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Broken dash repair...not teasing this time! by Nashco
Started on: 03-22-2001 04:23 AM
Replies: 12
Last post by: Nashco on 04-21-2001 12:34 AM
Nashco
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Report this Post03-22-2001 04:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashcoClick Here to visit Nashco's HomePageSend a Private Message to NashcoDirect Link to This Post
This is specifically for everyone who was trying to find out more on repairing broken dashes, which many of us were trying to find out the other day. I'm sure this applies to a ton of us though! I did a little research and found out a method that sounds like it will work great! I was considering hard epoxy, but I'm feeling much better about this idea. If any of you have tried this, let the list know if it worked well. If you have tried something different, let us know if it worked or not. Remember, the more knowledge we can share to improve these cars, the better the image of the fiero will be to the general public

Here goes:

1. First get a NAPA Flex Bumper Repair Kit #765-1540. This should be available at your local NAPA store. If not you can probably try to contact someone on the list who does have it available in their area, someone will probably be able to help you get it with a little cash and sweet talk. (From notice of a current trend, you women on the list shouldn't have any trouble getting help )

2. Remove the entire dash skin from the car. This shouldn't take very long.

3. Remove the vents and clean the area with soap and water. Let it dry completely. While waiting for the dash to completely dry, prepare an area that is clean and free of any obstructions. It may be a good idea to lay some paper or plastic to avoid ruining the counter or floor if you're not in your shop. Remember to read the instructions for the epoxy thoroughly during this time, and note the temperature and time necessary for the epoxy to set.

4. Wipe the dash down with a good quality laquer thinner, easily available at any local hardware store or body shop supply store.

5. Mix the two part NAPA repair epoxy with the stir sticks provided. It will turn light blue. You won't be able to take all day with this step, but you do want to make sure the epoxy is thoroughly mixed.

6. This is where the mess may start. You will be applying the epoxy to the dash, and the tool of choice will depend on who is performing the maneuver. The main objective is to fill the entire cracked area with epoxy, ensuring that no dirt, loose foam, or air bubbles are present. The mixture is somewhat runny so it will require a little manipulation until it sets. This step is only to fill the entire area with epoxy. Don't worry about making the area look good, as you will be fixing it later. The most important part is to mix the epoxy well, avoid spilling it on anything else, and apply the epoxy into any cracks or crevices well. It's alright if it looks like a bunch of mountain peaks.

7. After the mix has hardened, you can use a rough sand paper to quickly sand down the "mountain peaks" and get a basic shape. Once you have a basic shape, use a fine sand paper to slowly and gently get the desired shape. If you're having a hard time visualizing what the area should look like, just reference the other side, or other parts of the dash to compare. You may have to get creative with sanding tools and "sculpting" equipment. A little artistic vision and creativity begins to come into play. Take your time with this step, trying to get the shape as close to original as possible. Don't worry if you mess up, or new cracks develop during this stage. You can always clean the area again, mix more epoxy, and go through the process again.

8. If you are creative, patient, and picky you can use a scribe or pick to sketch in some "grainy" texture to recreate the stock look. This may seem a waste of time to some, but for those trying to get a near-perfect dash, this isn't too much to ask. The person who I inquired about this had done their dash without sketching a texture and stated that it's difficult to tell the difference.

9. If necessary, repeat these steps for other areas damaged, until the dash is completely repaired.

10. Now that you have a pristine-in-form dash, you will need to remedy the color differences. It is recommended to recolor the entire dash, as it will be near impossible to match new paint with very old plastic.

Congratulations! After these steps you should have a fresh appearing dash, and will be able to install it. For some of us, this fresh paint may force us to consider redoing other parts of the interior to match in color It's not so bad though, once you complete all of this, you'll be so happy you did it, and your interior will be fantastic looking!

There will be more to come on painting the dash, as I have yet to find out any specifics about that. I hope this is as helpful for all of you as it is for me. I can't wait to get my dash off and try this out... *daydreaming of like-new interior*

Thanks for your suggestions and comments everyone!

Bryce
88 GT

P.S. In prediction of further questions, I found a few related posts to this. Good luck!

Dash Removal
Broken Dash Corners
Interior Paint Choice and Location
More Paint Info
More Paint Info...Again

[This message has been edited by Nashco (edited 03-22-2001).]

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FieroJoe
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Report this Post03-22-2001 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJoeSend a Private Message to FieroJoeDirect Link to This Post
That sounds like a good way to do it, I may have to try it if I feel ambitious enough.

