I am getting the following items from pat, and i was wondering the easiest/best ways to put them on. 1.) Zr1 Cowl Scoop 2.) 1/4 window scoops 3.) Z3 louvers/scoops/vents (whatever you want to call them.
The best way I know to do it, is to rough up the area you want to bond to with paper that will leave a good "tooth" something like #36 or #40 grit. Dertermine exactly where you want to position your add on part. Use self tapping sheet screws or rivets to hold it in place while your bond sets up. After you have positioned the part, have your screw or rivet holes drilled, ( clamp the part in place to drill the holes and drill through everything),take it back off. Here it's up to you what you want to use for adhesive. The auto paint supply houses have several different products to chose from. I use Duraglass which is available at most parts stores or even K-Mart! You have to work quick on this step. Have everything ready before you start, all layed out and within easy reach. An extra set of hands is adviseable as well. Mix up enough Duraglass (or whatever you're using) to cover the mounting flange/lip on the part and the matching area on the panel. Remember, you have to "get with the program" at this stage or you will have a mess to clean up, and allot more work to do cause you will be starting over! Spread an even layer of your adhesive (about 1/8" thick and as wide as the flange/lip)on both the flange/lip and the panel you are putting it on. Quickly, put your part in place and install the fastners. Let it kick then start sanding and blending. Allways use a sanding "block" where possible, so you don't create "waves", unless you want a real friendly car! If you used rivets, you can drill them out and fill the holes, screws, just remove them and fill the holes. Again, I say, this is the best method I have found. Have put many hood scoops on this way as well as other type parts. The headlight things you would probably be better off just clamping them while they set up. Do they get bonded to the stock covers or do they replace them? Not seen them so I don't know. If they bond on to the originals, again, I would probably just clamp them, allthough a counter sunk rivet or screw would pretty much guarantee they'd stay put!
Anyway, these are just some of the methods I use, and I'm sure you will come up with one that works for you.
Post some pics of before-during-after of your projects, I'm sure everyone would enjoy seeing them.
From my personal experience, DO NOT ever use fiberglass resin to bond anything to SMC (fiero) panels unless you like doing the job twice. It will bond fine to the fiberglass, but fall off the SMC once the panels start to flex. Slow setting epoxy is a better choice, but I'd have to use SMC adhesive or SMC filler- it is available at better auto supply stores.
Does anyone have an official breakdown of the materials used in the Fiero body? I know for certain that the front & rear fascias, fenders, doorskins, quarter panels, and rocker panels are all made of SMC composition. But I seem to recall that the roof section(?), sail panels, front hood, and rear decklid are all more like traditional fiberglass... Can anyone confirm this ('cause if the decklid is FG and not SMC, then you could still use normal resin if you want).
I've also heard of people using 3M's "Rigid Red" body filler/adhesive. But some of the bodywork on my GT was finished with this- and the paint doesn't seem to stick (could be poor prep on the paint-shop's part too).
Cooter is RIGHT! Guess I should have specified in my suggestion, that it is for fiberglass to fiberglass, NOT to the ureathane panels. The stuff I use is called "Bondo-glass" but duraglass is the same stuff made by a different co.. Aus says he knows of an adhesive that will bond glass to ureathane, and I think Pat mentioned it too. I have not investigated it here, but I did see something down at the paint store that claimed it will bond fiberglass to ANYTHING! I thnk it was a 3M product. I have bonded glass parts to ureathane panels but only long enough to make molds from them. They will not hold up to the riggers of everyday driving, from my experience. I figured since you were talking about a hood scoop and headlight covers, that you were working on only the fibrtglass panels of the car. The Z3 vents are a different story if you want to put them on the fenders. You will have to ask Pat about that! On the hood, they shouldn't pose any problem. The sailpanel scoops shouldn't be a problem either. As far as I know the breakdown of the panels on the car are just as MinnGreenGT said. The hood, trunk deck, and entire roof,(rear clip) are "pressed glass" which for all practical purposes works about the same as chopper gunned or hand layed glass. The suggestion I gave you will work on all of those parrticular panels.
A couple friends of mine with a bodyshop use a product called duramix i believe. Its a two part epoxy. Lots of bodyshops these days use it instead of mig-welding- Putting on doorskins and boxskins- I seen a roof skin glued on with it and it does a good job- Its approved safty wise also with new car crumple zones and what not
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11:30 PM
Dec 6th, 2001
Bazooka Member
Posts: 1301 From: Chicago, IL. Registered: Mar 2001
MinngreenGT, SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) makes up the hood, roof, rear upper quarter panels and rear decklid. RRIM (Reinforced Reaction Injection Molding) makes up the fenders, doors, and lower rear quarters. RIM (Reaction Injection Molded Urethane) is used on the Facias. TPO (Thermo Plastic Olefin) is used for the Rocker Panels. All Fiero panels are painted with High Solids Acrylic Enamels and covered with a clearcoat. ********************************
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Originally posted by MinnGreenGT: Does anyone have an official breakdown of the materials used in the Fiero body? I know for certain that the front & rear fascias, fenders, doorskins, quarter panels, and rocker panels are all made of SMC composition. But I seem to recall that the roof section(?), sail panels, front hood, and rear decklid are all more like traditional fiberglass... Can anyone confirm this ('cause if the decklid is FG and not SMC, then you could still use normal resin if you want).
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01:16 AM
David DeVoe Member
Posts: 1358 From: Grand Blanc, MI US Registered: Jul 2001
Minngreen and others Bazooka is right on with his info on panel materials, just checked in the factory manual and he's got it word for word. I have some cosmetic damage to front fascia and hood and am looking at Duramix as the best repair material. They also have urethane glues for bonding panels. If anyone is interested I have a link to their site. Dave
Thanks Bazooka! I had the general groupings right, but the material listing wrong! (for some reason I was thinking that the rubbery panels were the SMC... haven't read the manual in awhile- thanks!)
I'd recommend 3M or Fusor for your bonding, you'll have to beg, borrow, or steal an applicator gun though, the 3M gun is over $200 and the Fusor gun is around $50. If you're in good with an auto body supply store they can probably lend you one.