Hey Guys...

All has been well in Fiero Land for my lil' '88 coupe untill today...

Sqeeeeeeeeeling!!! Thought it was a bearing but I then shut down the engine and found the serpentine belt to be very loose. The manual says that this model/year has a self adjusting tensioner. The belt is not broken. I'm thinking that the tensioner must have broken or such.

Can any of you who have had a similar problem please shed some light on this for me??

Thnx

Ozzy

When mine started squeeling last month I put the back end up on ramps, got underneath and loosened the alternator and pulled it back as far as I could with a 3 foot crow bar till the belt was tight enough, then tightened the alternator back. No sqeeks!

If Ozzy has a serpentine belt then it must be a 2.5 engine. None of the Fiero V6s had this belt. Yes, there is a spring loaded tensioner that keeps the belt automatically tight. Normally you have to hold this back to pop the belt off during replacement. Sometimes they do go bad. Careful if you take it off yourself, if that spring lets go it could go flying and hit you in the head or something.

the original tensioner has a big spring and the tensioner arm pivots on a poorly made sleave type bearing. It has likely worn out. Replacements are available only thru dealers from what I went thru to get mine. The new ones are upgraded at least a little bit.

Warning! drain the cooling system before removing the tensioner! The tensioner also serves as the cover for the water jacket opening in the block.

To replace the unit remove 3 retaining bolts that go into the block face, and the top bolt from the alternator. Replace the belt at the same time.

DO NOT attempt to take out the arm pivot bolt! The load spring is under tension even with the belt off. If you need some extra room take the idler pully off the arm.

clean the front of the block, and paint some high tack or super 300 permatex on the gasket. You don't need RTV here. If you use RTV use only a very thin film on the gasket.

start all 4 bolts in the holes then tighten the block bolts step wise like you would thightening lug nuts. Tighten the alternator bolt last.

I found that once the fanbelt starts squealing even after adjustments, that the belt is ready to break. I suggest you replace it before getting stuck somewhere with a broken belt as the car will immediately overheat.

rich,

the serpent system cannot be adjusted. if the belt is loose, as described above, the belt self tensioning device has failed. The tensioning unit must be replaced as an assembly. It cannot be serviced.

The belt should of course be changed with the tensioning device.

Also the new belt must be kept clean. If a serpent gets oil or grease on it, then it won't last long. I just had to replace one that was only a year old because it got splattered with oil and started squalking. Once they start doing that no dressing will save them.

Thanx Gentlemen for your input. This is at a bad time for me. I believe that ogre has nailed my problem one more time. I just don't have the damn time to fix it right now.

Fiero Store has this assy (I think it's the same) listed in their latest cat. I might just get it from them 'cause I don't have the time to hunt down a deal at this time. Is this the right unit Ogre??

Ozzy

I don't have a catalog... didn't see it on line. There is only one belt tensioner for the 4 cyls, so it's probably right. I know list price on it at the dealler was around 60$us when I got mine last year.

Thats about what they are asking for it actually. I might check out a dealership here in town to see if I can pick it up sooner... shipping and such will cost more and I really need to get it fixed this weekend if possible.

I can't believe that the damn mounting bolts pass thru the water system. Just typical I guess. I normally like working on this car but when I have more time to investigate stuff as I go.

Ozzy

judging by the size/shape/placement of the opening in the jacket, I'm guessing the plan was for a variant of this block that has the water pump there. On the non serpent motors there is just a cover there. With space being what it is, There wasn't really any choice but to use that area to mount the tensioner. It's annoying, but you'll probly never have to mess with it again. The new ones are a bit better built.

Kewl Dude!

Once agian, appreciate the info.

Ozzy

For reference sake ... 'theogre' mentioned paying about $60 last year for the serpentine belt tensioner.

I just called three different Pontiac parts departments. Two quoted me a list price of $59.75, the third said $64.95.

Interesting to note ... the place that quoted me the higher price was the only one to have the part in stock. It's like they're charging more because the part is not readily available elsewhere ... bastards!

[This message has been edited by Scott2M4 (edited 11-08-1999).]

Probably true however, If it's the right one, for the extra five spot I'd be grabbin' it in a flash just to save myself the aggravation of hunting for one.

Ozzy

Last question from me (I hope) ...

When installing the new tensioner unit, what is the lb/ft requirement for tightening the three bolts to the block?. Do the Chilton's or Hayne's manuals have this info?

not that i've seen. try a factory book specific to 87 or later. Failing that use the same torque as the intake, maybe a tiny smidge more. It's about the same aluminum thickness. paint the cork gasket with either "super 300", "aviation", or HiTack, sealer. You don't need or really want RTV here. You only need a light coat to fill any fine scratches and seal pores in the cork.