Ecotec, Fastback, T-Top Build. (Page 7/22)
akademikjeanius SEP 06, 01:54 AM
So awesome....I bow to your machining and welding abilities.
Lunatic SEP 06, 07:32 AM
Thanks for the compliments guys. You all make this worth while!

Before I built my custom cradle, I had the driveline sitting on the stock, although slightly modified 84 cradle. I chose to add these photo's for those interested in doing the Ecotec and F23 swap using a stock, modified cradle.

Here's the driveline sitting in place.






Here's the 2003 Cavalier F23 mounts with poly installed.


Simple steel plate that can be formed and shaped at home.


Which gives you this.










Old front spreader removed and new 2"x2" square tube welded in further forward.


Cradle now looks like this.




And here's what it used to look like.
lateFormula SEP 06, 12:44 PM
Lunatic, I just read through page two of your build and a couple pictures you posted about the cradle and the suspension mounting points caught my attention. Given the obvious skills you have with machining and welding, have you considered making your own trailing and lateral links for the rear suspension? I have owned an 88 for a long time, and something I have always wished for is a set of those suspension links that would be made with square tubing and be more rigid than the OE parts. I am speaking of the following two parts:



I have always though that links similar to what Hotchkis makes would be cool:


I would think that you could make a simple jig to hold the two ends, and then weld in some square tubing between the two ends. The ends would be the same ID and width as the OE ones so that standard bushings for the Fiero could be used.

If perchance you do something like this, I would be very interested in buying a set from you!
Lunatic SEP 09, 05:12 AM

quote
Originally posted by lateFormula:

Lunatic, I just read through page two of your build and a couple pictures you posted about the cradle and the suspension mounting points caught my attention. Given the obvious skills you have with machining and welding, have you considered making your own trailing and lateral links for the rear suspension? I have owned an 88 for a long time, and something I have always wished for is a set of those suspension links that would be made with square tubing and be more rigid than the OE parts.
I have always though that links similar to what Hotchkis makes would be cool:
I would think that you could make a simple jig to hold the two ends, and then weld in some square tubing between the two ends. The ends would be the same ID and width as the OE ones so that standard bushings for the Fiero could be used.

If perchance you do something like this, I would be very interested in buying a set from you!



Thanks for the reply. Indeed, I could replicate and modify the parts that you've shown and come up with an equally nice component for the Fiero. I've also posted another option. The below items can be bought fairly inexpensively and they provide adjustability which is nice as it can compensate for different offset wheels and such. I like both options and I'll keep you informed as to what route I go with.
cam-a-lot SEP 09, 01:58 PM
SHH!!! Don't tell Lunatic that with all the work he has put into this rusty old beast, he could have bought a rust free 88 Chassis down south and had it shipped home by now... LOL

Crazy bastard! Nice work, you are definitely an artist
Lunatic SEP 20, 08:38 AM
After setting the 88 rear sheet metal in place, I decided to install the fastback and check for fitment. It looked good and I was getting slightly excited. Since the 88 sheet metal I got came from a car that was hit, I simply cannot get some mounting pads to line up. After some double checking of measurement's, it appears as though the rear sheet metal is too damaged to use. It looked okay but upon further inspection, I just opted to use the other sheet metal from an 87 that I had. No biggie, I'll get to it when I get some time.






On a side note, not Fiero related, I dabbled on something else. I had transversely mounted a Northstar (and Getrag) into a VW Golf last year. Yes, in the back! Mid-engine baby.


But as time goes by and you find things in your travels, changes happen. I cut up a Porsche 914 and kept some useful parts for a rainy day. Well it rained and here's the start of the Northstar to 914 transaxle (901) adapter. I drew up the adapter and made a template out of 1/8" aluminum. This was necessary to check the fit, squareness and concentricity before I commit to the 3/4" 6061 aluminum plate. Yes, this is a spare Northstar that I used for the mock-up, don't mind the mess! Oh, and all this because I want to mount the Northstar longitudinally!










This adapter clears the Northstar water log.


Since the template was thin, I had to stiffen it up with angle. All in order to get it perfectly flat so the dial indicator could it's job. So far, it's within tolerance. (Which the factory calls out for 0.00" - 0.010")








These transaxle's are made of magnesium and are very light. Don't mind the mild scale build up. It's only in the mock-up stages now anyway.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 10-11-2014).]

Larryinkc SEP 20, 10:53 AM
I have an 88 also and would like to improve the rear links.

Where can I find the parts to make a set of these?


quote
Originally posted by Lunatic:


Thanks for the reply. Indeed, I could replicate and modify the parts that you've shown and come up with an equally nice component for the Fiero. I've also posted another option. The below items can be bought fairly inexpensively and they provide adjustability which is nice as it can compensate for different offset wheels and such. I like both options and I'll keep you informed as to what route I go with.



Lunatic SEP 21, 07:09 AM

quote
Originally posted by Larryinkc:

I have an 88 also and would like to improve the rear links.

Where can I find the parts to make a set of these?




Dude, go into any speed shop and ask for "swage tubes". They're are many options available, steel, aluminum, etc. You buy the tubes and the ends depending on the application. You can get rubber, poly or heim-joint ends too. Sometimes it's just easier to measure your old stuff and take those measurements with you to the speed shop and look through the catalogue. There are many options available.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 11-15-2014).]

el_roy1985 SEP 21, 11:55 AM
Some excellent work you've done. Look forward to further progress. Also looking forward to those blueprints of your cradle. Would be very helpful with my LSJ swap for my 84.
Lunatic OCT 11, 05:49 PM
Okay, I have a little time to work on the car again. Since the 88 rear sheet metal was twisted too badly, I decided to use the 87 rear end that I had. It's in about the same shape and since it had rust, I just had to remove it. Follow along as I do the repair.

Here's the 87 hulk.


As you can see what the problem is.


Remove the offending area and you're left with this.


Start with some 16 gauge sheet metal and put a 90° edge into it.


Cut it on the band saw.




Tack it in place.


Note: I made my patches longer than necessary! I did this because the frame rails still need to be welded in. I'll cut the excess off with the plasma cutter once the frame rails are fully installed.


Upper inner rail being made.






Trial fit.


Partially welded in.






I do need to tweak the outer frame rails but that's for another day.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 10-13-2014).]