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temperature guage "stuck" by fierogt88
Started on: 12-18-2000 04:39 PM
Replies: 2
Last post by: FieroJoe on 12-18-2000 05:17 PM
fierogt88
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Report this Post12-18-2000 04:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierogt88Send a Private Message to fierogt88Direct Link to This Post
I have seen articles on the web on how to fix the sticking temp guage problem. My temp guage has not worked at all since I got it ... It has been stuck all the way up. Is this the same problem that has been mentioned in these "stuck guage" articles? Or is it more likely that I just have a bad sensor?
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Tigger
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Report this Post12-18-2000 05:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TiggerSend a Private Message to TiggerDirect Link to This Post
When checking the sensor you bypass it using a paperclip at the plug or grounding it and the temp gauge will peg. Sounds like your circuit is good, but sensor is bad.

Check out this thread for more info:

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/006042.html

FieroJoe has the procedure for checking the sensor below...

[This message has been edited by Tigger (edited 12-18-2000).]

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FieroJoe
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Report this Post12-18-2000 05:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJoeSend a Private Message to FieroJoeDirect Link to This Post
Could be, probably just got stuck up there all the way when you started it. With the car off, either bang the dash until it comes down, or just disassemble the instrument cluster and take it out and make sure that the needle can freely move. If it can freely move, here's the troubleshooting options from my 87 helms manual:

"disconnect the Coolant temperature Sender/Switch connector and put the ignition switch in RUN.
- If the coolant temperature gauge reads COLD, replace the coolant temperature sender/switch.
- If the coolant temperature gauge does not read cold, check the Instrument Cluster Printed Circuit and the LT GRN and DK GRN/YEL wires for a short to ground. Replace gauge if all wires are good"

the other test that you can do:
"Disconnect the Coolant Temperature Sender/Switch connector. Jumper the DK GRN/YEL wire to ground (use a fused jumper) and put the ignition switch in RUN

- If the coolant temperature gauge reads hot, replace the coolant temperature sender/switch.
- If the coolant temperature gauge still reads cold, check the LT GRN and DK GRN/YEL wires, printed circuit (back of instrument cluster board) and gauge connections for and open."

more in likely it's just stuck, but if not, run those tests!

------------------
FieroJoe
c311t@yahoo.com

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