When I was under the dash I found this plug near the back of the radio.
Is this the plug for the addtional aux guages?
I have a 1986 Sport coupe.




I also found a spare plug above the rear window defroster - what option (that I don't have) is that for?


The Nitrous wiring is all done and wasn't to bad to install.
I followed these instruction here :

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/nozzlesystem.pdf

The GM jetting info is here:

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/gmjetting.pdf


My favourite part of the instructions is this paragraph at the end -

"DO NOT LISTEN TO:
A. YOUR BUDDY!
B. YOUR BUDDY’S FRIEND!
C. THE LOCAL NITROUS GURU!
D. ANY ARTICLE IN ANY MAGAZINE
If you follow the foregoing suggestions, your NX system will operate trouble free and provide years of thrills. ABOVE ALL REMEMBER TO RACE SAFE AND HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

Good Advice in my book - we've all heard Nitrous horror stories

The system features:

1. Hobbs switch (Fuel pressure safety switch)
2. Bottle pressure guage
3. MSD RPM digital window switch
4. WOT switch

Here is a couple shots of the arming switch. I mounted it in the console and will probably change it over to a red lighted rocker switch I found in the garage today, as it is less obtrusive than the one that came in the kit:






I also called Mark, the owner of Street and Performance who sold me the 92/93 LT1 ODBI ECM/harness.
Since I couldn't get the tach or speedo working, I finally called for his advice.

For the tach, he says I need a digital interface - not quite sure what that is but of course he sells them... not sure if I should be buying it from Arizona or if I can buy it locally though. That might explain why I couldn't get a tach signal off that white wire or with a tach filter off the white coil wire either.
I tried connecting the tach wire (white) from the ECM to the MSD RPM box and it is supposed to show rpm while the engine is running and it never went above 0rpm, so it doesn't work on that either.

For the speedo, he recommended plugging in the VSS plug from his harness in the governor and splicing the Fiero yellow to his purple wire and the Fiero purple to his yellow (reversed).
I temporarily did that (see below) and the speedo still didn't work
I am trying to dig up my V8 Archie video, but so far no luck finding it. I do remember that he splices both together before plugging in though.
Could I possibly have the wrong wires? I don't really see any other purple and yellow ones though.
The reason I ask is because the purple Fiero wire has 12V on it when IGN is on - should it?
When I had Purple to Purple and yellow to yellow connected at the VSS, the turn signal / backup light fuse blew!
I might also have a problem in the VSS itself, but I haven't tried replacing it yet.
I think it is working because the engine runs/drives better when it is plugged in from the LT1 computer.

VSS plug:




Wiring setup as suggested by Mark, owner of Street and Performance:




I explained that I had replaced the pulse style generator in the governor for the green gear driven one that the Fiero came with.
He said either with work with his ECM but I do need the Fiero style one for the speedo to work.

No fuses are blown anywhere, so I am running out of things to check.
It going to be tricky removing the governor cap with the header collector right there but I'm going to try next week.

On another note, while I was poking around the wires, I found and labelled the fan control wire and the temperature idiot light wire.
If I didn't sell my iron duke for $200 I might still have had the sensors I needed for them - at least they are labelled for a future date.

I also ordered a set of Nitrous plugs NGK TR6 as the NGK TR55's won't be a cold enough range.
While I was at KC auto parts, I found aluminum collector gaskets as the paper ones leaked and burnt.
I picked up grade 8 bolt and metal lock nuts at Nut and Bolt Supply and will let the muffler shop install them for free next week since the catalytic burn mark on my chest is still there...

Last thing I got today before the cruise night was picking up the capacitors to modify the tach.
I bought them at The Source (Radio Shack) in a variety pack that will get me the 0.0064 micro farads I need.
I realize that it isn't the most accurate way of doing it, but with an automatic trans and the digital window switch, I'll be fine.




My son thought putting this on was a good idea, althought it kinda gives people a heads up - not sure if it will stay on yet...




