#\ *doublec4* /# Official Build Thread (Page 81/87)
doublec4 FEB 07, 04:10 PM
This is what I did to lift the rear:





It worked very well and I was even able to lift the rear of the car with the engine/cradle still in place from this point. I couldn't get a floor jack under the car + the pallet jack to lower the cradle onto the pallet jack. Not a single creak or moan lifting like this.

Edit: The tear in the trunk seal was already there before lifting from this point. The hook + chain will not damage the seal.

[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 02-07-2016).]

Neils88 FEB 07, 09:32 PM
Might want to add a small clamping plate on the bolt head side just to ensure they don't tear through since you're still just lifting with sheet metal...but definitely much stronger/safer than using the trunk latch. Thanks for the pic!
doublec4 MAR 22, 09:54 AM
Other than some more disassembly, things were going pretty slow... then I was told I might be able to get my car in a wind tunnel but it has to be back on the road by the end of the month... so now I'm working against the clock!

Valve springs are in, roller rockers will be put in last to make sure they are well lubricated before I fire the engine back up for the first time. Valve covers have been repainted wrinkle red. Waiting on lots of parts in the mail for my new exhaust!

You can watch my adventure in valve spring removal and replacement here + I show the quick and easy tool I made for the spring removal / installation.
ericjon262 MAR 23, 01:35 AM
while your valve spring tool does work, I would not recommend that method on an aluminum head engine, because it would probably pull the threads. if you used a stud and nut instead, you would be fine in aluminum because you would have full engagement before loading.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

doublec4 MAR 23, 08:24 AM

quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

while your valve spring tool does work, I would not recommend that method on an aluminum head engine, because it would probably pull the threads. if you used a stud and nut instead, you would be fine in aluminum because you would have full engagement before loading.




I suppose the potential for that happening is there, however, here is how I see it... The typical design rule I use for threading into aluminum is to have minimum twice the bolt diameter in thread engagement (when being torqued). When I thread the bolt into the head before I start compressing the spring, I was probably around 1 times the diameter in engagement. The socket is being used as the fulcrum of the tool, and the spring is at the outmost end. It is a 90lbs / in spring I believe. At the most, it would have been compressed about an inch, so it would be applying 90lbs upwards. The bolt being halfway between the spring and the fulcrum would have to apply twice the force downwards to counter the spring... so about 180lbs at most, and at this point it would be threaded into the head at twice the diameter of the bolt.

The bolt is a 5/16th socket head cap screw which is min. grade 8 bolt, probably better. At the recommended torque, it will apply 4720 lbs of preload on a joint... maybe if threaded into aluminum the torque is cut in half and so is the preload... so even conservatively say when threaded into aluminum it applies 2500lbs of preload. The 180lbs required to compress the spring is less than a tenth of that approximately... theoretically those threads shouldnt pull.
ericjon262 MAR 23, 10:57 AM
Main reason I mention it, people frequently strip the rocker threads on aluminum 60V6 heads with full thread engagement, not saying it will happen, just that it is very possible if you're not careful.
doublec4 MAR 23, 11:33 AM

quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

Main reason I mention it, people frequently strip the rocker threads on aluminum 60V6 heads with full thread engagement, not saying it will happen, just that it is very possible if you're not careful.



Absolutely. Any threading and torqueing into aluminum should be done with care. Stripped or pulled threads in a head would ruin anyone's day
doublec4 APR 10, 01:56 AM
Had more time to work on the engine today... dropped the oil pan and to my pleasant surprise everything looked pretty decent. For some reason I was expecting to see a lot more metal in the pan and on the oil pick up screen... but it was all very clean. Waiting on the oil pick up tube gasket (Coming in Monday) and then I can put the new oil pan gasket in and button it all down.

The rest of the day I had some time to work on my new exhaust (and practice my TIG welding skills). This is only my third time picking up the TIG torch (so be kind with the welding critique) so I was bit nervous to take the chop saw to my brand new front/rear Plogs from ZZP. I have to modify them to eliminate the crossover and the EGR tube.

On the rear Plog I chopped and capped the crossover:



On the front Plog I chopped the crossover tube, rotated it and welded it pointing downwards:




I also chopped the flared flange and welded it right to the two bolt flange. A little difficult to see in this picture, I should have taken the picture with the manifold off of the engine.



Other than that, I just welded a flex pipe to one of my bullet resonators in preparation for another day where I can start fitting up the rest of the exhaust:



I can't wait to hear how different this thing is going to sound...


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Check out my build and my website!
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000100.html
Embrace Racing

[This message has been edited by doublec4 (edited 04-10-2016).]

zmcdonal APR 15, 08:00 PM
Are you building a true dual setup? Curious to see what your plans are, and how it sounds.
doublec4 APR 16, 01:33 AM

quote
Originally posted by zmcdonal:

Are you building a true dual setup? Curious to see what your plans are, and how it sounds.



Well... crossover is eliminated, but they will merge back up 2 into 1. After that they are going to exit through one of my side scoops... so side exit exhaust but just not down at the rocker