Ecotec, Fastback, T-Top Build. (Page 5/22)
Lunatic JUL 30, 08:37 PM
I had some gauges laying around for a while and I decided they'd look nice in the Fiero. So I made some plates in order to house them. I used aluminum but in retrospect I think brushed stainless steel might look nicer.













I didn't like how low the speedo and tach sat in the housing. So I raised them up a bit.


[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 08-03-2014).]

ericjon262 JUL 31, 12:27 AM
you could brush the aluminum and most wouldn't know the difference.
Lunatic AUG 03, 07:19 AM
In this segment, I'll take you through the steps of installing a T-Top roof in the Fiero. Don't mind the mess in the garage, it's not usually like this!

Here's a few notes before we begin.
-This is not an official "how-to-by-the-book" manual but rather my version of doing a T-Top conversion.
-I will use RTV black silicone, PL Premium bonding adhesive, seam sealer and 1/4" rivets to secure it all together.
-I picked up an 87 space frame (Thanks Adam) that had the T-Top option. Therefore, I will be reusing all of the components from that car.

Anyhow,on to the show.

Here's the unsuspecting donor. I just cut the roof off at the "A" and "B" pillars after removing the glass.




After removal, you'll have to separate the components.








Take your measurements. Note: This cut is actually curved!




Cut the roof off the recipient.










Do a test fit.






Paint the freshly cut metal to prevent rust.


Actually, paint all brackets and braces to prevent rust.


I used PL Premium as a bonding agent on the "H" frame. It's not seen here but there was also silicone applied to any area's that might allow water penetration.
Here, the reinforcing header is glued and riveted prior to installing the "H" frame.


"H" frame glued.




"H" frame secured with 1/4" rivets.




Here are the braces that I still need to install.


Minus the few other braces that must be installed, here's one picture to show the end result.


This is a real easy conversion to do and it only took a few hours to get to this point. Minimal hand tools are required. I have the advantage here because I used an air-powered tool that allows me install 1/4" rivets easily.


That's all for now. I hope you enjoyed this segment. More documentation, and yes, pictures to follow. I'll address the missing braces and weather strip installation.
Lunatic AUG 03, 07:49 AM
As I said at the beginning, I'm looking to make this into a fast back car. I've been scouring the net looking for a "reasonably priced" fast back parts car. Well, there are too many people that think these cars are worth their weight in gold. Well I got lucky. Luckier than most as I found a complete, almost untouched 87 GT in a local salvage yard. I was told I could buy the whole car for $600, or buy only what I needed. So, for a paltry $250, I bought "everything" I could use from this parts car! I bought: the fast back section, rear deck lid, both vents, both tail lights, both bumpers, rocker and door mouldings, all the round trim, door locks, carpet, almost all the interior, seats and seat belts, all the clips, nuts and bolts.

With a little elbow grease, and some cleaning products, these parts will look good.


x-thumpr-x AUG 03, 10:24 PM
Hope you got the decklid vent retainers to that are bolted to the strut towers. Another member bought a complete car and forgot to take them off when he scrapped the frame. DOH!
Did you get the rear harness for the tail lights too? They are different then the notchback tail lights.

One day I'll need to go for a drive out your way, busy right now with another swap underway
Lunatic AUG 04, 08:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by x-thumpr-x:

Hope you got the decklid vent retainers to that are bolted to the strut towers.
Did you get the rear harness for the tail lights too?
One day I'll need to go for a drive out your way, busy right now with another swap underway



Hey Adam, you still lurk on this forum? Lol. I got "everything" related to the fast back, including the vent retainers and wiring. I ended up with the back half of Rob's 88 and I'm going to use that instead. I have found the 88 vent retainers from another member and I'll be picking those up hopefully within the week. So in reality, I'd like to find a nicer rear deck lid and then I have everything to finish this conversion. You're welcome to pop in any time. If you do, can you bring the missing T-Top roof molding?

Another swap you say? Whatcha working on?

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 08-04-2014).]

Quad Raider AUG 08, 01:34 PM
I love threads like this. Thanks for taking the time to post all the photos and descriptions.

Your welds look fantastic. Are you using MIG or TIG?
Lunatic AUG 09, 08:34 AM

quote
Originally posted by Quad Raider:

I love threads like this. Thanks for taking the time to post all the photos and descriptions.

Your welds look fantastic. Are you using MIG or TIG?



I'm glad you like this build, I do too! It's my pleasure to show photo's and descriptions of what I've done along the way. This is good for reference, work logs, and/or appraisals.

In the front suspension swap and the rear cradle, all the welds were made using a MIG welder. I'm using a 230 volt Lincoln with Autoweld shielding gas. The rad saddle was TIG welded as it's more precise.
Lunatic AUG 09, 08:53 AM
Only a little progress this weekend. I installed the under-the-window-ledge brace.




While I had my carpet out, I noticed the floor drain plugs were non existent. So I made four new ones out of galvanized steel.


While I was under the car, I also noticed the brace below the fuel tank was very ugly. No problem, I made one of those too!


If I have any spare time this weekend, I'll try to finish off the welding on the rear cradle. I need to cap the ends, install the trailing arm brackets and finalize the rear sway bar mounting points. Then a quick sand blast and it's off to powder coat.
Lunatic AUG 12, 07:31 PM
After working all day, there simply isn't enough time to get too much done. I did manage to minimize the Cavalier wiring harness down to what I need. I'll be using the BCM as well as it has some features that I'd like to utilize. A/C input for one. The Cavalier ignition also has PASSLOCK II integrated into it. I'll only keep this in place until I remove it using HP Tuners.