No shots from the cruise night as my camera battery died and I ordered 2 new ones, but I lost my voice talking about the car.
My son couldn't believe the crowd around a car that isn't even close to being finished


Sorry for all the questions!
I actually don't mind if they go unanswered - I feel better already just ranting and venting
Everytime I run into a snag, I work on something I like better for a awhile before a new strategy comes together.
However, I'm still not a fan of electrical wiring and it obviously shows - this is when I think of the Mercruiser engine I almost bought for this swap

Instead I have this bucket-O-wire!




Fiero2m8 is getting the weekend off as I'm heading up north to a family party.

Cheers!

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-18-2006).]

quote Originally posted by Fiero2m8: YES, PAGE 5! I KNEW IF I MADE THE POST LONG ENOUGH I MIGHT GET MY OWN PAGE THIS TIME There, you've be warned it's long... When I was under the dash I found this plug near the back of the radio. Is this the plug for the addtional aux guages? I have a 1986 Sport coupe. I also found a spare plug above the rear window defroster - what option (that I don't have) is that for?

Ryan,

I'm not sure if that's the aux guage plug or not. My car is an 85, so I didn't have that one when I added the guages, but for what it's worth, there are only 5 or 6 wires max going to the aux gauges (ground, +12, the two signals, dimmer control, maybe one more?). That connector looks like it has at least 6 wires coming from it. Does your car have cruise? I discovered a spare connector under my dash behind the console this winter when I had it all apart. I looked through the wiring diagrams and found that it was related to the cruise control option that my car doesn't have.

The extra connector above the defrost is where the rear decklid release goes. Nice thing is that you can add the option by getting the switch in the car, relay and trunk wiring and solenoid. That's what I've read anyway; my car came with it so I've never done it. It's supposed to be an incredibly easy mod. I'm sure an archive search should turn something up.

Hope this helps! Also wish I could help with your VSS troubles but that's well beyond this amateur

Andrew

[This message has been edited by 85SE (edited 08-29-2006).]

Yesterday I removed the VSS / governor assembly to make sure everything mechanicallly is moving fine.
They appear to be fine. I was glad that the header clearance was a non-issue as once the bolts were removed, it could be swivelled slightly to remove the assembly:




Next I removed the NGK TR55 plugs and discovered a couple problems:

1. The number #2 wire was slightly off the optispark distributor causing a misfire and a rough idle.



My new colder NGK TR6 plugs were installed and gapped to .035" for the Nitrous application.
2. The front (normally driver's side bank) was running very rich due to a header / collector gasket leak (burnout)

I replaced both gaskets with dead soft aluminum ones for a permanent fix - the shop recommended installing them with metal locknuts. I picked up grade 8 bolts and metal lock nuts in place of the ones in the package.
I also had the grind the collector flange flat first as it was warpped from a previous overtightening mistake.




Checked again after the engine was up to operating temp and resnugged nuts and let them cool - finally no exhaust leaks
Sounds much better and it most importantly solved the rich condition (the O2 sensor was fooled into thinking the bank was lean due to the leak causing the ECM to richen the mixture for safety)!

Fiero2m8

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-03-2006).]

Here are a few shots of the car cleaned up a little for tonight's cruise night:




The engine compartment was looking pretty good in the sunlight after it's first proper detailing job:




Even the front compartment was cleaned even though I usually don't leave it open at shows:




Hey, my sunroof still fits, so when I sell it, I can deliver it too




My friend was still trying to convince my wife Kim that people are 3 rows deep checking the engine swap out at cruise nights - she didn't believe him until she stopped by at one this week



About 100 new faces tonight in Niagara Falls, but they wouldn't stand still enough for the night setting on my camera

I also experimented with the ground effects again but they don't look right to me. I think they will be removed again even though they hide the x-frame completely.

I was very lucky to borrow a GM Tech I handheld scanner from the local dealer, so I am going the use that and Data Master I downloaded to determine why the engine is running rich and the exhaust is hotter than normal.
I was post more details this week.

Ryan

P.S. I switched the Nitrous jets to #24 NO and #20 Fuel (150 HP) and let the system do its thing tonight for the first time in 2nd gear - I WAS SPEECHLESS . If you're never experienced a sprayed car before, I highly recommend going for a ride in one, or better yet drive it !!!


------------------

1986 Fiero2m8 (LT1 NX / 4T60 Roadster Build)
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/071642.html

[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 09-11-2006).]