Rebuild of Indy Fiero #163 Super Duty 4 (Page 21/29)
Fierobsessed OCT 17, 07:25 PM
No big deal if you need to re-tune. You've probably wrapped your head around what works, whats needed and what you don't need to touch. So you can start over, well informed of what you're going to need to attack.

I've been working with tunerproRT for many, many years. It really is a pretty dam awesome program. For tuning fuel trims, I usually wire my wide band O2 sensor straight to an unused 0-5V input so that it logs in the datastream. Sometimes I can just wire it into something like a deleted corrosivity sensor input, or deleted EGR feedback, but often I have to liven up an unused input, add a read from that pin, and add the value to the datastream. It sounds like a lot, but once its done, tuning gets way easier!

Then, in tunerpro, I create a datastream variable that looks at the current fueling corrections, (INT + BLM) and the end result from the wide band, and makes a correction factor. I use a hystegram to log the averages of this correction factor into a table scaled similarly to the main VE table, then export the data to Excel and have it build me a new VE table based on the one I used when logging and the correction factors. I smooth out the table, then its good to go. I can usually nail it down in 2-3 log and program sessions. If you are interested in this process I can probably help out. But, I don't know how what your process and help is like already.
Danyel OCT 18, 12:05 AM

Can you tell me what intake bowl set up you you have there or what its from .... THX Reread your thread ATI polished aluminum carb bonnet BEAUTIFUL!!!

Danyel

[This message has been edited by Danyel (edited 10-18-2014).]

fierosound OCT 18, 10:21 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fierobsessed:

No big deal if you need to re-tune. You've probably wrapped your head around what works, whats needed and what you don't need to touch. So you can start over, well informed of what you're going to need to attack.




I'm paying someone to do the tuning. He's having to start over.

Everything else you just said is pretty much gibberish to me ...
I gotta get educated on how to use TunerPro...

We're running $12P
http://pcmhacking.net/forum...241b1b92ed947d905bf7

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-05-2015).]

fierosound OCT 18, 04:52 PM
Engine won’t start at all now. Just floods till you smell gas and stop cranking.

Ho-hum --- another summer pissed away. The SD4 is not all it's cracked up to be.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 10-18-2014).]

edfiero OCT 22, 08:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


Ho-hum --- another summer pissed away. The SD4 is not all it's cracked up to be.




Sorry to hear that. I was hoping yours would be 'purring like a kitten' or a tiger by now, so as to give me some hope for my SD4 build. I'm finding it frustrating just finding the right parts sometimes. I ordered a bunch of parts from Summit then ended up sending half of them back because there were wrong, didn't fit, etc.

Times like tihs when I miss my old Impala SS. Just buy a new LT-1 Stroker crate engine, drop it in, and off you go.
fierosound OCT 24, 06:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

Sorry to hear that. I was hoping yours would be 'purring like a kitten' or a tiger by now, so as to give me some hope for my SD4 build.



If you can find the parts, putting it together is not the problem. There's little documentation on what plugs to use, plug gaps, timing to use etc.
You go with "common sense" and get it running, but you're never sure if it's as "right" as it could be.
We're still working on getting the tune for the fuel injection, but winter is on my doorstep.

SD4 gets HORRIBLE gas mileage if you put your foot in it around town, fast starts at the lights or really boogying with it. (about 50 miles on 1/2 of an 84 tank)
BUT it is hard to drive this engine slow when it's driving reasonably well. About 20-25mpg cruising on the highway in 5th gear at 70 mph.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 11-06-2014).]

AzRick JAN 21, 12:51 PM
I LOVE this thread !! I'm building a Duke very similar to this motor build but a different car and have a few questions. I'm using the SD4 iron head and the Edelbrock SD4 intake, what distributor did you use (HEI) that fit under the intake? I have the motor almost done but just found this site and love it. If you have time, I could PM you my questions. Thanks for building this as it helps me decide how to go with the next build (SD4 aluminum head)

AzRick
fierosound FEB 07, 11:54 AM

quote
Originally posted by AzRick:

I LOVE this thread !! I'm building a Duke very similar to this motor build but a different car and have a few questions.
I'm using the SD4 iron head and the Edelbrock SD4 intake, what distributor did you use (HEI) that fit under the intake?



