I agree with Jay. idle should read about 1000 or under on tach-if tach is accurate. My wifes v6 idled too high because of a seized IAC and coolant temp sensor reading 15 deg cooler. could be a vacume leak. could be inaccurate gauge.
On the V6 if the warm idle is more than 75 rpm over the correct idle speed for more than 45 seconds (on the 4 cyl its 50 rpm for 30 secs) you're *supposed* to see a code 35.
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12:57 AM
Jay Member
Posts: 1107 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: May 2000
LarryB that's about what we said 900 to 950, but unfortunately the gauges are not as exact as taking a reading off of the wire. So the rpm could be correct thus not setting off a code but the gauge is showing a lower or higher reading.
------------------ Jay 1986 Northstar GT www.members.home.net/jaygrande
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06:05 PM
spideyfoot Member
Posts: 214 From: Murfreesboro, TN USA Registered: Apr 2001
Doctors say theres a fine line between sanity and insanity, I guess about the same as the difference between taking the rpm reading off the wire or the tach. The reading was off the tach BTW.
This all started a week ago when I replaced my alternator. Can't remember if the idle went up immediately or shortly after the alt replace. I did replace the vac line which feeds into the back of the EGR solenoid(sp). Checked vac on the solenoid to EGR valve line (the small one that goes under the red intake assembly), it was ok. Did the Haynes vac test on the EGR valve itself and couldn't get it to draw down the engine like it should. Tried to get the EGR valve off to clean and couln't get the nuts off. Tapped the EGR valve with small hammer, all to no avail.
Started the car a day later and idle is back to normal. Somebody either help me or come and blow my car up.
David! put the hammer down! set it down nicely on the floor and step back - nobody has to get hurt here (c:
You should be able to put a clean vacuum line on the egr valve and put enough vacuum on it with the engine running to hear the idle speed change. If nothing happens that egr valve has failed, and you cant really tell if its failed open or closed.
if the EGR valve has nuts on studs get a steel chisel and split them open from the side, then clean the threads up good and use antiseize compound with new replacement nuts.
that is the reason studs are used instead of bolts in many applications. Its much safer to split a rusted nut off with a chisel than to try and wrench it off - if it was a bolt then there is nothing you can do but soak it in wd40, then it snaps off anyway - and you end up with the easyouts and drills and taps.
