Looking really good. If I wasnt so lazy I would copy some of the stuff you have done. I had time today to take a picture of my overflow bottle setup. The original hoses were printed on them where they went. So I just copied that .The large hose and one of the small hoses go back to the engine, the big one on the hose that has the tee on it and the small one to the fitting on the cyl head. The other hose I put to the puke tank fitting on the Fiero rad. Worked great at a hot track day on Thursday in Grand Bend.

The hose under the tank cap is just open to the ground. I should put another catch can under that I suppose.

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 07-22-2017).]

Today, I spent some time working on electrical.
My power mirror switch backing plate was very loose and not making good contact. I cut one from a parts car and installed. Both power mirrors now work.
One more item checked off the "to do" list.


As you know, I've swapped in a 2.2 Ecotec into this car. Since I'm using the stock PCM and BCM, and not the Cavalier cluster, I needed to make the Equus aftermarket tachometer work with the Ecotec. Here's how I did it.

By looking at the 2003 Cavalier wiring schematic, a tachometer trigger signal is sent by the PCM through the serial data line and to the cluster where it's converted.
Since I'm not using the Cavalier cluster, I had to go about this another way.

Looking at the PID value charts was useless as it merely states, "Not Used" on several pins.


By using an oscilloscope, each pin labeled "not used" was checked.
Success was present when pin 32 on the blue connector showed an open collector output for a tachometer.

Since I had an aftermarket tach that doesn't have an internal "pull-up" resistor, I had to add one.
Note: I didn't have a 1K ohm (1000) resistor handy but I had some 1.2K (1200) ohm resistors in my collection.

The pull-up resistor pulls the open (collector) output up to +12V.
When the output transistor turns on, its collector terminal is connected to ground.
Hence the output is a square wave from near-ground to near +12V.

Here's the schematic that made it all work, simple really.
Note: My PCM part # is: 12576162




Since pin 32 was not used, there was no wire coming from the connector. I took another PCM harness pig tail and removed a white wire.


Remove the turquoise clip and unlock the connector.


This leads to exposed terminals and wires. I took a white wire just because.


On the car, I had to undo the clip and disassemble the connector.


Since cavity 32 was unused, I had to drill a small hole in order to place the connector through.
Here, you can clearly see the white wire protruding from cavity 32 on the blue connector.


I extended this new white wire to the stock Fiero harness.
I then chose to add the pull-up resistor in the back of the instrument cluster.
In this location, I could tap into the two electrical points that I needed.
-The green wire is the tach signal wire.
-The resistor is then attached to the signal wire and the opposite end attaches to a keyed-on +12V.


A little video to show that it actually works.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 11-19-2017).]

Having cut the bottom of my trunk out, I now needed to fill the hole back in.
After a brief session with AutoCAD, I now had a trunk floor.


A few minutes spent on the laser yielded the following component made from 16 gauge steel.


I needed to weld in a piece of light angle in order to support the rear trunk floor.


Here's the piece welded in.
For those that don't like counting, there were 98 holes that I had to plug weld.


Liberal application of seam sealer followed.


While I still need to paint the trunk floor, it'll have to wait for a warmer day.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 02-06-2018).]

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 02-04-2018).]