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| Mounts - 1 installer - 0 (Page 6/11) |
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84Bill
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OCT 31, 10:19 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Hulki U. My-BFF: My d1cks bigger than your d1ck. |
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Yeah but you have a pinhead.
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Hulki U. My-BFF
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OCT 31, 02:22 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by 84Bill:
Yeah but you have a pinhead. |
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Thanks.
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MstangsBware
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OCT 31, 04:38 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Oreif:
I don't know, Why don't you ask him? His Email is listed in my post. |
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I figured since you new the history of the car you was keeping up with it. I mean didn't is run that time in like 93?
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Oreif
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OCT 31, 06:40 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by MstangsBware:
I figured since you new the history of the car you was keeping up with it. I mean didn't is run that time in like 93? |
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I have only gone by what he wrote to Archie (which is on Archie's website) and the pictures he posted. If I recall it was around 1997 when he ran it for that time slip. In the article he wrote he mentions getting a race day for next year (1998). I don't know if that ever happened or if he even still has the car. I only passed on the contact info since he mentioned he has a performance company and has a catalog of parts for Fiero's that are set-up for drag racing. If anyone is interested in further info on the car or race proven parts that he used, They can contact him.
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fierofetish
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OCT 31, 08:40 PM
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I am not taking any sides here, because I know nothing about the actual subject. I just want to make a comment on this:
IMHO,those welds are of very poor quality. Sorry, but that is something I do know about. Those appear to be single runs, without having been 'burnt out' first.Or even beveled.I doubt that there are welds on the back, due to limited access to do it. you can take my opinion or leave it, but I will post here where the weak points are, IN MY HONEST OPINION 
 The heat marks, or rather lack of them, indicate that the penetration is minimal. The metal parts were not prepared well enough, and the foundary slag surface has not been removed, or so it appears. The weld will 'stick' to the slag,and not the steel underneath, and break very easily. There should have been three passes with the welder: one on either side of the joint, and a central one joining the two. Another indication of lack of penetration/ heat is that the weld is too high in the middle of the run. And the runs should go right around the ends , because that is where cracking of the weld will start. This advice is unsolicited, but offered in the hope that it will prevent any failures in the joints further down the line , and just my $0.02  Nick[This message has been edited by fierofetish (edited 10-31-2008).]
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84fiero123
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NOV 01, 09:18 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by fierofetish: I am not taking any sides here, because I know nothing about the actual subject. I just want to make a comment on this:
IMHO,those welds are of very poor quality. Sorry, but that is something I do know about. Those appear to be single runs, without having been 'burnt out' first.Or even beveled.I doubt that there are welds on the back, due to limited access to do it. you can take my opinion or leave it, but I will post here where the weak points are, IN MY HONEST OPINION 
 The heat marks, or rather lack of them, indicate that the penetration is minimal. The metal parts were not prepared well enough, and the foundary slag surface has not been removed, or so it appears. The weld will 'stick' to the slag,and not the steel underneath, and break very easily. There should have been three passes with the welder: one on either side of the joint, and a central one joining the two. Another indication of lack of penetration/ heat is that the weld is too high in the middle of the run. And the runs should go right around the ends , because that is where cracking of the weld will start. This advice is unsolicited, but offered in the hope that it will prevent any failures in the joints further down the line , and just my $0.02  Nick
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I have to agree with Nick on this and I have been doing this, welding for close to 20 years.
Always bevel before welding, Always make sure you have good penetration, Always make a root pass and then two cover passes on anything that is going to be stressed. Always finish your welds to the end of the subject.
These look like acceptable welds around the farm for something that is not getting any stress. But if this is any type of mount it needs to be done right the first time, or your are asking for trouble later on.
If I had to do any of those over after buying them I would be pissed. Welding takes years of practice, experience, you and the guy who sent this thread to the trash can need to spend a couple of months welding, welding and then even more welding.
Destruction is an exceptable way to test welds, make a weld, then bend it until it brakes. If it brakes someplace else other than right in the weld it is a good weld. Welding weakens the surrounding metal to some degree no mater how good you are.
So the brake should be there.
My experience, 2 years on the assembly line in the body shop at GM, 15 years welding in construction out in the field.
Steve------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't. Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.
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PURPLE REIGN
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NOV 01, 10:38 AM
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Well then it's a good thing those aren't mine then in the example
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Back On Holiday
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NOV 01, 11:56 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by 84Bill:
Yeah but you have a pinhead. |
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how would you know?
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Billybo455
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NOV 01, 12:24 PM
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if the mounts are drilled to fit how can you make axles from the swap? can't they vary the mounts almost an inch one way or the other? not sure if this was brought up or not.
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84Bill
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NOV 01, 04:27 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Back On Holiday: how would you know? |
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I can read above just a tad above a 3rd grade level.
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