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Codes - Codes - Codes = help please! :) by GodSend
Started on: 09-04-2000 02:53 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: theogre on 09-04-2000 11:08 PM
GodSend
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Report this Post09-04-2000 02:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GodSendSend a Private Message to GodSendDirect Link to This Post
Ok guys, first of all I would like to say that I have never tried anything like this before, so excuse any dumb questions.

I am trying to trouble shoot a warm start problem and a pretty bad idle hunting problems (1000-1500 rpms in a constant rythm) so I put the ALCL in diagnostic mode and came up with codes 13,33,44. Using the trusy hanes manual I started to elimate certain things, but I have tons of questions, so here goes.

Code 13 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Check for a sticking or misadjusted TPS. Check hthe wiring and connectiong from the oxygen sensor, replace oxy sensor).

- Ok, So I took a look at the tps, Thwe connections are fine, the "arm in the back" moves freely and springs back into place nicly. Im not sure how to see if its "misadjusted" - But other then that how do I go about checking it? (QUESTION 1)

- I located the o2 sensor easily enough, The connections seem fine, so I guess I will just staight out replace it.

Code 33 - MAP sensor - Check the vac. hoses from the MAP sensor. Check the electrical connections are the ECM, replace the MAP sensor.

- I removed the MAP, checked the hose on the underside, its in fine condition. Checked where the hose attaches to the t-bone, fine. Is there anywhere else to check the MAP hose.? (QUESTION 2)

- How exactly do i "Check the electrical connections at the ECM" - Is it just refering to its physical condition? (QUESTION 3)

- What are the approx costs for these kind of sensors (map, o2,tps...) (QUESTION 4)

Code 44 - Lean Exhaust - Check the ecm wiring terminals, especially 15 and 8. Check for vacume leakage at the tbi base gasket, vacuum hoses or the intake manifold gasket. Replace the oxygen sensor.

- I have not done much with this one, Im going to wait to see what happens when I replace the o2 sensor , but what exactly should I be looking for at terminals 15 and 8 of the ECM (QUESTION 5).

Thanks alot guys (BTW, its a 87 GT 5 speed.)

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theogre
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Report this Post09-04-2000 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Ignore the sensors for the moment and look for vacuum leaks. Check all the EGR hardware and PCV line. A vac leak could cause all those errors.
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Indiana_resto_guy
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Report this Post09-04-2000 04:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Indiana_resto_guySend a Private Message to Indiana_resto_guyDirect Link to This Post
If you have EGR problems you would have a code 32 set. According to Chiltons Electronic Controls Manual, a code 33 may be set with Oxygen Sensor problems. Change the sensor, and reset the computer and run with it. If the code 33 is valid it will be reset.
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Cliff Pennock
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Report this Post09-04-2000 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Cliff PennockClick Here to visit Cliff Pennock's HomePageSend a Private Message to Cliff PennockDirect Link to This Post
I go with Ogre on this. A vacuum leak was the first thing that was going through my mind also. Check the connectors on the MAP sensor, clean them anyway by spraying a little WD40 on the contacts. Next check all vac hoses for leaks.

Having said that, I have no idea how you would check those hoses for leaks. But I'm sure Ogre can tell you that in detail.

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GodSend
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Report this Post09-04-2000 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GodSendSend a Private Message to GodSendDirect Link to This Post
I started to look for vacuume leeks. But was not too sure how to go about doing it. I have backread alot of posts about using carbcleaner/wd-50/break cleaner.

I started a little with the wd40 but did not like the way it smoked on the manifold (and what about electrical components?). SO I stopped with that and just began a manual search at all the ends of the lines, so far everything seems good, Except for a little dirt the all the lines are in great shape.

Im going to try listing with a stethescope type device Because im sure I can hear quite a prominant hiss from the drivers side of the engine. How does one go about checking lines that run under the TB or behind the engine (particularly the metal lines which are not easily removed).

On a side note, The Rotor and Cap seemed to make quite a large improvment on the warm starts, Ill have to run it for a few days to make sure, but It dosent seem to stall any more

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Oreif
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Report this Post09-04-2000 10:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
The things to look closely at is the EGR tube where it mounts under the top portion of the intake. There are 3 - 4 vacuum lines that run from left to right thru the middle of the intake. They are hard plastic lines, They can split lengthwise and cause problems. You can remove one at a time to check them. I ended up replacing mine with regular rubber vacuum lines and clips to hold them.
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theogre
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Report this Post09-04-2000 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Leaks in the EGR hardware may not set the EGR code in the ECM. It depends where the leak is.

There are notes about some of what I've done to search for vac leaks and how to fix them in my cave. (You can get that hard line material but it's a pain to work with)

Note: Be careful with brake cleaner. The current crop of CFC free stuff is weird. Most of it seems water based. It might not work well.

WD-40 and other spray lube is messy. I prefer carb cleaner. Use as little as possible and let it dry before you go to the next area. You don't want to build up a big cloud. Avoid hot things with any solvent. They are all flamable. Even the water based brake cleaner may be flamable. God only knows whats in that stuff.

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