I put my '86SE 2.8 4-speed down for new engine and tranny mounts, along with new water-pump and to repair coolant tube. While removing driver side rear wheel, I snapped a wheel stud. To replace it I had to remove caliper and rotor. I have put everything back together and am still attempting to put that damn caliper back on. This is my second time under a pre-'88 Fiero and I cannot figure out for the life of me why rotor won't slip between the pads, or if I am even putting the setup back together properly. My Haynes says to use a C-clamp on the pre-'88 calpipers to compress the piston, but this caliper will not compress. I finally pulled out my trusty sledge and went to town on the thing(releasing two hours of pent up rage), still didn't get the damn thing back on.
the front ones push in with a C clamp, the rear ones dont because of the parking brake stuff inside it.
when you put the new caliper on torque the hose connection bolt on with a torque wrench - 15 ft lbs max - another OakWrap potential disaster: if you torque it too much it will strip right out.
and you will need a torx 40 to get the parking brake bracket off the old one.
Damn Haynes books, absolutely good for nothing. I'm pretty sure I killed it too. I heard a slight pop while I was really cranking on the clamp(I didn't care at that point), and I think the sledge probably finished it off. I figure I will learn how to mount the caliper before I try out a spare that came with the car and kill it too. So, they do need to be turned in, just like my '88 then. Will try that.
dont play with the ebrake lever either - if you move it then you will have to screw the piston back in - and its not easy to turn BTW - Pontaic used a special tool.
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04:49 PM
drednot Member
Posts: 172 From: ElkinsPark, PA USA Registered: Mar 2001
Well, I turned the piston, and the thing twiested all the way to the end of its travel. I tried both directions, made no difference, it never twisted in, only out.
The e-brake has never worked. I noticed both lever return springs are missing, and neither cable end is attached, must be why.
One last time out to the garage to piddle with this thing again. I dropped the entire cradle this weekend, and here I am getting hung up on a caliper...
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05:28 PM
Rodrv6 Member
Posts: 1910 From: Ball Ground, Ga. Registered: Nov 1999
If you remove the e-brake lever from the back of the caliper you can push the piston back in. If you do, you'll see the shaft (that the e-brake lever mounts on) turn backwards as the piston is pushed in. Once the piston is bottomed out, carefully install the lever back onto the shaft. Try not to turn the shaft while installing the lever as that will either push the piston back out or the shaft may start to retract into the caliper. It's not really as hard as it sounds, just take your time.
------------------ Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga. 84 SE, 330,000 miles and counting, 88 GT, not nearly as many miles :)
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05:32 PM
rockcrawl Member
Posts: 2528 From: Lehigh Valley, PA Registered: Jul 2000
I'm with Rodrv6 on this one. I've tried the fancy tools to turn in the rear pistons, but it is always easier to just remove the park lever. You really should bleed the brakes after removing the lever, but often you can get away without.
You DON'T turn the pistons on 84-87 rear calipers. The correct method is in Haynes and my cave. GM didn't build these like later style rear calipers. Rotating these can damage them.
I have to disagree with the c-clamp method. I have replaced rear pads on every fiero that I have ever owned. (ok..so Ive only owned 5) I have used the turning method and it has worked for me. Remember to always turn in the direction to the front of the car. I also have found to get them started turning, turn towards the back of the car first, then to the front. Takes some patience, but works...... The tool only costs about $10 at Checker.....
I have to dis-agree with the "twisting method." Didn't work for me. I was only able to use a C-clamp to retract the rear caliper piston on mine. Twisting only extended the piston.
Plus, there are very few exceptions to any of Ogre's wisdom.
wow ,the way it sounds ,I am not looking forward to changing the brakes on my 84.On the other cars I have owned I always took the the brake master cylinder cover off to relieve pressure to compress caliper.I guess i will find out when the time comes about this situation.I am damn sure glad this forum exist.I check in regulary to learn more about my car.This is great.
Every document GM has produced recomends the clamp method for the old style caliper. It's the method I always use. (Taking the spring off makes it easier to get the bottom bolt out too.)
Taking off the brake lever only takes a couple minutes. Plus it lets you check to see if the screw seal is starting to leak and lets you clean & grease the lever. (A thin film on the side facing the caliper to prevent corrosion...) Make sure you don't over tighten the lever when you put it back on. I think the spec is about 25-30FP for that nut.
When compressing the calipers... try to open the bleeders if possible. That prevents pushing trash back up into the MC. If you crap up the check valve in the MC, you'll end up with rear brake problems.
A big reason for not rotating the piston is that the end of the counter spring can dig the AL caliper shell. You may retract the piston but you can also cut loose bits of AL that can damage seals in the caliper and piston. If the seal in the piston (Yes, inside the piston.) fails then the piston module must be replaced. you can't fix that seal.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-27-2001).]
I have used the turning method and it has worked for me. Remember to always turn in the direction to the front of the car. I also have found to get them started turning, turn towards the back of the car first, then to the front. Takes some patience, but works......
