quote Originally posted by The_Stickman2: I am SOOO jealous.

- but you have this to work with. What's the status on your engine? Can you update your thread?

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/069905.html

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 11-17-2008).]

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-04-2019).]

Engine is in the car!! What'cha think? Looks good to me

A general view of the engine as installed. I managed to find and ceramic coated the heat shield for the upper firewall that protects the A/C hoses,
wiring and electrical connector going through the bulkhead. In later years, this electrical connector was moved next to the battery.
This heat shield is different for A/C and non-A/C cars.



The only engine parts we reused were the Crane Gold Race 1.7 roller rockers.



When the head was rebuilt, the hole at the front of the head was plugged and a stock thermostat housing was installed in the factory location at the back of the head.
This allowed use of a stock coolant hose instead of the junk hose/adapters/bypass setup that came with the car.



A new AC Delco pump (TBI uses 14 lbs) had been installed in the fuel tank. In order to use a carburetor, the fuel pressure needs to be cut to 5 lbs,
so a Holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator was installed after the fuel filter. Because of the closeness to the trunk firewall,
a Holley carburetor will not fit due to its overhanging fuel bowls.



There's only about 1-inch of clearance past the end of manifold, so in order to use a Holley, the trunk wall would need modification.
This would be similar to what was done on the actual Pace Car to accommodate the air cleaner, but you can see how tight everything is.



I decided to use an Edelbrock AVS 4-bbl carburetor because its body arrangement fits.
It is a 500cfm carb but that's the smallest they make (a little too big, but more on that later).
Edelbrock Performer/Thunder carbs are essentially clones of the Carter Super-Quad AFB/AVS series of carburetors.
The Edelbrock carbs are cast by Weber these days.



Part numbers
Edelbrock Thunder AVS carb PN 1803
Holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator PN HLY-12-803
Holley fuel pressure gauge PN 26-500
AC Delco fuel pump PN EP386

Here's where the installer of the SD4 seemed to give up when they installed the engine with the Weber sidedraft carbs.
The carb requires connection for the throttle cable, cruise cable and transmission TV cable and the Webers only had a bracket for the throttle cable.
In addition, a TPS is also required on the throttle for the ECM to control torque convertor lockup. There's no "off the shelf" brackets for any of this.



For my carb setup, I decided to adapt and modify the "throttle wheel" setup GM had used with 87 and up TBI Duke engines.
An 87 Fiero throttle cable, cruise cable and TV cable all connect to this wheeled contraption and only 1 cable then attaches to the carb's throttle.
This simplifies everything!



The wheel also gives you a 90-degree turn, allowing the control cables to run between the valve cover and carburetor.
A TPS was also attached to the bracket and connected to the carburetor's throttle.



An open-topped air cleaner from a Cavalier Z24 was mounted in the same area where the air cleaner is located in later model V6 Fieros.
The stock cruise control parts (vacuum canister, diaphram, solenoid etc) were removed and a less bulky Delco electronic cruise unit was installed below the air cleaner.



Some wrecking yard searching yielded two flex air pipes to connect the 3" aluminum tube that is plumbed from the air cleaner to the ATI carb bonnet



Getting at the Duke's oil filter has always been a problem. From above, it's basically under the alternator and unreachable.
From below, it's not bad with a manual transmission and bloody awful with an automatic (likely why 88's had the filter IN the oil pan).
It's IMPOSSIBLE with the added length of the 4T60 4-speed auto. You can't even see the oil filter!



A Trans-Dapt remote oil filter adapter had already been installed on the engine and I decided to make good use of it.
There's a way to keep these from leaking. I bought the remote oil filter bracket, mounted it, and got new braided lines made up to connect it.



I decided to put it in the right wheelwell beneath the "shelf" on the trunk's right hand side. Braided lines carry oil to/from the engine.
This location make oil filter changes much easier. The wheelwell liner/splash shield protects the installation from road debris and the filter can be reached from below the bumper with an extension.

It's also not a big deal to pull the tire and a portion of the wheelwell liner if needed. I do my own oil changes - can't trust anybody with this

UPDATE: Removed remote filter stuff when I switched to a Getrag 5-speed. The stock filter location is OK with a manual transmission.

Part numbers
Trans-Dapt remote oil fiter - spin-on bypass PN 1050
Trans-Dapt remote filter bracket PN 1045
WIX oil filter PN 51516

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 03-04-2019).]

quote Originally posted by Toddster: This thread ROCKS!

Thank you! I think some people are too shy or awed to say anything!

I've seen more comments on somebody's new shifter knob.

Engine finished and the car was on the road in August 2007

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-23-2012).]