Ok, I just finished the clutch swap on my car last weekend. About a day after I got the car back on the road, I noticed that the radio (aftermarket) was loosing station pre-sets and clock time when I shut off the car. This didn't start immediately after the repair, but about 1 day later. Today I also noticed my horn doesn't work, but when I hit the button, the under dash lights flash and I hear a buzzing that sounds like a relay clicking on and off rapidly (no, it doesn't sound like a short or arc'ing circuit). Apparently, something got pinched or pulled when we put the cradle back up. I was hoping someone could point me in the general area of the problem. Perhaps this has happened to someone else? I'd hate to have to start diagnosing the electrical system from scratch. Any pointers would be helpful. Also, the power windows, locks, HVAC, lights, etc. all work ok.

All radios need 2 12+ feeds. One is ignition controlled (only hot when in run or ACC), that is what actually turns your radio on, and the other needs to be from the battery. (Hot at all times) so somehow, your radio isnt getting the +12v from the battery, and so it looses the power to keep the presets.

As for the lights flashing when the horn button is pushed, just first try checking all fuses, becuase the floating ground system that fieros have can cause backfeeds when a fuse is blown.

So maybe just one blown fuse could do all of that.

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AIM: Snowboarder0311
87 Coupe 5sp. - big resto in progress

Thanks! I'll check that tonight. Floating ground, huh? See, I woudn't have thought a blown fuse might cause these problems.

You nailed it on the head - blown 20-amp fuse for the horn/accessory circuit.

Fuse is replaced - works fine so far... now then, what caused it to blow in the first place? Could it have been blown by reconnecting the battery while the ground strap from the engine block to the right trunk hinge was left unconnected (but reconnected before the car was driven or started)?

Just curious...

Hey John, next time we get together I would like to hear how the clutch swap went. Hoop has convinced me to replace the clutch on my maroon GT myself with some help from him. Might be able to get started in a few weeks.

This will be a long process for me with time constraints and the desire to really clean out the engine compartment and refinnish the cradle to remove the rust and leaking oil.

Would like to hear what worked well for you, what problems you encountered, and any special tools or techniques I will need to do this.

Thanks...

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Bob
2 - 87 GT's
85 SE 4 cyl

Well, Pat's the expert on the clutch job. My car was his 3rd clutch swap. It's not that bad of a job, it's just a BIG job. We did it with only standard hand tools - no air tools, nothing special. The only extra requirement was a 4' long "breaker bar" for 1 or 2 very stubborn bolts. I highly recommend soaking the exhaust bolts, or any others you can get to, with Liquid Wrench overnight. I got the exhaust off without problems or broken bolts. It's definately a 2 person job, though. It took about 8-10 hours to get the tranny out of the car (most of the time hunting for tools), but only about 5 to get it completely back together. We used the instructions on how to remove the transaxle that are on Ed Parks' website. I'm sure Pat and I will be glad to go over it in detail next time we get together.

[This message has been edited by Formula88 (edited 03-13-2001).]

Sure thing, Bob... I'll be glad to show you the notes we used and offer some tips... it's definitely do-able (and doing it yourself sure beats the heck out of paying a shop $1000 to do it... no, I'm not kidding...)

The only caveat is that I've only worked on '88 V-6's... mine (twice, on consecutive weekends, due to a supposedly new clutch disc that disintegrated when put to use) and John's. For those, we remove both rear suspension assemblies and drop the back of the cradle. For previous years, supposedly one is able to remove just the driver's side suspension and drop the cradle to the side. Sounds plausible, but since I haven't done that, I have no idea just *how* different the actual job will be. 4-cyl. vs. V-6 may not make too much difference, but the different suspension/cradle configuration will sure make things different. Easier? Harder? Can't tell ya for sure... dropping it to the side *sounds* easier, but I wouldn't know for sure until I had to do it...

I'm completely spoiled on the '88's though... if I find out, it will most likely be on someone else's car.

Yea, what he said. Also, if you're going with a stock replacement clutch, I'd suggest upping for the RAM. I got the RAM Heavy Duty (not racing) clutch, and it's smooth and very tight. Of course, it only has 200 miles on it, so longevity and feel after thorough break-in may chang things. But I'm happy so far. And it's only about $200, vs. about $150 for a stock replacement.

Yeah, as happy as John is with his clutch, I may end up doing my 4th clutch job this summer... to put a RAM clutch into mine... *sigh*

Depends on whether or not he's faster than me.