Thanks for the replies, however, I have checked with some of the largest crate motor dealers in the country and have received no help on a replacement motor- 2.8- for the Fiero. Now that you suggest a 3.4, Chevrolet also lists many 3.4s at different prices with different codes. Which one?

[This message has been edited by geyser (edited 11-13-1999).]

The 2.8 that was used in the Fiero was the same block as used in the Firebird/Camaro/S10 Trucks. The Fieros HEADS were different in that they had larger valves than the Camaro/Firebirds (I don't know about S10s.) Fiero Motorsports in Anaheim has been replacing 2.8s with 3.4 with great success.

ACtually, the fiero's did have larger valves. That's why guys on www.thirdgen.org look for fiero heads when they want to improve on thier 2.8's. I believe they refer to them as H.O. heads.

I bought a Grooms remanufactured 2.8L motor through Ed Parks at the Fiero Factory in Huntsville AL. They also offer 3.1L and 3.4L motors that work in the Fiero with slight modifications. Ed can arrange whatever you need if you are interested in remanufactured motors with warranty.

I believe the S-10 motor needs the starter moved to the other side to work in the Fiero.

GM PN 12363230 is the 3.4 HO, good price($1725.00 US list if I remember, the parts manager gave it to me at his "cost" $1675.00) for a new, not rebuilt, engine with a 12/12 warranty. Need minor mods for transverse use, will not void warranty. Rated 160hp with carb and single exhaust, should be 190+hp with MPFI and ported fiero exhaust.

Tim, what kind of mods did you need to make to fit the 3.4? This sounds like the best alternative, however, I must be able to pass Ca. smog.

Ed Parks is probably the best expert in doing the 3.4 swap. Here is a link to his page that covers engine conversions. Great info!

http://members.yourlink.net/dragon/parks/e-conv.htm

GM PN 12363230 is a 49-state engine, sorry California. The hardest part of using a RWD 60 degree V6 in the Fiero is the starter mount. I used the old block to make a template, using the oil pan bolt holes as the reference to locate the starter bolt holes. Drill and tap, carefully. For auto transaxle remove part of block, use the old block as template. Ream bell housing bolt hole next to axle. Create lower mount for A/C bracket. That is the mods to the RWD block. Correct oil pan/pickup and timing chain cover, flexwheel or flywheel, fuel injectors must be selected. A brass fitting (1/4 pipe to 5/16 tube?) for the oil pressure sensor from the hardware store. Intake and exhaust system is bolt-on.

were do you live
I live near one of the biggest junk yards in PA and i could talk to don and ask him the price on one

Can't you rebuild a 2.8 into a 3.4 (or 3.1 or 3.2)?

Why rebuild when you can buy a new one for a few bucks more?

I believe you can rebuild your 2.8 to a 3.2 max. The reason someone would want to rebuild a 2.8 is to keep the numbers. I am at that point as well. Do I want more HP, or do I want to keep my original engine and rebuild. I need to find out the pro's and con's between a rebuild and a 3.4 replacement. Anyone?

The first decision you need to make is "Who am I doing this for?" What difference does it make what numbers are on the car. Unless you are going to Concours the vehicle, build it for yourself and have fun. If you want to keep the integrity of "numbers" then put the original parts aside somewhere and save them for the next owner. The numbers game is pure bunk and only usefull for the collector crowd. The fact is anyone can have any "numbers" applied to an engine block that are so "original" that they are undetectable. Know also that for GM, matching numbers does not mean that the parts came with the car originally, only that they fall into a production range. The part, as in engine, may have been originally in a boat or other vehicle. Don't get caught up in the numbers game, have fun and be free!

OK--1st let me make sure I understand the differences in the motors. 2.8 is stock-3.1 is stroked and 3.2 is bored and stroked, right? Seems like the 3.4 is a totally different motor? I have a 2.5 now, but plan on purchasing another car w/ the 2.8. I planned to put the 2.8 and all of the various changeover parts into my car. I was gonna rebuild the motor into something a little stronger. I don't want to spend alot of extra $ on a new motor when I will already have one. If I can get a 2.8 rebuilt into a 3.1 and still have 190+hp, for about a grand, why would anybody want to pay $1700 for a 3.4 and still have to do all of the mods? A rebuilt motor is just as good as a new one if you go to a reliable mechanic.

Geyser, another place you can go to also that are in California is Fiero Motorsports (yeah, its just a little self promotion cuz I work there part time...) Up to 50 3.4 conversion so far, no probs so far with smog, if you don't tell them its a 3.4 they will NEVER know. Also, the codes might be refering to the different 3.4s.The 3.4 DOHC and 3.4 with aluminum heads for the FWD applications. The 3.4 we are referring to is with iron heads. The same heads as we said before that are used on the Fiero.

Monkey, with the 3.4 it would be the extra torque that you would not be able to get out of a smaller 3.2. The difference in torque between the 2 is hard to say since Ive not been in a built 3.2. You are starting with 3.4 liters as opposed to building up to 3.2. Rated torque starts at 200 lb-ft compared to 165 in the 2.8. I have not seen any reliable numbers from built 3.2s (ie Dyno readings.)Wheather its viable for you to spend the money on the 3.4 is up to you. I just know a lot of very satisfied people with the 3.4. But most of these people are moving up from a tired 2.8. So ultimately it would be up to you.

[This message has been edited by WKDFIRO (edited 11-26-1999).]

The GM cast iron head 60 degree 3.4 V6 uses the same crank as the 3.1, but has a whole different block that's beefier and has a bigger bore. That's the big advantage, it's much stronger than the 2.8/3.1 block, plus you do get a minor increase in torque due to the larger displacement. Being stronger means you can hotrod it somewhat more.

That being said, however, if you're on a tight budget, then rebuilding the 2.8/3.1 (2.9/3.2 if bored out) is probably cheaper and easier than swapping in a fresh 3.4 motor. Building a good, reliable 190 HP 3.1 for $1000 sounds a little ambious though. The machine shop bill for the block and heads alone will be about half that, not to mention all the parts needed. Regardless, it's still cheaper in the long run than a swap. Just expect to pay more than $1000 for a complete rebuild.

But, the ol' 2.8 really wasn't meant to be a high performance engine. If you're the kind of guy who has to punch the go pedal occasionally to redline during a stoplight Grand Prix or just plain hates being behind riced-up Hondas, then building a strong engine and spending a few extra bucks more may be worth it down the road in terms of it holding up. With a strong block and forged pistons, then adding nitrous or a turbo later on will be easy!