I recently did this fix to both of my GT's and have had great luck with them both. I have read that several users have had problems (not working) and I wanted to share my observations.

The instructions are available on the Michigan Fiero Club website. There is a WEB version and an Adobe Acrobat version with a slightly different diagram. This might be causing some of the problems.

When splicing the ignition switch harness wire to the cluster harness, the web diagram says to use pin #13 while the Acrobat picture shows terminal #17. The written instructions in the Acrobat version say to look for the dark green wire in the cluster harness, whcih might be #13. This is critical for the mod to work correctly. <<<<<<

This is a very worthwhile mod to do IMO. The temp needle on my maroon GT had hit the stop so many times that it read at about 100F when it was really at 190. The needle had slipped on the shaft of the gauge.

The temp needle on my blue GT would almost always stick and I would have to bang on the top of the dash to unstick it. This worked until last week when the tach needle fell off when I banged the top of the cluster. I had a good laugh over it, and figured it was time to make the fix! Everything is working well now except I didn't get the tach needle back on right. I will be disassembling the dash one more time to get it right tommorrow.

The wiring change will take an hour or 2 but is worth it in the long run. Also it is a no cost upgrade.

WEB instructions are on the Michigan Fiero Club website at http://www.michiganfieroclub.org/tempgauge/tempgauge.htm

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Bob
2 - 87 GT's
85 SE 4 cyl

[This message has been edited by Bob Englert (edited 03-30-2001).]

I forget which version of the fix I used... Michigan has some good articles but they need to check over them better. This isn't the first time I've heard of or seen problems with one. Their instructions about the chime box are also a bit of a mess.

The temp wiring change can be done a couple diferant ways.... I did mine with no cutting and one tap. The tap can be made with no cutting or stripping. You do have to drop the column down so you can reach the ignition switch but that's not a big deal. Once the connector is off the switch you just release the terminal from the shell with a paper clip. I taped over the gauge terminal and used a spare terminal from a junk car to fix the lamp test for the light. To tap the light wire I released the terminal from the shell on the dash and twitsted the new wire on it. Once it's back the the shell the wire can't go any where or short. (You only need to strip and twist about 3/8 inch of wire.)

Either way takes about the same amount of time. I did mine in the park over a lunch break.

It doesn't matter which way it's done but it needs to be done. At the very least people should get the gauge off the ignition switch to stop it banging. I don't recomend it but the lamp test can be skipped if desired.