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87 Coupe 5sp. - big resto in progress

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Cozmo
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Report this Post03-22-2001 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CozmoSend a Private Message to CozmoDirect Link to This Post
Excellent description and links. Good job! We need more members sharing their experience...
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Nashco
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Report this Post03-23-2001 01:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashcoClick Here to visit Nashco's HomePageSend a Private Message to NashcoDirect Link to This Post
Nobody's tried this method, or others, and wants to share their experience? I was hoping for some feedback from anybody who's tried... Even though this sounds like a great method, there may always be better alternatives

Bryce
88 GT

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GoCartGuy
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Report this Post03-23-2001 09:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GoCartGuySend a Private Message to GoCartGuyDirect Link to This Post
Nashco,

Gonna try it next weekend, got 4 days off, 21st birthday and all, so I figure I'll sit around drinking and workin on my interior. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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'85 GT "The GoCart"

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Nashco
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Report this Post04-07-2001 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NashcoClick Here to visit Nashco's HomePageSend a Private Message to NashcoDirect Link to This Post
Anybody got a chance to try this yet, or still holding out on experience info? I want to do it soon, and I was hoping there would be some feedback before I got to it.

Thanks

Bryce
88 GT

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Taijiguy
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Report this Post04-08-2001 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TaijiguySend a Private Message to TaijiguyDirect Link to This Post
Auto Zone also sells that fexible repair stuff. It comes with little mixing tubs, and some cloth screen for large areas. I have the better part of a kit. (no mixing tubs or paddles) I'm willing to send it on to someone who needs it, no cost. (ala DXR_DAD style)If anyone has a need for this kit, email me.
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Nashco
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Report this Post04-19-2001 01:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashcoClick Here to visit Nashco's HomePageSend a Private Message to NashcoDirect Link to This Post
I got this kit from Taijiguy a few days ago, but haven't had my car to try it out on yet. I'll keep everyone updated when I try it and let you know how it worked for me.

Bryce
88 GT

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GoCartGuy
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Report this Post04-19-2001 02:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GoCartGuySend a Private Message to GoCartGuyDirect Link to This Post
Ok, did the interior including fixing the dash corner. I used Napa's Flex bumper repair kit and it worked great. Took two applications and some offerings to the Dremel God but it came out nice, not perfect but hey it was my first try.

Two tidbits for all of you doing it. First if you've got a big chunk missing...I did... do a little back filling with some spray foam insulation, just squirt a bit on a piece of cardboard and use a paddle or your finger to apply it to the spot, you can cut it down real easy once its set. Second, since the stuff flows a bit you've got to give it some support. I had two left over bits of plexi glass from a different project and I just clamped them in place for the top and bottom. After that just shape, paint, and it'll pass nicely.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1644181&a=12582313&f=0&vt=vp

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Report this Post04-19-2001 09:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for skitimeSend a Private Message to skitimeDirect Link to This Post
Anyone try this stuff. The even have colors I need like beechwood.
http://www.leatherrepairkits.com/general_motors_color_chart.htm

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Report this Post04-19-2001 01:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84BillClick Here to visit 84Bill's HomePageSend a Private Message to 84BillDirect Link to This Post
I was pondering this while sitting in my 84 SE soaking up the warm sun looking at my tatterd lower right dash and a thaught occured to me. Why not take a plaser cast of the upper left corner, looks to be the same geometry and goop the bumper repair stuff into the cast and press it into the ragged lower right corner and let her set. This way you have both the shape and texture of the origonal material.

I don't know where I come up with this stuff....

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 04-19-2001).]

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Report this Post04-19-2001 11:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jch82Send a Private Message to jch82Direct Link to This Post
I just repaired the corner of my dash. I used 3M flexible bumper repair. It was very easy to do. I wiped the area down with some cleaner, then mixed the two part epoxy. Applied the epoxy to the dash and waited an hour or so, then sanded it down with 80grit. Applied some more epxy to spots that I missed and re-sanded it with 80grit.

The corner is now primed and tomorrow I am hopefully going to sand it with 120-220grit and then respray the whole dash....

My only problem with the repair is that when you get really close, it is smooth and the rest of the dash has a grain to it.

I will admit that it looks a lot better than a dash with a crack in it. The smoothness isn't even noticeable from a few feet away....

Might be able to get some close up pics of the corner when I get it finished and I will get them posted if anyone would like to see them.

Josh

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Yeah, my girlfriend takes collect calls from the road
And it doesn't seem to matter that I'm lacking in the bulge
She laughs at my dumb jokes when no one does
She brings me mexican food from Sombrero's just because
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Nashco
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Report this Post04-21-2001 12:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for NashcoClick Here to visit Nashco's HomePageSend a Private Message to NashcoDirect Link to This Post
Hey, feedback, excellent! I was thinking this was a lost cause, and I was about to give it a shot on my own. Thanks for the info guys, keep 'em coming. Pics would be great if you have them. Anybody attempt making a textured look yet? I'm thinking of using a dentist-style pick and playing with it for a while on the weekend. I get bored...

Bryce
88 GT

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