The controller bad? Posible but rather unusual.
you can also get them from some 87+ sunbirds that have that little half door.
What makes you think it's bad? I'd replace the cheap crap light switch before doing the controller.
There's ways to test it more and I doubt they've been done. Few shops actually know much about any car's electrical system let alone an older car.
first, turn the knobs on top of the motors and wind them loose a couple turns. then hit the headlight switch. If the motors are binding to tightly when they close the lights then the controller will shut them off instead of risking damage to the motors.
If that still doesn't move them, pull the switch out and unplug it. Jumper the terminal with the red wire to the terminal with the yellow wire. That's up. Down is red to white.
If that doesn't work then there could be problems with power or ground wires to the module. The module gets power from 2 fusible links. You'd have to kill both of them to have no motors at all. (One power feed goes to each motor. The module gets power as long as either power feed is good. You'll just have one functional motor.)
It's grounded to points G101 and G102. These are suposed to be on the fenders below each headlight. They are easy targets for corrosion.
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11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.