JohnWPB 1986 GT Fastback worklog (Page 55/71)
JohnWPB MAR 13, 06:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
I will offer a small bit of advice...
If you paint your alternator bracket, make sure that the places where the components touch (alternator to bracket, bracket to block, etc) have the paint ground off. There must be a good metal-to-metal contact, or the alternator body will not see a good ground.



Thanks for the kind words, and the tip! I probably would not have thought of that when I was prepping the bracket for paint and taping it off.

On that note, now I need to work on figuring out how to low mount the alternator, and figure out what the 4 water lines in the alternator bracket do, direction of flow and circulation wise. Seriously, who runs 2 water lines through an alternator bracket?!
JohnWPB MAR 17, 06:52 PM
Tinkered with the engine a little more today. I had originally planned to not take the heads off, and just do everything up to that point. Well plans change

I figure that I am this invested into this thing already, I may as well dig a little deeper and check everything. I got one of the heads off today, and am very happy to see that the cylinder walls are not scored in any way, and the pistons are even very clean, with a total lack of carbon deposits. I will take the other one off tomorrow and inspect everything on that side.


I also decided to paint up the starter, and see how it looks in the silver metallic..... I am dying here to see the block done, so this is just to hold me over for now

I'll let the primer dry, and shoot it, and then clear it tomorrow.

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-17-2016).]

Napoleon_Tanerite MAR 17, 07:33 PM
Hmmmm...... you decided to take it down, or were coerced?

Edit-- take those bolts you took off your heads and THROW THEM IN THE TRASH. Same for the bolts that hold the rockers on. They are TTY bolts and are not designed to be reused. Order new bolts from ZZ Performance.

[This message has been edited by Napoleon_Tanerite (edited 03-17-2016).]

JohnWPB MAR 17, 09:03 PM

quote
Originally posted by Napoleon_Tanerite:

Hmmmm...... you decided to take it down, or were coerced?

Edit-- take those bolts you took off your heads and THROW THEM IN THE TRASH. Same for the bolts that hold the rockers on. They are TTY bolts and are not designed to be reused. Order new bolts from ZZ Performance.




LOL, honestly t is not because you removed the heads from your swap...... I actually had gotten water in the cylinders with everything apart over the course of the past couple weeks. I decided I needed to get the heads off and make sure all traces of the water were gone.
JohnWPB MAR 18, 05:39 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:


To add some information....
1999 Buick Ultra...
The last seven of the VIN on a 3800 S2 is on the pad the outboard starter bolt threads into.



I found this when I removed the starter:
EDIT: THIS IS NOT THE VIN NUMBER, SEE A FEW POSTS DOWN FOR THE CORRECT LOCATION OF THE VIN


In another thread, I was asking for a VIN# from a 2004 GTP so I could try and piece the VIN together with the full VIN, and the last 8 digits from the engine block. bonaduce said he could help me out:


quote
Originally posted by bonaduce:
pm me the last 8, i can run it through my parts computer and get you the whole thing in the morning
dan



I gave him the digits off the block, and it came back as an invalid VIN. Are these the numbers you were referring to on the outboard starter mount? I notice the block says it is a Series II, when I do know in fact it is a Series III engine.

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-20-2016).]

JohnWPB MAR 18, 05:48 PM
Not too much done today, just a couple more parts painted, the Alternator and the Starter.

It seems simple enough to paint just 2 pieces.....Not really..... first I have to prime with self etching primer, and wait a half hour. Then mist a base coat, wait about 5 minutes, and then give a nice even base coat. Wait 15 minutes for that to flash over, and then hit it with a clear coat. Wait another 15 minutes, and hit it with the second coat of clear. Quite a bit of work and time for a couple parts at a time.

I HOPE to get the engine block painted this weekend. If that's the case, I can then go in reverse, and start to put everything back together again.
Alex4mula MAR 18, 06:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
..
I will offer a small bit of advice...
If you paint your alternator bracket, make sure that the places where the components touch (alternator to bracket, bracket to block, etc) have the paint ground off. There must be a good metal-to-metal contact, or the alternator body will not see a good ground. Just depending upon the bolt is really not sufficient.
I only mention this because I remember seeing a post from someone who had chromed or powder coated his accessory brackets, and his charging system was completely whacked - until he figured out what was going on.,



Ja! I was one of those. Yes you need to grind of to make good contact with block and other parts.
JohnWPB MAR 18, 07:18 PM
I now have the lower Alternator mount, and the idler pulley taken care of. I ordered the bracket, as well as the tensioner assembly from FieroRog in his Mall Thread. His parts come HIGHLY recommended, and everyone has commented on how simple and perfectly they bolt up, and line up the first time.

There are 2 parts, the one is the bracket to lower the alternator to where the power steering pump was, and the other to connect to the Fieros stick dog-bone, as well as a location to mount the belt tensioner.


The Belt Tensioner is off of a 1995 Ford Taurus, part numbers are:

  • ACDELCO 38139
  • MOTORCRAFT BT42
  • DORMAN 419202
  • GATES 38139
  • DAYCO 89217



The next step is to purchase the motor mounts, then I will pretty much have everything I need to put the engine in the car. Fierorog has those available as well, so I will be ordering again from him here soon. I will be leaving the Exhaust as the last, and very, very much dreaded last major step.

[This message has been edited by JohnWPB (edited 03-29-2016).]

zmcdonal MAR 18, 08:05 PM

quote
Originally posted by JohnWPB:


I gave him the digits off the block, and it came back as an invalid VIN. Are these the numbers you were referring to on the outboard starter mount? I notice the block says it is a Series II, when I do know in fact it is a Series III engine.



From what I understand, there is no such thing as a Series III block, mine is an 04 from a GTP and the block is marked Series II as well. The block is the same, just minor differences that made them a Series III motor.
Napoleon_Tanerite MAR 18, 08:15 PM
Biggest difference it the Gen V supercharger, the bottom end is the same AFIK