guess i have to really whatch how i word the subjects of my posts there are some people with to much time on thier hands and get off on pointing out mistakes. thanks for all the info on lowering a fiero.

Hey Mike!
That's too not to...
Watch not whatch...
Their not thier...
I not i...
Fiero not fiero...
crash...
Sorry, couldn't resist ;-}

you have to much time.

too much time

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86.5 2m4 5speed turd 241,000kms

I haven't tried this on a fiero...but I've done it on 10 or more 67-69 firebirds. Place something under the car at the heighth that you wish the car to be. Heat the spring as close to the top as possible....about 2 inches wide. The car will begin to settle onto the block set to the correct height. Don't heat it any more than necessary. Do this all way round.

Now before I get flamed to death....I've never done it on anything but 67-69 firebirds and they handle like **** anyway so who could notice a difference. I have not tried this on my fiero gt nor any other kind of car. Im not suggesting it, meerly giving instructions on how to acomplish it if anyone wants to try it.

I will prob try it on my GT at some point, but it's not at the top of my priority list right now.

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GTDude's 86GT

quote Originally posted by GTDude: I haven't tried this on a fiero...but I've done it on 10 or more 67-69 firebirds. Place something under the car at the heighth that you wish the car to be. Heat the spring as close to the top as possible....about 2 inches wide. The car will begin to settle onto the block set to the correct height. Don't heat it any more than necessary. Do this all way round. Now before I get flamed to death....I've never done it on anything but 67-69 firebirds and they handle like **** anyway so who could notice a difference. I have not tried this on my fiero gt nor any other kind of car. Im not suggesting it, meerly giving instructions on how to acomplish it if anyone wants to try it. I will prob try it on my GT at some point, but it's not at the top of my priority list right now.

and destroy the temper, so that every bump you hit "lowers" the car another 1/8"? Cutting is bad, heating has the potential of being FAR worse. Worse-case scenario, the weakend coil SNAPS after flexing and weakening. That's one way to trash an entire corner...

If you have an 88, cut exactly one coil off the front. They're coilovers already, and the ****up you do to the spring rate is actually *perfect* for a 1" front drop.

If you do not have an 88, GET LOWERING SPRINGS!

Coilovers front and rear are always best too.

Best!
Ben

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Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red           "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver                     -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

quote Originally posted by b lo 0: I would say to avoid cutting your springs-my buddy has a '94 Mustang with cut coils, rides like crap,.

It's a known fact, Mustangs ride like crap anyhow, even from new.

Yes I have driven mustangs, old and new style.

GTMike, If you have no cash, and want to cut your springs, do it, just don't use a torch, and be careful of heating the springs when you cut them.
Have an alignment done afterwards.

You should have directed your post towards people who have cut their springs, theres a load of people here who like to add their opinion towards something they have not done their selves.

Opinions are like a$$holes, everybody has them. Usually opinions aren't worth a darn.
Also some people read too much and form their opions from what they have read.

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[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 12-15-2001).]

cut the springs for god sakes cut the springs! I cut 1.5 coils off the front and 1.6 off the rear, and it rides 90% original. They have been cut for about 2 months now, and I havent had any problems. I havent scraped on anything, I havent bottomed out. Geeze, sometimes I think you guys that are anti spring cutters, havent ever done it. You guys sit in front of your computers and learn about fieros. I work in the garage and learn about fieros. I have done it, it worked for me. My springs are probably fatigued, and way more than most of you guys springs. I have 184K on my car (and thats miles not km). When something goes terribly wrong and I see adverse effects of cutting springs I will fall in line with the anti cutters, but till then, cut on!

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http://www.fieroX.com
coming soon L67 powered 87 coupe

Ben,

Do you still have enough range of adjustment to set the camber?
Seems like when pherder lowered his 88 coupe, he ran out of adjustment before the camber was correct. I may be mistaken, though.

When I swap my donor Formula drivetrain (springs, struts and all) into my 88 coupe, I plan to cut one coil off the 88 coupe front springs. I'm guessing (hoping?) that the coupe springs, when cut, will be just the right stiffness. Not gonna do anything to the back until I see how it looks and handles. And if it turns out to be horrible, I still have the springs from the front of the donor.

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Raydar

From the Department of Redundancy Department.

wow i made that post way back in july.

i still havn't cut my springs. or got lowering springs. i'll probaby lower after winter.

I personally would not cut your springs only because it meeses up the spring rate. Get lowering springs. Your better off.

Scott

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Fierokid's Web site:
http://www.angelfire.com/sports/sfiero

AIM: Fierokid87
ICQ: Fierokid

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: DONT!!!!!! you have them out anyway, why not do it rite and use lowering springs made for it.

You dont need them off to cut them Roger. And didnt he say he had NO money?

