Sourmug's Decklid Vent Build ** 56K Warning!!** (Page 20/69)
Sourmug JUN 19, 12:13 AM
I would say that you could use it too. You may have to do some slight modifications but I don't know that for sure.

Nolan
Comealongway JUN 26, 04:09 PM
Hey Nolan where did you purchase your power wire from for your battery, I found autovalue for 3 dollars a foot 1AWG (copper), and out of Visions 3 dollars a foot for 4AWG (silver). Did you find anywhere cheaper, i tried princess auto to see it they maybe had some welding cables, but they where out, not sure if they had what i wanted anyways.
fierosound JUN 26, 05:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Sourmug:

I do think that I need to do something to the front facia, not quite sure what yet though. Any suggestions?




Leave the fascia alone. The changes you've made are subtle and will enhance the car's original lines. Because the fascia is essentially the "face of the car" anything major done to it may push it up one notch to that "just one thing too many" category. There's many car owners (especially ricers) who didn't know when to stop and wound up wrecking the looks of their car.
Sourmug JUN 27, 12:45 AM
Hi Tony:

After some thought, I too have come to the conclusion that the front facia is fine as is. I also agree that it's quite easy to go too far. How was the car show by the way?

quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:

Hey Nolan where did you purchase your power wire from for your battery, I found autovalue for 3 dollars a foot 1AWG (copper), and out of Visions 3 dollars a foot for 4AWG (silver). Did you find anywhere cheaper, i tried princess auto to see it they maybe had some welding cables, but they where out, not sure if they had what i wanted anyways.




Comealongway:

I have not yet started the installation of the battery box so I have yet to do any research into the cables. It sounds like you have though, let me know what you decide to go with. Out of curiosity have you tried any of the welding supply shops in town to see what they carry?

Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

Comealongway JUN 27, 11:13 AM
Noramco Wire adn Cable 291-2955

4AWG Welding Cable $5.60 a meter
2AWG Welding Cable $7.80 a meter

Princess Auto (250-1133) 4AWG-1AWG (out of Stock) 99cents - $2.99

So i think I'm goign to hit up Autovalue today adn at least get a Positive Lead
Sourmug JUN 30, 12:00 AM

quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:

Noramco Wire adn Cable 291-2955

4AWG Welding Cable $5.60 a meter
2AWG Welding Cable $7.80 a meter

Princess Auto (250-1133) 4AWG-1AWG (out of Stock) 99cents - $2.99

So i think I'm goign to hit up Autovalue today adn at least get a Positive Lead


Comealongway:

Thanks for the cable info! A + for you.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

Sourmug JUN 30, 12:22 AM
I have been doing some work on my car as of late however, not on the body. I was thinking of starting a new thread but what the heck I will just continue to post in this one.

Lately i have been working on the suspension and I am finally at the point where I can start putting things back together for a change rather than just tearing stuff apart. Progress is being made!!!

You know, The only thing that was "wrong" with my car was that the clutch blew out. Here's the thread about it:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...041015-2-049172.html
All I had to do was replace the clutch and I would have been good to go. But, NOOOO, maybe I'll do and engine swap once the cradle is out. But then I need to add some side scoops. Or change the deck lid, or the hood. Of course the suspension needs to be done, bigger brakes....

*Sigh* Anyways, here is the condition of the front suspension when I started.
The right side:


And the left side:


[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

Sourmug JUN 30, 12:38 AM
So let the demolition begin:



As you can see, lots of general clean up is required but over all the rust is minimal. In order to neutralize the rust I am using a product called Rust Mort (the green liquid). This product reacts with the rust rendering it inert and the color change from "rust" to "black" indicates that the process is complete. I clean the part off first and wire brush it to get rid of the really crusty chunks. After the Rust Mort is applied I usually let it sit overnight before I wash it off.


This stuff is an acid so make sure you wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using it.

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

Sourmug JUN 30, 12:51 AM
After the pieces are cleaned they are then given a prime coat.

And while all that was going on the wheel well itself was cleaned and painted.

And we of course had to have the ubiquitous "burning of the bushings" ritual/festival with great fire light and chanting in a circle as we burn the bejeebers out of the control arms. All this is necessarily done in secret to avoid angering the Eco-terrorists by producing great clouds of black acrid smoke which rise high into the sky as a blight upon the skyline of our fair city.

The control arms were then primed and painted with little ceremony:

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]

Sourmug JUN 30, 01:21 AM
I did have one hitch though. When I was removing the sway bar one of the bolts on the left side chassis bearing broke off almost flush with the underside of the space frame. There was a little bit sticking out but not enough that any of my tools could grab onto it. I did try welding a nut onto it by placing a nut over the bolt shaft and welding the nut to the bolt shaft through the hole in the nut. After about a dozen or so attempts ( ) at that point I gave up on that method. Welding upside down is not nearly so easy as "normal" welding. I could get it welded but not strong enough, it would just spin off.

OK, so then I tried to drill it out and use an easy out. No luck there. These bolts are hard little suckers and even though I did manage to get a strait pilot hole that was more or less centered but when I went to a larger bit I totally messed it up. *sigh*

The third method was to cut open the side of the frame where the bolt and interior nut are. Using a thin cutting disk in the angle grinder I cut out three sides of a square leaving the bottom attached and bent it out to expose the culprit. The remaining bolt shaft was protruding through the nut and I was able to weld a nut on it and extract it though the top of the nut. Sorry no pictures, I was too busy looking for thing to throw around the shop, I didn't want the camera to be one of them.

Once the bolt was out I hammered the opening flap back into place and welded it shut, primed and painted. Voila:


Thats it for tonight.
Nolan

[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]