Is there another company that supplies this adapter plate for the small block 350 (besides v8 archie). I seen one previously on a site for $125 i think (it was aluminum).

My 85 GT is looking for a v8 swap and i was looking for an adapter plate. Planning on making my own mounts. I have access to a 350 4 bolt main that runs good for $150. I may be able to get this accomplished without putting over $1000 in it... thanks for any info on the adapter plate.. i dont want to have to purchase the whole kit..

chris

I think this is the URL you want. Good luck!

http://www.iserv.net/~strdream/pricing.html

Thanks Batboy.... that was the exact url i was looking at before... i just couldnt find it again... do any of u guy/gals have any suggestions on which way to go with the plate... aluminum or steel?

aluminum is cheaper and lighter, but would it work just the same?

While I'm tempted to go for the aluminum adapter plate, the starter bolts to it. With repeated starts I'm afraid the aluminum threads could strip. IF you were sure the threads were tapped carefully and you used a high grade bolt, properly coated with loc-tite, torqued correctly, aluminum is a risk I could take.

The adapter sold by Street Dreams looks similar to those used with the Zumalt kits and their knock-offs. My concern is with the adapter thickness. In the Zumalt kits, the thin adapter required the use of countersunk flathead Allen bolts to attach the flywheel. I 've heard horror stories about how difficult they were to remove! I'd rather use standard hex head bolts to attach the flywheel. I think that's why Archie's adapter is thicker (allows clearance for bolt heads).
You mentioned making your own mounts--are you using solid mounts or rubber/urethane?

If anyone has visited the V8archie site recently, they may have noticed that the price of the basic kit has increased. The old price of $850 is no more, as it has now increased by $100. However, the basic kit now includes a 6061 Aluminum adapter plate vs. the old steel one.

Archie had mentioned long ago that he was considering the switch to aluminum, but that it would be slightly more expensive (development costs, etc.). I believe this to be a step in the right direction as less weight is always better, and as one would imagine, the plate design has been well thought out.

As far as DIY V8 conversions kits go, there is much more to this than the adapter plate and motor mounts. The AC compressor and alternator mounts, flywheel, and exhaust system are all items that require custom fabrication. Oil filter relocation, starter, and clutch, also add to the cost. One must also consider the fact that few alternatives to the water pump drive system that Archie offers are adequate for applications other than race only use.

IMO, even the most conservative V8 swap will easily exceed $2000, (not including the engine itself).

Mike
(Fiero info in my user profile)

I believe that Archie's kit is the only one that uses the original axels. That's why the engine is offset to the right and the water pump pulley sticks through the fender well. You'll probably have to have axels made if you use another kit.

HarryG ---> I was thinking of making my own mounts ( or at least attempting it ) i have a good friend who is good with a set of torches.. I will probally use solid mounts... I really havent made up my mind on that area yet... any suggestion?

I am trying to cut corners (cost $$) as much as possible, but i want it to still be reliable... any suggestion?

Chris,

I know Archie uses a solid front mount and stock trans mounts, but I think he went to the solid mounts because there is very little space between the frame and the harmonic balancer--if a flexible mount allows any engine movement, the balancer rubs the frame. I remember looking at a homepage from a Zumalt kit owner and he was not pleased with his solid mounts--too much vibration. I think that to use rubber/urethane mounts will force you to move the engine toward the driver's side to allow normal engine movement clearance or else cut holes in the sheet metal (which I don't want to do). Of course, by moving the engine, stock length axles will no longer work!

On the cost for the swap: add up all the known items, then add 1/3; you might be close!

Harry