Hi Steve, I still had *plenty* of range up front on all parameters. We even got the alignment close enough by hand to drive to the good alignment /tuner shop 30miles away with no problems. Drove beautifully!

Was it the rears he ran out of range on? just elongate the strut oval holes a tad with a die grinder, their tollernaces are not great...

Remenber I cut exactly one coil (this was just perfect for me, droped the front WRT the rear instead of the crack-headed way the car came from GM.)

Springs were standard Formula 'ARD' hardness (middle of three hardnesses offered)

I'd actually be a little concerned that coupe springs still might not be stiff enough when cut, but have no expierence with them, and just like my cut ARDs SO much

PS: I too was a big time anti-cutter.... untill I had a spare set of springs and decided to try it for the sheer heck of it one day... I did a complete 180, cut 88 springs rock.

Best!
Ben

quote Originally posted by Raydar: Ben, Do you still have enough range of adjustment to set the camber? Seems like when pherder lowered his 88 coupe, he ran out of adjustment before the camber was correct. I may be mistaken, though. When I swap my donor Formula drivetrain (springs, struts and all) into my 88 coupe, I plan to cut one coil off the 88 coupe front springs. I'm guessing (hoping?) that the coupe springs, when cut, will be just the right stiffness. Not gonna do anything to the back until I see how it looks and handles. And if it turns out to be horrible, I still have the springs from the front of the donor.

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Ben Cannon
88 Formula, T-top, Metalic Red           "Every Man Dies, not every man really Lives"
88 Formula, Northstar, Silver                     -Mel Gibson, "Braveheart"

I have an '86 GT that came with the stiffest springs that were available. I put ST springs in the front and cut one coil off the rears. Removing one coil would have been enough to closely match the front fender gap, had I not put the ST springs in. However, the ST's *slammed* the front. So the car still looked "jacked up"...Held's coil-over kit (that's installed on the cradle now)should correct that. There was absolutely no noticeable difference in ride quality, at either end, with the cut coils and the ST's. If your factory springs are softer, then you might notice a difference in the ride. Otherwise, I say cut 'em!

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Later...TF
86 GT

Now for my 2 cents.

I cut the springs on my 86 SE. I have also whacked the springs on MANY cars over the years, with no ill affects. In some cases, the bump stops had to be modified, and alignments were not a problem. The secret is going a little bit at a time. If you're not sure, cut 1/2 coil, put tem back in and drive it for a day to let them settle and see how much the car lowered. I like to use a high speed cutoff tool (fiber disk) and deburr the end afterwards.

Cutting a spring will raise the spring rate(make it stiffer), so the ride will be harsher, but the improvements in handling and looks (in my opinion) outweigh that. Besides, race cars ride rough, right?

Do what you want, but not until you've gotten input from people who have done it.

You are wanting to do this as cheaply as possible, so don't do something that will cost you a lot more in the long run.

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Timothy E. Smith
1986 SE V6
1984 Coupe

I have cut springs on two cars (one of them was a fiero) and I have put new springs on three cars (one of them was a different fiero). Cutting in moderation works fine. Use a chop saw never a torch. New springs are better. period. Money is good. period. If your desire for perfect springs is less than your cash then cut your springs. If you screw them up then you will have to buy springs anyway. If that happens get some good lowering springs. Good luck

right on tesmith66 !! that's what i'm talking about. damn, i would've cut the springs already and have been enjoying my lowered Fiero by now. player haters screw everything up.

I put Fiero Store lowering springs on my 86 SE and after about a year the fronts pretty much collapsed leaving me riding on the bump stops 90% of the time. After breaking 2 front crossmembers (upper control arm mounts) I said screw that and had my mechanic (long time Fiero guy) cut the springs in the front, reenforce welded the a-arm mounts on another crossmember, and cut an inch or so out of the bump stops. Still have the lowering springs on the rear. Now it has basically no body roll (full poly bushings and f/r swaybars) doesn't hit the bump stops, and the front end sits about 3 inches off the pavement.

As far as I know the stock front springs (and maybe the rears) are not progressive (ie same rate throughout the compressable range). The aftermarket (Eibach, Fiero Store, etc) are progressive.

I didn't do much of the work but I know it wasn't the easiest way to do it but since I didn't have the cash for new springs or drop spindles at the time it was my best option. I'm happy with the way it rides, corners and stops.....for now....until I get the bux for coilovers.
http://www.raceme.cc/fiero/members/paul/6-17fiero.jpg

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Paul Heindselman
Southwest Idaho Fiero Club
1986 Fiero SE 2M6 - Red
1986 Fiero SE 2M6 - Black (For Sale)
2000 Grand Am GT Sedan - White

[This message has been edited by helmet1978 (edited 12-19-2001).]

Does the cut end of the spring go up or down? Does it make any difference?