if there broken off, just use a hammer and center punch to knock them in. they go in from the backside. you can buy new studs at NAPA or autoparts store. Put the new one in from the back and put a stack of washers over it with a lug nut turned backwards and tighten it to pull the new stud in untill the flange on back is seated. After you drive the car maybe 50 miles, recheck to make sure there still tite. we used to replace them all on our race car every couple of weeks for preventative maintance.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-05-2001).]
correct me if I'm wrong I don't think that the holes are threaded they are just grooved to hold the stud bolts on. I've broken a bunch of these on my cavalier and replaced them. I'm pretty sure that the fiero is the same.
Ummmm-you will have to remove the disc from the hub. I'm sure there is no way to get behind there to install the new stud with the brake disc in place. It's not a hard thing to do.
------------------ Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga. 84 SE, 330,000 miles and counting, 88 GT, not nearly as many miles :)
Yeah you guys are right; I took another look at it after I got back from Napa. I’m so glad that the studs were only about $2 each.
Incidentally I got cough up in rush hour traffic, but that's ok since I met another fiero person. She had a blue Formula with a Ferrari F355 nose kit. She said it was actually her fiancés toy, who happens to have 11 fiero's, wow!
Thanks again Fiero People!!!
P.S. So far those who have replied have handles that start with the letter R. Kinda strange huh?
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05:35 PM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
All is well now, I have replaced the two broken studs. I actually found out that my Haynes manual had a section on broken studs. The hardest part was going around town and looking for the right tools. I pretty much followed what rogergarrison said to the tee, with out any problems. For those of you who are like me and whack their fingers every time they swing a hammer, use a c-clamp and a socket to press out the broken studs, as mentioned in the Haynes manual. The only other complication I ran into was the torque sequence procedure of the center hub nut. The Haynes manual says to use 74ft-lbs to press in the bearings and then 200ft-lbs with the wheel back on, while on the ground. Well I wasn’t sure if the center or my wheels popped out, they probably do, but I didn’t want to fiddle with it so I just used the spare tire, since it has a nice fat hole in the center to access the hub nut.
Once again thanks everyone!
[This message has been edited by Phantom Rage (edited 04-09-2001).]