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2.5L Duke - - -> "Moderate Duty" - - -> Super Duty by LuckyTheyWereEverMade
Started on: 02-21-2001 02:42 AM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Oreif on 02-21-2001 06:43 PM
LuckyTheyWereEverMade
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Report this Post02-21-2001 02:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for LuckyTheyWereEverMadeClick Here to visit LuckyTheyWereEverMade's HomePageSend a Private Message to LuckyTheyWereEverMadeDirect Link to This Post
For those of you that are experts in modifying the duke, I am looking for your opinions on this one:

I found a 1988 Astro Van 2.5L duke engine at the local pick n' pull for $70. I plan to use this block for a "moderate duty" engine build.


* forged pistons (9:1 compression), rods, and crankshaft (4" stoke, 3L displacement)
* mildly modified roller-lifter camshaft
* roller rockers and lifters
* GM performance head
* metal timing gears
* Holley big bore TBI with port matched intake manifold
* MSD distributor and 6AL digital ignition
* Extrude-hone intake, head, and exhaust manifold
* high volume oil pump
* Hooker Tri-Y header
* aftermarket cat converter
* V6 exhaust from cat back
* 3 angle valve job, balancing, .030" overbore, and related machining

My car is a 1984 SC automatic so the goal is to have power peak just below 5,000 rpm. When I look at this build, I think it will be good for about 140 HP. I am not worried about the reliability as the Astro van block has is the same dimensionally as a super duty block (incudes webbing not found on fiero dukes for extra strength) and the crankshaft, pistons, and rods will be forged rather than the stock cast units. The camshaft will set power peak just below 5,000 rpms to suit the automatic transmission's needs.

Anybody done somthing like this before? Have parts to recommend? What parts should be avioded?

If all of this seems like it's comming from out of the blue, here are some web sites for reference:
http://fiero2m4.homestead.com/IronDuke.html
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/gmponheads.html
http://www.amotion.com/p4.html
http://www.extrudehone.com/

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mrossum
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Report this Post02-21-2001 09:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mrossumSend a Private Message to mrossumDirect Link to This Post
astro block has motor mount bosses in wrong spot. will take some serious modification skills to make it fit. the stock fiero block will be strong enough to hold together if you are not going to twist it any tighter than 5000 rpm. i might suggest ARP main studs as an added precaution.
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Oreif
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Report this Post02-21-2001 10:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
The van block won't work. Block is same size but different cast. Block would require machine work to make it fit in a Fiero.

As for parts, Vanderly Engineering still has some SD4 heads. You could get one of them but they are $$$$.

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Report this Post02-21-2001 02:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierosoundDirect Link to This Post
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LuckyTheyWereEverMade
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Report this Post02-21-2001 03:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LuckyTheyWereEverMadeClick Here to visit LuckyTheyWereEverMade's HomePageSend a Private Message to LuckyTheyWereEverMadeDirect Link to This Post
Oreif,

You posted a reply saying "the van block won't work. Block is same size but different cast. Block would require machine work to make it fit in a Fiero."

This leaves me in a conundrum. I trust your opinions as I am a big fan of your detailed and accurate answers to the questions posted on the Forum. But, I found a web site that says "the Vin E 2.5 liter truck motor was used in both Astro/Safari vans and the S-10/S-15 trucks. I think the later model 1991+ VIN A was only used in the pick-up trucks. The pick-up trucks have the starter on the right and the vans have it on the left (fiero side). Starter location can be changed."

Were you thinking of other problems, like the truck block would physically interfere with the TH-125 transmission?

I have not purchased the Astro engine yet. I have until Sunday to get it for $70. Then, the sale ends and the price doubles. The engine is just sitting in the van right now, the transmission and radiator have been removed already. A super duty engine block is about $2200, so I just can't see how the Astro block is not worth the effort. Before I read your reply, I was already thinking "spare no expense" as far as machine goes.

My duke automatic has 90K miles, rebuilt head, all new sensors and gaskets, and some modifications:
Accel coil, MSD ignition, deburred intake manifold, head, and exhaust manifold, a drilled airbox (2 1/4" hole through rain baffle), GT deckid vents, and 1988 Formula wheels with 205/60 15 tires


It runs strong and smooth, but when my best friend (300lbs+200lbs for me) rides in the car, climbing mountain roads leaves the car a little overwhelmed. I want it to be strong enough to climb hills without straining. To put numbers on my goal, 0 to 60 in 8 seconds would exceed my expectations.

