How to replace the rear bearing hubs, with pics. (Page 2/4)
2000RagTop JUN 21, 12:23 AM
nice work........

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fierohoho JUN 21, 12:55 AM

quote
Originally posted by Bigfieroman:

I don't understand....why did you remove the strut/spindle assembly from the car? I removed my rear bearings to install longer lugs by just removing the rotor, removing the axle nut, and undoing the 3 bolts attaching it to the spindle/upright. Took ~30 minutes per side including stud removal and install time.

BTW, I replaced my axle nuts at the same time. These must be replaced ANY TIME THEY ARE REMOVED!


I did it this way as I replaced the seals also.

The strut removal made it easier to get to them.

Thanks for the compliments fellas.

[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 06-21-2005).]

Patrick JUN 21, 02:58 AM

I always appreciate it when people go the extra step and take a whole bunch of pictures to help explain a procedure. Very well done!

One question though - What's the secret to keeping your camera from getting filthy when you use it while pulling wrenches?

fierohoho JUN 21, 07:28 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


I always appreciate it when people go the extra step and take a whole bunch of pictures to help explain a procedure. Very well done!

One question though - What's the secret to keeping your camera from getting filthy when you use it while pulling wrenches?



Thanks for the compliment.

No secret really, it gets filthy.

Pretty easy camera to clean up afterwards though.

[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 06-21-2005).]

RCR JUN 21, 08:10 AM
Good write-up, man. + for you....

Bob

Paul Prince JUN 21, 08:17 AM
Nice pics, good write up. Thanks.............Paul
Grim001 JUN 22, 01:46 AM
When putting in new bearing seals I try to find a socket(or other tool) about the same diameter, to hammer it in the hub. That way there are no small dents or other type of damage and it will usually seat smoother. Great write up.
fierohoho JUN 22, 07:44 AM

quote
Originally posted by Grim001:

When putting in new bearing seals I try to find a socket(or other tool) about the same diameter, to hammer it in the hub. That way there are no small dents or other type of damage and it will usually seat smoother. Great write up.



I couldn't find a socket that big so...

My next tool purchase will be a bearing race/seal installer tool.

I wasn't too concerned about this seal as it seems to be set up to keep as much dirt/moisture off the rear of the beariong hub as possible.

If you ever do one you'll see there is a drain indent at the bottom of the knuckle assembly to allow some air movement to the back of the bearing hub, I suppose to keep it dry and give any water that gets in there a way out.

You can see it at the right of the bearing seal in this pic:

As you look at this pic the bottom of the knuckle assembly is at the right.

opm2000 JUN 22, 12:53 PM
A 2 1/8" Craftsman socket fits the backside perfectly, and allows driving in from the back, or inside.

Before removing the old, I use a piece of pvc pipe which fits thru the front side perfectly. I cut it off to kie flush whith the three bearing bolt landings. Now you have a perfect depth guage.

Pics tonight.

David Breeze

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opm2000 JUN 23, 08:07 AM

From the backside, a 2 1/8" socket for driving in the seal.
Also, the pvc pipe section is shown.
You can put the pipe in the hub, set it on a table top, and drive the seal down to the pipe.

From the outside, the pvc pipe in place, against the seal.
Check for depth by using a straitedge across the bolt landings.

David Breeze