this is the continuing saga on starts up but dies, with initial posting last 12/3/99 and part 2 back in 12/26/99. since then this is what has transpired:

I TRIED A FEW THINGS FIRT THAT OTHER FIERO OWNERS HAVE SUGGESTED AND I TRULY APPRECIATE
THEIR HELPFUL SPIRIT:

- replaced the old distributor with a
remanufactured one together with a new
pick-up coil (the old one's pick-up coil
was pretty shot) and the ignition module
(the ignition module and pick-up coil
replacement were highly recommended)
- replaced the distributor rotor

but when i cranked it up, it does the same thing, it dies after running for about 2 to 3 seconds. so tonight, i decided to test to see if i'm getting spark from my coil
(an accel unit that ran flawlessly with my 85 engine); i pull out one of the spark plug
boots and placed it close to the cylinder head while my daughter cranks the engine. i told her to keep it on the cranking position and not to let go till i say so. when she did, i definitely had spark jumping from the spark plug out of the protective metal boot across to the cylinder head. in fact, the engine even ran and continued to do so while my daughter kept the key on the crank position. satisfied that it was not the coil, and somewhat encouraged by what just happened, i immediately remembered the post
of djrice in response to starts up but dies, part 2 (essentially that not enough juice is going to the coil when the key is released from the crank position to the on position).
i then tested this theory again and kept the key on the cranking position and the engine continued to run as long as i had the key on the crank position (i held it for a good 10 seconds); but as soon as i released it to the run position, the engine gasped and died. and so, i think djrice hit the nail on the head! now the only thing is: HOW DO I FIX IT? I am encouraged to know that there is not something terminally wrong with the motor but just some electrical wiring problem. i hope that someone with a whole lot more electrical knowledge than i do can come up with a solution. THANKS again for everyone's help. hope that part 4 will be, "starts up and continues running!"

eagle01 in southern california

The Haynes manual covers removing the steering wheel and ign. switch

The ignition module controls ignition timing and firing during cranking. Then a control line from the ECM disables it so the ECM can take control. I think the switch point is suposed to be around 6-700RPM.

I'd check over the cable to the ECM very carefully. Hook up a meter to the control line and watch for ECM takeover. I forget what line it is, and I don't have my book handy. You'll see a voltage change on the control line when the ECM grabs the timing control.

You can also look for pulses on the timing line from the ECM. You can do this with the AC volts scale on the meter, but an osciloscope is prefered. You can actually see the pulses with the O scope.

Just an idea to see if you are on the right track with the ignition switch... Hot wire directly from the battery to the coil. If it starts AND runs then it would mean you are probably on the right track with the switch (or wiring in between).

Also, I believe the actual electrical part of the ignition switch is mounted on the steering column under the dash. There is a small rod that runs down from the key switch part. It has several sets of sliding contacts and could cause symtoms like you described.

What Ogre said could also be your problem...

[This message has been edited by DRH (edited 01-05-2000).]

Check the thread on Fuel system problem-need help. It may save you some headache.