I am going to do the rear brake pads, hopfully tonight. I read on the net that I need a special tool to turn the piston in the brake caliper to bottem it or somthing. I look at Advance Auto, NAPA, and CarQuest and no one knows about, or has what I need. Whats the deal? Where do I get it? Do I really need it, or is there some way to get by without it? Thanks

Car Quest has it. If they have a rack with tools, it should be on that. Look for a square block with 3/8" drive holes on all sides with little tabs on each flat. I don't recall the part # or what they call it. If you want me to look aand see that stuff, get baack with me A.S.A.P. and I'll look tommorrow for you!

All those places should have had it. I think its just called a rear caliper brake tool, it is gold and square looking. It was like $15.00.

Chris

------------------
Check out my site at: www.customdynamix.com
2 '87 GT Projects

If you have a pre- '88, you can use a large C-clamp to retract the caliper. Go to the link to Ogre's cave and look for the article on brakes. The details are all there.

quote Originally posted by Mark: If you have a pre- '88, you can use a large C-clamp to retract the caliper. Go to the link to Ogre's cave and look for the article on brakes. The details are all there.

WRONG...
You need the tool for the REAR calipers...
UNLESS you change them out, like I did with 89 Grand Am front calipers and rotors, then the C-clamp will work...
crash...

Fierowrecker, I've always used the C-clamp method. Works fine for me. Of course, you MUST remove the handbrake lever and you MUST use something like a socket over the handbrake adjust bolt to allow it to rotate freely as the piston is pushed back in.

In Ogre's article, he states that GM doesn't recommend rotating the piston on pre-'88s. Hmmm.

Perhaps I should remove the e brake lever then and go about it like that. I know NAPA and Advance dont have it, I asked. They don't even know what Im talking about. (Did I mention I hate living in the town of HickVill, Nebraska) Car Quest was so busy I didn't ask, but I didn't see anything like it on their shelves. I might work with it tonight and see what happenes. How do you remove the ebrake handle, or will it be obvious once the rims are off and all? Thanks

I'm not sure on the e-brake, I'd have to look it up and I left my book in the other car.

From the sound of it, I wouldn't take it in to a mechanic around there. Sounds like the kind of guys with the "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" philosophy.

------------------
85 GT (to be modified...)
--Um, no the paint isn't oxidized, that's the ultra-rare Whirlpool White textured finish... yeah.
89 Lincoln Town Car (has Fiero Envy)
--Hey! Can I have an anti-sway bar too?

Yeah, that and "That looks like an expensive car, I bet we could screw him outta $240 just to change front brake pads!" Ture story

Removing the handbrake level is pretty simple. First remove the cable frome the "groove", then the nut (15 or 17 mm, I think). Under the handbrake lever are two washers (actually one is a seal the other an anti-friction washer). Don't loose them! I think GM or Haynes or someone recommends changing the seal washer every time you remove the handbrake lever.

Don't rotate the handbrake bolt! Squeezing the caliper back in the cylinder will cause the bolt to turn on its own.

If you do rebuild the calipers, you can rotate the handbrake actuator (bolt) to push the piston out of the cylinder.

Best bet is to stare at the pictures in the Haynes manual for a while if you've never done this before.

While we're on the topic, what can you use to clean and lube the actuator screw, and can it be done w/out removing the calipers off of the car? mine are kinda stiff running (so stiff i can't pull up on the handle even) and i need to get them working properly for an insurance inspection.

Correct... GM does not recomend rotating the pistons in the rear caliper on the 84-87 cars. After disecting one I see why. there is a large spring you are fighting. That spring could be damaged or it could chew the caliper shell leaving loose AL particles that could bind the caliper.

The proper method is in my cave and most service books. (I also show where you grease the bracket when changing pads.)

AS for lubricant on the actuator screw area.... the normal Silicone or synthetic brake greases are the only thing you should use. Never use petrol lubes on brake parts. I use a synthetic grease from Permatex now. #20355. On the screw you would put a film on the seal, the arm facing the caliper and the caliper shell to prevent corosion that can bind the lever. (AL swells considerably when it becomes AL oxide.)

I have still put off ording that kit from the Fiero Store. Would a local place like Advance Auto or NAPA have a rear caliper rebuild kit? Is it about the same as the Fiero store? I would like to have it as quick as possible, so I would like to find it locally. Thanks

Go to this site. This was the GM recall. You will find everthing you need to know. Get the rebuild kit from GM, I don't think it is as high as the fiero store. Part # 18019027
Print these pages and you should be able to do a perfect job. http://www.michiganfieroclub.org/86-c-16.htm

Umm. Mines an Auto tranny, does that still apply to me? Oh well, Im just glad I found out I can get a rebuild kit at GM. thanks

the recall for the brakes does not apply to the automatic transmission cars. However you can still use the same parts to rebuild them.

It is my belief the recall was on the man tranny cars because GM and NHTSA figured that man trans cars would use the hand brake more. Thus wearing the parts faster than Auto trans owners.

Well, its 11 o'clock and Iv started taking the brakes off. I can't get the caliper mount bolts, or ebrake cable bracket off without a Torx #50 driver right? Does Wal-Mart have em? I might just have to drive in to my friendly neighborhood walmart tonight, darn!

Sean,

Here is a link to the tool you are looking for for the rear caliper. I would just about bet that your Advance Auto, NAPA, or CarQuest has one.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=65438

Mike

mbramble,

This tool you refer to, rotates the piston and like ogre said you do not want to rotate the piston. If you do not have a piston tool, you can use a wooden dowell or plastic and push the piston but make sure you push it in straight and don't let it **** to one side. you also can use your fingers if you will be real carefull.

Ok, I have the caliper off and everything and am getting ready to disassemble. Now, I have another problem. The bolt that holds the brake line onto the caliper is stripped out (not the bolt, the threads in the caliper). Anyway, how should I repair this? I have some stuff I use on lawn mower engines all the time. You mix a couple compounds together, apply it to the threads in the bolt hole, put this "release agent" stuff on the bolt and screw it into the hole. Let it setup for a couple hours and remove the bolt, hole it good as new. It really works good, but I think this situation might be a little different. Should I try this stuff? Do they make a kit where I can drill out the hole and insert a new threaded sleeve? Take it to NAPA and let them fix it? Whadda ya think? Thanks

[This message has been edited by Seanh (edited 04-22-2001).]

time for a rebuilt caliper.

It may be posible to repair with a helicoil but I wouldn't do to mine.