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SMOOOTHGT!! A body work question for ya! by Doni Hagan
Started on: 08-31-2001 12:13 AM
Replies: 3
Last post by: Doni Hagan on 08-31-2001 07:24 PM
Doni Hagan
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Report this Post08-31-2001 12:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Doni HaganSend a Private Message to Doni HaganDirect Link to This Post
I want to get rid of the seam between the REAR clip and roof panel. I tried filling it with fiberglass and epoxy but a hairline crack has appeared that I can't get rid of.
No matter what I put on it now, the crack comes back. I gonna do a fake "targa" look on the top anyway but would like to know what I did wrong.

Any ideas? Thanks.
I just noticed a typo. I said FRONT clip...I meant REAR clip. It probably makes more sense now.

[This message has been edited by Doni Hagan (edited 08-31-2001).]

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BlackDragon
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Report this Post08-31-2001 12:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackDragonSend a Private Message to BlackDragonDirect Link to This Post
i have a question too, do the sail panel scoops do anything or do they just look cool?

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im looking for a inexpensive black standard fastback. does not have to run. does not have to look good. only the mid section needs to be dent free. the fenders,bumpers, dont have to be in good cond. faded paint is fine. anyone who has info, email me. grey interior would be nice but beggars cant be choosers

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bad911
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Report this Post08-31-2001 12:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bad911Send a Private Message to bad911Direct Link to This Post
Not trying to steal Smooth's thunder, I'm a fan of his work, and not sure where you're describing but most fiberglass failed repairs are from undone prep. You're fighting a stress-riser and it takes some thought from virtually an engineering standpoint and some additional prep to overcome it. In a nutshell "spread out the load". And prep, prep, prep.

On a flat panel, the parent material should be ground back in a wide, shallow vee, I mean WIDE... rule of thumb is 10X the thickness of the panel, more if it's a large piece. Where possible, for max strength you can go half-way thru on one side, grinding back and make your repair and then repeat on the other side.

Where you have to tie-in a radius that's too small for the cloth to easily conform to, as next to a moulding recess, one trick is to cut cloth diagonally in 1/8" hacks to create a heap of short fibers. [Carefull, you now have an army of miniature porcupines that love skin, and for God's sake don't breathe them.] Mix in your ready-to-go epoxy to the consistancy of peanut butter to fill the spot. [Be careful mixing so not to get air whipped in.] After setting, smooth & roughen and your next layer of cloth will have a nice wide bite. Or cut out the recess entirely, rig up a temporary backing and flat-panel it.

In *any* case, the surface has to be *roughened and clean* for the material to get a good bite.

Don't know how SmoothGT did his cool deal, hope he'll reveal some of his secrets. [Way to go Smooth, I always thought the beltline was too busy-looking.] Good luck.

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Doni Hagan
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Report this Post08-31-2001 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Doni HaganSend a Private Message to Doni HaganDirect Link to This Post
^^^
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