I've heard many talk about the 2.8 having oiling problems. What have people done to help the problem? I don't want to swap my motor, I just want to make it more reliable. Is there a better pump I can get? Any inexpensive things I can do to help? Better oil? I sometimes like to rev my engine at higher RPMs, and I don't want my engine to die early.

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-Adam
sqoach@yahoo.com

^^^^^new project^^^^^

86 SC 2.5L 5spd

Lead-in grooves in the crank can do wonders, and IMO the idea of an externally balanced crank is terrible. Enging harmonics may cancel out, but think of all the extra stress put on those main bearings as an unbalanced crank rotates.

If you want to go overkill, a high-volume oil pump can be dropped in too. Melling HV95 is what I've got going in my 2.8 build.

Sqoach, Oiling is only a problem for a neglected engine or an engine that you plan to rev up a lot. For normal and spirited driving (but not drag racing), just put in a high volume oil pump. I got one from carparts.com (melling or TRW I think) for a reasonable price. Ask 1Fast about his crank mods (I don't think he has any) and he races his with a strong dose of nitrous. The lead in grooves where originally done by MacPherson 220 hp offroad s-10 pickup. That engine was highly modified and intended for race only maybe 20hrs between rebuilds.

Adam
With very few exceptions all v6 Fieros I've looked at were high mile cars, with 80 to 160k miles mostly on the original engine. I think the lube problem is more imagined than real. BTW Crane cams warns against using the high volume oil pump in the 2.8 citing faster wear of the drive gear on the cam. I am rebuilding a 2.8 using a cast iron replacement pump with standard capacity. The engine had 98k on it with just normal wear. No oiling problems here.
Dave

will the 3.4 or 3.4 dohc motor's pump fit in the 2.8 old style block????

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Question wonder and be wierd

Bet I get flamed for this but....

I have been told by a certified GM mechanic of over 20 years that these 2.8 engines suffered from a lack of oiling at the camshaft. This insufficient oiling resulted eventually in a lack of oil at the crank resulting in spun rod bearings.

Also, it seems to be common knowledge that crank #3 & #4 bearings are notorious for going earlier that the others.

I any or all of this generally true, it seems as if even good, regular maintenance will still result in the inevitable - a replaced engine!

BTW - I'm replacing a 143K 2.8 for a "spun bearing".

So if I just change my oil reguarly (3000mi) and make sure it's full, I should be ok? If my oil pump goes out, I'll probably put a higher flowing one in. I'll just keep my revs down a bit and check my oil level often. Thanks for the replies.

All bearings replaced here less the 10K miles ago by preveous owner.

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AIM: DR650SE
2 Black 86 SE's V-6 4-SPD

Replaced all bearings? Rods, mains and cam bearings? Overhaul or just bearing replacement?

I'm trying to decide if I want to just replace the crank bearings knowing that the cam bearings could have been the problem that caused the rod to go.

Engine runs beautifully and burns no oil, just that pesky little rod knock.

I can vouch for spun bearing problem. Records show only about 70K on my GT's engine and I had a bearing go round and round and round two days after buying her. Now I'm planning on a new crank, bearings, and life for the old girl. Car has 136K

Anytime you increase pressure or volume at the pump, you will put more stress on the drive gear. But, realizing that cams are only designed for 100K miles, I don't think asking the drive gear for 100K miles before it fails is asking too much to supply more oil.

I am not 100% sure yet, I haven't received my '88 crank yet, but I am 99% sure that neutrally balanced 2.8 cranks(and maybe 3.1L too?), have lead-in grooves. I know I have 183K miles on the original engine in my Formula. Yes, the bottom end is not as tight as it once was, and oil pressure is suffering a little, but it still does everything I ask of it so far.

I think the oil problem is more imagined than real too, but do realize that the 2.8 seems to have more than its fair share of spun bearings.

I had the same problem with my GT. Took the connector off and sprayed it with contact cleaner.I also noticed that the oil pressure sending unit has a bracket on it but it isn't bolted to anything. It just kinda sits there.Any one know if its supposed to be bolted down. At the same time that I cleaned the connector I installed a thermomaster chip along with a low temp thermostat and fan switch. The problem went away. Not sure why.Car runs alot better with the new chip but idles at about 1300rpms in park. Idles perfectly in gear anyone know why. I figure it may be that my base timing is off as it seems to be missing or surging at low rpm contant/ even throttle?

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