LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 62/216)
mwhite FEB 03, 11:21 PM
Your getting close... Don't expect to have a spark until the cam sensor is working, unless you can put the ECM into wasted spark. I don't think wasted spark is an option for your ECM.
Can't wait till you post some audio of that engine running
Kemp3 FEB 04, 10:20 PM
I bet there is a limp mode that puts fuel into batch fire and spark into wasted and a locked timming table
fieroguru FEB 05, 03:17 PM
With the case learn code (ECM hasn't verified crankshaft position) and the Cam Sensor code, there is no good information for the ecm to determine spark or fuel timing to the mechanical timing of the cylinders/valve movements, so I am pretty sure the ECM has those fucntions disabled until the cam sensor issue is addressed. Maybe if the case learn was complete and it has confirmed location of the crankshaft timing, then maybe is one of the other sensors faults out it could do batch fire and waste spark.

I revised the list of program changes and added all the DTC I have turned off for the missing parts.

Maybe in the next day or two I will have time to figure out the Cam Sensor issue.
ennored FEB 05, 05:38 PM
315 CASE learn code is for misfire. It's used to learn the fine variations the crank sensor sees that are normal. It's done during coast with the injectors off. Shouldn't keep it from running. I'm a bit out of my element though, do you know what GM software you have?
fieroguru FEB 05, 06:29 PM

quote
Originally posted by ennored:

315 CASE learn code is for misfire. It's used to learn the fine variations the crank sensor sees that are normal. It's done during coast with the injectors off. Shouldn't keep it from running. I'm a bit out of my element though, do you know what GM software you have?



Agreed. I know it is a cam sensor issue at the moment.

E67 ECM with 12609256 OS, T42 TCM with 12590424 OS
Kemp3 FEB 05, 09:19 PM
I dont know if this is your problem , the cam sensor is wired opposite of the crank sensor. I bet you have connector views but I remember freaking out when I was toning all grounds and 12v references . Then I checked the alldata connector views and they aren't the same, so all was right in the long run.

[This message has been edited by Kemp3 (edited 02-05-2013).]

fieroguru FEB 07, 07:21 PM

quote
Originally posted by Kemp3:

I dont know if this is your problem , the cam sensor is wired opposite of the crank sensor. I bet you have connector views but I remember freaking out when I was toning all grounds and 12v references . Then I checked the alldata connector views and they aren't the same, so all was right in the long run.




I do have connector views for every sensor and found a few typos in the service manual (mostly in the circuit #'s). When I tore apart the harness, I labeled every ecm termination and coiled up the sensor wires/connectors. I also made an excel cheat sheet based on the service manual ECM/TCM terminations and the connector end views. Then when I terminated the wires at the ECM/TCM I checked the label and the cheat sheet for consistency and double checked the pin locations once they were inserted into the ECM/TCM connectors. I don't expect any actual wiring issues for the main engine sensors, but I could run across issues with the things I changed (MAF, TB) or the ones I added another connector (like the DBW pedal harness).

I checked the wiring for the camshaft sensor and everything checked out. A new camshaft sensor is on order.

Also, ordered some aluminum spacers for the terminals on the battery to make it easier to put some jumper cables on them.

For the E67 guys, this thread is a good intro to tuning with HP Tuners and covers the basics (with screen shots) and even tuning AFM/DoD. It is focused on the E38 ECM which is the sister of the E67 ECM and both are quite similar in function. I copied the main parts into a word document...
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=20813

Jims88 FEB 09, 10:33 PM

quote
[B]Originally posted by fieroguru

For the E67 guys, this thread is a good intro to tuning with HP Tuners and covers the basics (with screen shots) and even tuning AFM/DoD. It is focused on the E38 ECM which is the sister of the E67 ECM and both are quite similar in function. I copied the main parts into a word document...
http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=20813



Intresting link fieroguru,
looks like I will be doing some more reading.
fieroguru FEB 10, 02:48 PM
IT LIVES! (yes, I am shouting)

The throttle body has 2 TPS sensors and I had the signal wires switched between them. I still need to confirm if they are different between the LS4/LS2 throttle body, if I made a bad assumption during the conversion, or if I just wired them wrong. These two wires switched, kept the ECM from priming the fuel pump for the full 2 seconds and would stop after 1/2 second. The TB also would not move with a push of the pedal, so I hooked up the scanner looking at the TPS readings and moved the throttle body blade by hand and the sensor values went the wrong way. On a whim I took the connector end at the throttle body, switched the two wires and the throttle body worked. Then with a twist of the key the fuel pump primed the full 2 seconds and the engine started.

Need to put coolant in the engine and fluid in the tranny so I can run it longer and continue to work on a few issues.
ericjon262 FEB 10, 04:17 PM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

IT LIVES! (yes, I am shouting)

The throttle body has 2 TPS sensors and I had the signal wires switched between them. I still need to confirm if they are different between the LS4/LS2 throttle body, if I made a bad assumption during the conversion, or if I just wired them wrong. These two wires switched, kept the ECM from priming the fuel pump for the full 2 seconds and would stop after 1/2 second. The TB also would not move with a push of the pedal, so I hooked up the scanner looking at the TPS readings and moved the throttle body blade by hand and the sensor values went the wrong way. On a whim I took the connector end at the throttle body, switched the two wires and the throttle body worked. Then with a twist of the key the fuel pump primed the full 2 seconds and the engine started.

Need to put coolant in the engine and fluid in the tranny so I can run it longer and continue to work on a few issues.



Congrats!! got a video yet???

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