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| Starting to look for a new printer (Page 3/4) |
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TheDigitalAlchemist
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DEC 04, 04:59 PM
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All that "put stuff on the bed" is unnecessary if you have the right bed material. Buildtak (and the hundreds of similiar products) makes all that unnecessary. Only used glass back in '14-15, it used to stick great, but removal was a chore sometimes. Folks swear by the glue stick or goo stick but again, not needed. hair spray. same deal... Only printer I use anything is the Makerbot Mini, some blue tape...
Start small, like a small callibration cube. then print four, at the corners. Get that first layer down level and then go for larger prints...
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shemdogg
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DEC 04, 08:28 PM
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Wichita sounds like your bed level is off and the nozzle hit the print and ripped it from the plate. Gotta recheck the bed every few prints. Even I have to with my "automatic bed leveling" wtf?
Alchemist the blue tapes great but it has to be changed every print. Or add hairspray lol. The sculptos beds required no leveling, just adjusting the z, thought that was pretty cool. The sculptos buildtak must be different from the peel and stick ones I had before. I remember I had prints stick so friggin bad, the buildtak, the buildplate cover would start to peel off before the print did. Gouging from the bottom with a chisel was the only resort and still didnt always work. This was before the removeable buildplates. Im just lazy and dont clean my buildplates often enuf. I just expect it to work everytime lol
shem
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Wichita
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DEC 04, 08:39 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by shemdogg:
Wichita sounds like your bed level is off and the nozzle hit the print and ripped it from the plate. Gotta recheck the bed every few prints. Even I have to with my "automatic bed leveling" wtf?
Alchemist the blue tapes great but it has to be changed every print. Or add hairspray lol. The sculptos beds required no leveling, just adjusting the z, thought that was pretty cool. The sculptos buildtak must be different from the peel and stick ones I had before. I remember I had prints stick so friggin bad, the buildtak, the buildplate cover would start to peel off before the print did. Gouging from the bottom with a chisel was the only resort and still didnt always work. This was before the removeable buildplates. Im just lazy and dont clean my buildplates often enuf. I just expect it to work everytime lol
shem |
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Yeah, I do the auto bed leveling each time. But I only did the manual bed level when I first set it up. I hope I don't have to do that each and every time. But I'll do the manual setting and then auto level and check it out from there.
I believe you are right. At some point of the layer, it is dragging the thing it off the glass.
The successful prints, I had no issue getting the print off the glass. I did use a small scrapper (came with the set) for the boat. But the drill holder, I was able just to pick it up off the glass without any prying at all.
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MidEngineManiac
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DEC 04, 11:10 PM
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I run PLA+ at 210-212 and 50, so you are close there. I usually use 3D Max. Good quality, never really had a problem with it, and in bulk I get 10 rolls for $200 or 6 for $130. It's even cheaper in the US if you order direct from them instead of Amazon or something.
https://llldmax.com/
Try a brim. Could be a little draft causing the print to curl then break loose. Thats a HUGE winter problem here, I even resorted to a temporary enclosure last year. Just buck-store foam-board and duct tape but it did the job. Even carboard and tape would work. Just something to block any drafts from getting at the bed.[This message has been edited by MidEngineManiac (edited 12-04-2022).]
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TheDigitalAlchemist
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DEC 04, 11:48 PM
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What are you guys printing?
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Wichita
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DEC 04, 11:52 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by TheDigitalAlchemist:
What are you guys printing? |
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I printed this peg board drill holder. Came out awesome for one. Just trying to replicate it, because I have several drills.

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TheDigitalAlchemist
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DEC 05, 12:19 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Wichita:
I printed this peg board drill holder. |
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That's a lot of what we've been printing lately. 'Practical pegboard prints".
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Wichita
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DEC 05, 01:54 PM
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Starting to get some failed prints. I'm suspecting the nozzle. Replacing with a new one, makes it perfect. But fails a second time
I'm using .2mm. wondering if it too small.
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mmeyer86gt/gtp
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DEC 05, 03:31 PM
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Ive been in the 3d printer relm since 2018 and i am still learning. I've owned about 30 or so printers now. I my experience. If you have the $$ get a prusa or build a clone. If you have a little more money and dont want to build a printer buy the new bambu xic printer if you want multi material then get the bambu x1cc.
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MidEngineManiac
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DEC 05, 04:37 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Wichita:
Starting to get some failed prints. I'm suspecting the nozzle. Replacing with a new one, makes it perfect. But fails a second time
I'm using .2mm. wondering if it too small.
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.4 is the "standard" and .6 is the "new normal". Quality is just as good as 0.4 and it saves a lot of time. Just dont forget to change the nozzle size in the profile when you switch them ( Yeh. dont ask. I'm an idiot)
A 0.2 is for fine detail work like mini figurines and is a PITA to keep going.
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