3D Printing (ASA) problems (Page 2/4)
Fats FEB 22, 05:44 PM
With ASA you are going to want to put an enclosure around the area, even if it's just some plastic and heat the air some as well.

Warm everything including the air.
TheDigitalAlchemist FEB 22, 06:20 PM
Make sure you don't breathe that stuff in, its kinda nasty.
Synthesis FEB 22, 10:50 PM
I regularly print ASA on my open frame cartesian without issues at 100mm/s.

What is your layer height when printing?
What size nozzle?
Have you calibrated your extruder steps?
What temp are you running your heated bed at?
What is your build surface?
Wall count? Top/bottom layer count?


On my very heavily modified CR-10s, I print ASA at .1, .15, and .2 with a .4mm nozzle at 245C with a hotbed of 100C on a 1mm thick PEI sheet fixed to a borosilicate glass surface, which is fixed to the aluminum using a large silicone thermal transfer pad the size of the bed.
In fact, it's in the process of "giving birth" to it's successor, a modified AnnexEngineering K2 Summit that will run BLDC servo motors and should be able to sling ASA, PC, and some other exotics at 1500mm/s or faster when done.

Toss some photos up of a couple of your failed prints if you would, with detailed shots showing the layers.
Cliff Pennock FEB 23, 01:59 PM
BTW, it's an Ender 3D-Max with a Dual Z upgrade. Just bought it a few weeks ago to replace my DIY 3D printer (which prints great but has a small 20mm x 20mm bed and I needed to print larger things)


quote
Originally posted by Synthesis:

What is your layer height when printing?



0.2mm


quote
What size nozzle?



0.4mm


quote
Have you calibrated your extruder steps?



I had constant extruder clicks (violent retractions) so I did an E-Step calibration. Turned out it was actually feeding to little filament. I calibrated it and obviously that did not help the extruder clicks at all.


quote
What temp are you running your heated bed at?



I found that a bed temperature of 60C (140F) gives me great bed adhesion with ASA.


quote
What is your build surface?



Glass with 3DLac.


quote
Wall count?



3


quote
Top/bottom layer count?



4 and 3


quote
Toss some photos up of a couple of your failed prints if you would, with detailed shots showing the layers.



Will do so when I get to print something ASA again. Had to print "Among Us Cookie Cutters" for my kids first (PETG). 😄
MidEngineManiac FEB 23, 02:30 PM
Still running the stock plastic extruder ?

Get a dual-gear all-metal ASAP and be amazed at the problems that go away.

https://www.amazon.ca/TOOGO...%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-27
Cliff Pennock FEB 23, 03:41 PM
No, the Ender-3 Max actually has an all metal extruder. I get the extruder clicks even when it's purging filament - so when the hot end is nowhere near the bed or print. Increasing the nozzle temp makes no difference...
MidEngineManiac FEB 23, 04:06 PM
Set screw loose on the gear ? Missing tooth ?

If you calibrated and the filament is flowing fine the hot end should be OK and there isn't much at the extruder too click. Stepper maybe ?

Try putting a screwdriver on it and too your ear (like checking bearings in an alternator) and track it down that way ?
Synthesis FEB 23, 05:16 PM
I'm with MEM on this. Extruder clicks should not be a thing. The clicking you're hearing is missed steps on the extruder stepper, not slipping gears.

What this means is your flow resistance is too high when you're extruding or your stepper amperage is too low. The other thing I have found is a loose or disconnected pin or broken wire on the stepper itself (that was a pain in the ass to find on my Galileo extruder).
The E3-Max has an all metal extruder, but not an all metal hotend per the specs I can find.

Change the nozzle, and if you get a chance, consider an all-metal hotend upgrade. You may also want to consider a move to a direct drive extruder kit.

[This message has been edited by Synthesis (edited 02-23-2022).]

Cliff Pennock FEB 23, 07:31 PM
There are a few odd things with the extruder clicks. Increasing temperature (to slightly past the filament's max) doesn't help. Decreasing speed doesn't help. The only thing that helps a bit is increasing baby Z steps mid print. Which is weird because the first layer is perfect. Not spread out or anything and all other layers after that are fine too. So flow is in no way blocked. And like I said, I even get extruder clicks when purging.

I've checked the gears and they were fine. I've also tightened/loosened the extruder's pivot screw, as well as the spring adjustment screw. Loosening the spring got rid of the extruder clicks, but it was massively under-extruding then (and the gear was actually simply slipping on the filament).

I've already tried replacing the nozzle. That didn't make a difference.

At one point, I suspected the thermistor might be off and it was measuring too high temperatures. But replacing it made no difference.

I have a spare stepper motor so I can try to replace that and see if that makes any difference. If nothing works, I''ll probably replace the Bowden setup with the direct drive extruder from my DIY printer.
MidEngineManiac FEB 23, 07:55 PM
One thing to keep in mind (V2 and the dual Z may help) is on my E3 I had a direct drive when I got it, and you can not change filament during a print without screwing up the Z. I got fed up with it and went back to a bowden with a top-mount extruder. No problems since....well, except for blowing up a mobo and I'll get a 4.2.7 when this move is over.