For a carb'd engine, the big cap HEI fits, but is tight and awkward to work with once it's in the car.
An external coil small cap HEI (w/vaccum advance) from a carb'd 1982 Citation w/Duke engine should work.
It has the weights and springs you can change to tailor the advance curve.




You can always use the "big cap" one from a carb'd Pontiac/Jeep with 151 Duke engine.
(have the HEI I used in a box since I switched to TBI and computer controlled distributor)
(generic Proform pic below) http://www.summitracing.com.../pro-67093/overview/

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-22-2025).]

E.Furgal FEB 07, 01:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

Not much interest in any of this?? But someone paints their GT yellow and there's 5 pages of comments?

Here's what I did on the interior. It was completely removed and a thorough cleaning of the door panels and all other components was undertaken. The floor mats and carpeting was steam cleaned. The sun-faded "blue" speaker grills were recovered with new speaker fabric. The shifter surround and shifter plate were reglued.

While the interior was out, sound proofing was installed as well as a new stereo system.
To still maintain a "factory" look a Pontiac CD player was installed, but high-end equipment was used in all hidden locations. New Clearwater speakers were installed in the seat headrests and Infinity component speakers went in the dash.

A factory sub-woofer housing with a Tang-band sub went into the factory location.


To power the sub, a Xtant 1.1i 100 watt mono amp was used. This tiny amp really delivers and is perfect for the job because it can be installed under the passenger seat.
Complete stereo writeup here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum3/HTML/000031.html

When I received the car, the radio surround was terribly warped and needed to repaired or replaced.


The lack of an oil pressure gauge in the instrument cluster REALLY bothered me because I consider that the MOST important gauge to have. That's why I installed GT gauges and a new radio surround. It's "factory", looks correct, does the job and I needed to replace the warped radio surround anyway. I still have a 2nd voltmeter in the tach, but that's not a big bother.

How to add the gauge cluster: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/093286.html

I never did like the original T-bar type automatic shifter and most others eithers are either too big (Cobra head type) or look wrong (aftermarket aluminum). I found something perfect from 84-96 Corvette - a small size, top-button, dark grey leather wrapped knob that suits the car's interior perfectly. This is smaller than a similar design used in other GMs like Cavaliers, Grand AMs etc. I mounted it on a shortened shifter shaft and installed a new leather boot I purchased from Rodney Dickman.


The previous owner sold the original "mint" Indy seats. Although the Mr Mike's leathers were nice, I'd have preferred a set of originals, but another set of mint seats are few and far between. As luck would have it, we found some OEM red embossed Indy seat fabric which I purchased and had sent off to Mr Mike. Mike did up a beautiful set of repro Indy seats.
I cleaned up the rusty seat rails and repainted them and bought the proper light grey color recliner covers to replace the incorrect dark grey ones the seats in the Indy came with. Once assembled, only an Indy purist would notice that these are not the original seats. The only difference is that the backs of the seats aren't grey fabric like the originals.

The terrible condition of the sunvisors and headliner required that they be replaced. I bought new sunvisors and a headliner recover kit from the Fiero Store. It was a bit of work, but I successfully recovered and reinstalled the headliner and the new visors. I also added the coathooks - 84's didn't have any.



More to come. The engine is next...

Edit: pictures added




did you add the mirror to the sunroof?
E.Furgal FEB 07, 03:34 PM
sorry about your efi issues,,
What was the reasoning with going with/back to an "o.e.m." ecu?
With this engine, big ports,(head and intake) big flow.. why not got multi port.. getting the fuel out of that large intake plenum , that at the rpm you'll most likely be running at 75% of the time, will just puddle fuel on the intake floor..
a simple missing tooth wheel behind/infront(depending on room, {junkyard crawl part) of the balancer you could even have sequential EFI , injectors and injector harness are only a junkyard away..
4cly harness and 3800 s/c injectors.. measure the intake port spacing and you might find an oem fuel rail that work is off a quad4 or a echotech , then just have the injector bungs welded to the intake..
sell that fancy "fast" TBI unit, and get a 82-88 CCC-q-jet and take the venturi guts out, and now you have a 4 barrel Throttle body with a Throttle position sensor , real cheap,, and won't be to big,, and if you leave the venturi gut alone, it'll work just like every q-jet only opening the secondaries when the engine needs it or you mash the pedal to wide open.. you just might need an adapter if that intake is only drilled for a square bore carb baseplate..
many others have used the 4.0 ford v6 explorer throttle body..