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| How to replace the rear bearing hubs, with pics. (Page 3/4) |
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fierohoho
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JUN 23, 08:20 AM
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Good idea David, I'll have more to do in the future so I think I'll make one of the PVC deapth gages, thanks. Steve
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twodogjohnny
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JUL 30, 12:49 PM
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any special place to buy the bearing/hub assembly? or is it off to napa/autozone?
-john
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theogre
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JUL 30, 01:41 PM
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It is a good writeup. You're doing a bunch of things you don't really need to. Guys.... You don't have to take off the knuckle. It's best if you don't and far faster... You need a section of 1.5 inch PVC pipe with a straight coupler. If you have a small sledge, use the side of that to drive the seal. (You want the area of the mini sledge, don't need to pound it hard.) If you only have small hammer you'll need a wood block to keep from breaking the pipe. To make it a bit easier... have someone hold the axle for you. Push in on the axle as well to clear the seal while you drive it in. There is nothing you need to measure on the seal. The edge of the seal should be flush with the back of the knuckle as hoho shows it and as shown earlier above... the seal is driven from the front of the axle. there are more notes in my cave. ------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurasic Park) The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)
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JazzMan
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JUL 30, 02:29 PM
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On using PVC pipe to drive the seal, get an end cap for the pipe, glue it in place, and you have a great surface to whack with the hammer. Use Sch.40 pipe and cap, it's the strongest you'll find in a regular home store. JazzMan
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theogre
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JUL 30, 02:35 PM
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Cap probably would help... I just used leftover stuff I had from house repairs. Tapping with the side of my mini sledge it went right in.
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Stainless1911
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DEC 01, 05:37 PM
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Does the Axl nut and seal come with the hub? I just placed the order from Rock Auto this morning.
Will I need an alignment after this job?
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Dennis LaGrua
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DEC 08, 08:25 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Stainless1911:
Does the Axl nut and seal come with the hub? I just placed the order from Rock Auto this morning.
Will I need an alignment after this job? |
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The hubs sometimes come with the seal and other times they don't. Hubs should include the axle nut. You need not go for an alignment unless you remove the strut assembly. While this is a good write-up, I always replace hubs with the strut attached to both the spindle and upper wheel well.
I can change them in under an hours time this way but we use a lift, impact wrenches and a hub puller. . ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Stainless1911
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DEC 08, 08:57 PM
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Thanks. I've been having enough trouble getting alignments done correctly on this car. I see no real reason to take the struts out.
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KillerFrogg
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MAY 14, 01:59 AM
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I replaced both of the bearing on my car today. One thing I did was to pull the center caps off of the wheel, set the park brake and chocked the wheels, put my deep well socket through where the center cap was, and then brake the axle nut on both sides free before doing anything else.
Not sure if the socket fits with stock wheels. I have a set of Subaru wheels on my car.
Putting the new axle nuts on was the reverse. Got the axle nut snug, bolt wheels on, and torque to 200 and hope I don't blow a hernia.
I also have gotten away from hammering on the tie-rod-end castle nut. I have noticed that most knuckles have a flat spot on the side of where the tie rod bolts in. A few good hits with a hammer normally frees the tie rod up.
Notes. Stock cars should have 30mm axle nuts I believe, but I am not sure. My car had the bearings replaced at some point, and had 29mm nuts on the car (1 1/8in socket fit snug but it fit) and the new bearings came with 29mm nuts.
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fierofool
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OCT 19, 11:45 PM
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Good how-to. Well explained and understandable even though I can't see the pictures any more.
I do have a question about installing the axle nut. Everything I've read says to pre-torque the axle nut to 75 lb/ft with the suspension unloaded. Then lower the vehicle onto the wheel and finish the torque to 200 lb/ft.
Which is the correct procedure. Torque in two steps or in one? Suspension loaded or unloaded?
Edit: Now, as I back out of the thread, the pictures show up. Working on replacing my brother's hub, so I will leave this online all night for reference tomorrow.[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-20-2015).]
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