The automatic is staying in the car, as it makes the heavy traffic around here bearable. But, I am thinking about installing/swapping in a 4T60 transimission swap at the same time.

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LuckyTheyWereEverMade
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Report this Post02-21-2001 03:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LuckyTheyWereEverMadeClick Here to visit LuckyTheyWereEverMade's HomePageSend a Private Message to LuckyTheyWereEverMadeDirect Link to This Post

LuckyTheyWereEverMade

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Member since Dec 2000
That article Fierosound posted talked about a "systems 3" EEPROM that re-calibrated the Map sensor for the lower intake vacuum of a suped-up Duke (super duty head on 2.5L short block).

Anybody know if Systems 3 is still in business? How might an EEPROM recalibrated for lower manifold vacuums be obtained?

Since I will be using an ECM compatible cam grind, I don't think I will need to burn a custom EEPROM, but it would be nice to know if any mass produced chips are available.

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fierospeeder
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Report this Post02-21-2001 04:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierospeederClick Here to visit fierospeeder's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierospeederDirect Link to This Post
I hope this works for you, because i would love to do the same swap.

I also go to junkyards and the 2.5 is in almost in 50% of chevy cars besides the 2.8 and 3.1 for the smaller cars the rest are v8s.

And a lot of the parts are interchangable.

Is the astro a front wheel drive? If it is than you might have a good chance of it matching. The s10s are rear wheel drive.

Get a tape measure and try to get the mounting holes on your fiero and write them down. Then see if they match with the engine on the van.

I would love to get 130 out of my 2.5 without doing major mods. The engines from my junkyard u pick a part are about 100 bucks for a complete so its perfect. Plus i got 4 more yards around me to get parts from. <drool>

good luck

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Oreif
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Report this Post02-21-2001 06:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
The van block has "feet" cast into the block to aid in mounting the block. The one side will interfere with the auto trans but not a manual trans. (same area as the 3.4L) just requires a slight grinding down. But the other side will effect the exhaust and motor mount.
I got your E-mail but I am at work and cannot reply until later.
Here is the info for
Vanderley Racing Engines
23525 Ashleigh Dr
Gulfport, MS
(228) 539-5454
Paul Vanderley is the owner/expert on SD4's and 2.5L dukes

They have a few SD4 heads, SD4 build-up parts, and some rods but no crankshafts. They also have a list of folks who have used SD4 engines for sale. Last year when I called there was a guy in Cleveland Ohio who had 3 engines for sale. 2 were street engines and the 3rd was full race.
The street engines were 2.7L 245hp and 285hp. the full race was 3.0L 475hp.
The guy wanted $5500 for the 245hp 2.7L and it had 20,000 miles on it. They can even help you locate SD parts if you want. You can get a stock 2.5L up to a 2.7L using the crank, rods, and head from an SD4 engine which will put you in the 160/170hp range without stressing the original block too much. (There was a guy in our club that did it)

If you want a "new" SD4 I think Kansas Racing Products bought the rights to cast SD4 parts. (see link)
http://www.gtsonline.com/krp/prod1.htm

Kansas Racing Products of Chapman, Kansas, together with a Kansas Technological Enterprise Corporation (KTEC) Applied Research Development Grant and in conjunction with Kansas State University has resurrected and modified the powerful Pontiac "Super Duty" cast-iron four-cylinder engine for GM, but also modified the block for application for Ford SVO and MOPAR.
The company received significant assistance from GM engineers and Paul VanderLey of VanderLey Racing Engines of Biloxi, Mississippi, one of the original designers of the Pontiac "Super Duty" engine. The motor block was reborn with significant improvements and modifications to allow for the engine block to be developed as the Pontiac "Super Duty" four-cylinder utilizing the Pontiac four-cylinder head; as a GM block utilizing small block Chevy heads; a Ford SVO block utilizing Ford 351 Windsor V-8 heads; the Yates-style Ford head; or, the MOPAR V-8 cylinder head.
The KRP blocks all feature siamesed cylinders, easily accept 4.125" bore, have additional deck thickness material, five cam journals, beefier main journals and is an improved version of the original, reliable block.

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[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 02-21-2001).]

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