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Tourque specs for spindle nut on 85? by sparks
Started on: 07-21-2001 06:02 PM
Replies: 13
Last post by: Will on 07-22-2001 03:25 PM
sparks
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Report this Post07-21-2001 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sparksClick Here to visit sparks's HomePageSend a Private Message to sparksDirect Link to This Post
Subject pretty much says it all.

Anybody know? All I found when I searched was lower ball joint specs.

thanks

Adam

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Report this Post07-21-2001 06:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mach10Send a Private Message to Mach10Direct Link to This Post
20lb-inches, then back off 1/2 turn? That's what my book said...
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starfighter007@msn.com
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Report this Post07-21-2001 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for starfighter007@msn.comSend a Private Message to starfighter007@msn.comDirect Link to This Post
I dont think that there are any torque specs for the spindle nuts.you put the nut on hand tight till it starts to push the rotor on the spindle and you spin the rotor and tighten the nut with a pair of channel lock pliers gently tightningto get the slop out of the bearingsthen you look for the hole for the cotter pin you will back the nut off to line the slot up with the hole never ,I mean never tighten the nut to find the hole,you always back the nut out.hope this helps you .
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sparks
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Report this Post07-21-2001 07:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sparksClick Here to visit sparks's HomePageSend a Private Message to sparksDirect Link to This Post
Thanks guys!

I'll try the 20 first, if there's still slop I'll do it the Volkswagen way. Tighten until there's a slight drag then back off to find a hole for the cotter pin.

Adam

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Indiana_resto_guy
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Report this Post07-21-2001 09:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Indiana_resto_guySend a Private Message to Indiana_resto_guyDirect Link to This Post
20inlbs?

Starfighter is correct!

20inlbs?

Don't mind me, I'm still scratching my head on that one.

20inlbs?

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Will
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Report this Post07-21-2001 09:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
The real way, which you would know if you had a service manual, is to tighten until the hub assembly has 0.005" endplay.

For those of us too lazy to get out and set up or indicators, tighten the nut heavily with channel locks and spin the hub a few time to seat the bearings, then back the nut off until it is just finger tight, tighten 1/2 - 1 flat (30-60 degrees), then put the pin through.

Overtightening bearings will wear them out fast.

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sparks
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Report this Post07-21-2001 11:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sparksClick Here to visit sparks's HomePageSend a Private Message to sparksDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the sarcasm with the information Will. Yes, I don't have a FSM yet. I haven't been able to pick that up yet.

I'm sorry to trouble those of you that do for something as trivial as this.

I'll be sure and back it off a bit more tomorrow 'till it's finger tight.

------------------

Adam Sparks

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Will
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Report this Post07-22-2001 10:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by sparks:
Thanks for the sarcasm with the information Will. Yes, I don't have a FSM yet. I haven't been able to pick that up yet.

Sorry about that. I guess I should have put a in there somewhere.

It's not trivial. Most people don't know the first thing about wheel bearings. It's good that you're getting that far into it.

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Will
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Report this Post07-22-2001 10:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post

Will

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quote
Originally posted by Will:
The real way, which you would know if you had a service manual, is to tighten until the hub assembly has 0.005" endplay.

For those of us too lazy to get out and set up or indicators, tighten the nut heavily with channel locks and spin the hub a few time to seat the bearings, then back the nut off until it is just finger tight, tighten 1/2 - 1 flat (30-60 degrees), then put the pin through.

Overtightening bearings will wear them out fast.

Don't forget to tune by play, too. If the wheel has too much angular play (3-9 o'clock, or 12-6 o'clock check) for your liking, then tighten the adjuster nut another 1/2 flat.

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Mach10
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Report this Post07-22-2001 01:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mach10Send a Private Message to Mach10Direct Link to This Post
I'm just quoting my Chilton... That's what it said, I'm sure of it.

*Sulk*
Don't hafta be so meeeeeeaaaan *sniff*
*Sulk*

I'll look it up when I get home, and copy it word for word...

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sparks
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Report this Post07-22-2001 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sparksClick Here to visit sparks's HomePageSend a Private Message to sparksDirect Link to This Post
Hookey-dookey Will!

I've been this far into several Willys Jeeps and my wife's VW Bug, just my first time working on the Fiero's wheel bearings. Drives more smoothly now. Old bearings were starting to get dry, not too bad but on their way.

Everything seems real tight now. I put stainless brake lines and vented rotors on while I was at it.

Now to do the rears...

------------------

Adam Sparks

[This message has been edited by sparks (edited 07-22-2001).]

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Will
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Report this Post07-22-2001 03:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
You'll find this out soon enough, but the rear bearings are non-adjustable cartridge style.
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sparks
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Report this Post07-22-2001 03:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sparksClick Here to visit sparks's HomePageSend a Private Message to sparksDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:
You'll find this out soon enough, but the rear bearings are non-adjustable cartridge style.

Which means they're sealed?

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Adam Sparks

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Will
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Report this Post07-22-2001 03:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
yup
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