Got a few questions for you guys...

I'm getting a code 32[egr] and 44[lean exhaust]. I know I need an egr tube, which will fix the 44 i hope, but I think the solenoid may also be bad. I'm going to replace both but I don't want to go junkyard diving for questionable replacements.. what's the cost for oem replacements? Would the egr tube from a firebird 2.8 be cheaper from the dealer? Any other solenoids that are cheaper and would work?

I'm also getting terrible gas milage, around 10 mpg. is this related to an inoperative egr? any other reasons? Don't worry Patrick, I'm going to run a search . Just wanted to ask right now in case I can't find anything.

thanks in advance!

Let me know if you find out anything...
I'll do the same for you...

Sound's like you're discribing my 87GT.... Been acting like that for 2-3 day's now... been too busy to check though.. hhmmmm...

Carparts.com has the list prices as follows:

OEM EGR Valve-- $69.93 their price-- $46.62

Couldn't find the Solenoid... Maybe somewhere else....

A code 32 usually indicates a problem with either the EGR solenoid or the vacuum supply to it. A leaking EGR tube will not set a code 32 since this code is simply an indication of fault determined by a small vacuum switch in the EGR solenoid itself. The code 44 is commonly set with a leaking tube, this leakage will adversly effect gas mileage (among other things).

IMO, the solenoid is a weak design. Internal corrosion at the terminals can easily damage the component, with no outward indication of the problem. After 15 yrs, the paper filter (large cylindrical section) can become hard and britle making it much more succeptable to clogging, but backflushing can restore most filters to working order. I had little success in my search for an inexpensive "new" unit, and equivlents from compatible vehicles were also unavailable from the part supply stores in my area. Although the dealer still stocks the correct EGR solenoid, the average cost of ~$100 is a bit hard to swallow. The Fiero Store unit was a bit less expensive than the local dealerships.

The EGR valve is a different story. They are commonly available at most parts supplies, dealership, etc. The best price I could find online for an OEM unit (AC Delco)was from Lustin GM (http://www.lustineparts.com/):

EGR Valve #17110813 $ 30.64

Mike

Thanks for the info, Mike.

I know my egr tube is leaking. gonna go buy a new one from the dealer tomorrow. Think I'll order that solenoid from FS, too.

After running a search for bad gas mileage, it looks like I'll be buying a new o2 sensor and possibly a coolant temp sensor just in case.

I also found that when my GT is giving me problems and I start getting mad at it, I can just stand behind it and listen to the exhaust. reminds me why I love the car in the first place... could just be the fumes, tho.

Which part of the system actually creates the vacuum pressure? I get no suction at the EGR Valve tube. Is it supposed to be constant or on-off?

My EGR Valve works. I hooked a tube up to it and sucked the other end. It wasn't stuck. It worked properly.

87... The vacuum actually comes from a fitting on the bottom of the throttle body. It's "ported" vacuum. You probably won't see any vacuum at all, at idle. From there, it goes through the solenoid. The ECM controls the solenoid, which determines how much of the ported vacuum actually makes it to the EGR valve.

Just got the EGR tube from the dealer today.. thank god for parts' departments that are open till midnight.. #10137017 Pipe Kit. wanted $82 but told him I was quoted $75 at another dealership(i was), and he sayed he'll give it to me at that price.. w/ tax $79.88. Comes with heat sheild and the gaskets.. It was even made in Canada! we'll see how much it helps tomorrow. sure is purty, tho.

[This message has been edited by Standard (edited 02-17-2000).]

A code 35 is more indicative of a broken EGR tube than code 44. Code 35 is the IAC....if the tube is broken the idle will be high (1500-2000 RPM) which is what triggers the code 35. The IAC almost never fails itself and the code 35 is almost always a broken EGR tube.

A code 44 is lean exhaust. This is likely caused by a bad oxygen sensor, but I suppose a cracked EGR tube might also set it.

I would replace the oxygen sensor too, if it's questionable. That would certainly cause lower mileage (more so than a broken EGR tube).

There are a couple of ways to go about installing the tube. I like removing the distributor to gain access. This way you can replace the O ring that always leaks. Just make sure to mark the position of the rotor to reinstall it without messing with the timing.

Another way is to remove the upper plenum. It has a few more steps, but is just as easy as the distributor method. If you unbolt the throttle body from the plenum you won't have to mess with the cooling lines....it makes it easier.

Good luck.

I think I'll go the easy route next time and take off the plenum or ditributor.. left both on, took off the cap and rotor, and the TPS and IAC to get a little room. still a tight fit tho. The idle feels alot smoother now, doesn't jump around so much. Need some money, then I'm gonna replace the CTS and the o2 sensor.

Has anybody else lost any tools while working on thier car? "oh look, the socket came off the ratchet.. hmmm, now it fell off the bolt rolled into some dark recess somewhere.." d@mn thing was nowhere to be found!! sure wasn't under the car. that engine seems to be a magnet for tools.. they just kept jumping out of my hand and landing in some dark spot on the engine.. or maybe it's just me