LS4 / F40 swap - fieroguru (Page 125/216)
fieroguru JUL 30, 04:08 PM
I finally finished plumbing in the copper air lines to both bays. I ran the compressor up to 90 psi and I am letting it sit to check for leaks, but I didn't hear any. Edit, after 2 hrs it is still holding 90 psi, so it is leak free!

Without the cooling fan running yet, the inlet tube is too hot to touch, but the outlet tube is barely warm. I think that the longer the compressor runs the fan will likely be needed. I need to bring home my IR temp gun and let the compressor run for about 30 minutes with one the lines cracked open so I can see how well the system controls the temp of the air and traps water.

Here is the compressor installed. There is a quick disconnect right off the prison door section.


Here is another drop at the other end of the tool bay.


Here is the last drop in the 2 car bay and by the mill. It has 2 quick disconnects. The top one will have a hose connection to the regulator/filter. The bottom one will be hooked to the air chuck on the mill.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 07-30-2017).]

shemdogg JUL 30, 07:43 PM
Bro your garage looks awesome, cant wait till I have a decent sized garage. Thats a whole lotta copper pipe! seeing that pipe w the ball valve reminds me of a freinds dad. he had a 1" pipe w ball valve hooked up to his compressors 100gal air tank that he would open w a rope whenever the neighbors got too loud. He showed me one time and my ears hurt being in the house lol good times

shem
fieroguru JUL 31, 07:19 PM
Thanks! My garage is a work in progress.
The tool bay is 13 x 25, but I can't fit a car in there.
The main bay is 21 x 19 and mostly open except the mill in the corner. A Fiero will fit in there, but to pull the cradle, I will likely need to use the whole bay and have the Fiero sitting at an angle. I soooooooo want to expand the tool bay, but need to get it past the HOA (limited to 3 car garage attached to the house). What I would like to do is tear down the tool bay, shift it back about 8' so it can be 16' wide, then make it 30' deep, and on the back of it make a large "rec room" (with dual door access to the garage that a Fiero will fit past) that I can use as my tool bay and leave the 3rd bay for work. This would still only allow 3 cars in the "garage", but a 4th project car in the tool bay, and improve my driveway parking... just dreaming of the garage mahal....

This compressor dryer project did use 80' of 3/4" tubing. 40' in the prison door and 40' with the routing of the drops in the bays. I have a couple of burnt fingertips from all the soldered connections, and I was amazed that the used propane bottle lasted the entire project.

24 hrs and the tank and pipes are still holding 90 psi... I think it is good.
fieroguru AUG 05, 09:19 PM
I picked up a Pontiac accessory storage bag several weeks back and started working on making it a tool kit for the LS4/F40 Fiero.
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/097633.html

Here are all the tools and stuff in the bag so far:



After what seams like forever... my European/Diesel F40 is in the USA and at the Indianapolis facility. I should be able to pick it up at a Fed Ex location in Champaign on Monday evening!

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-05-2017).]

Bob2112 AUG 05, 09:50 PM
Please post pics and as much details as you have time for of the gear swap on the F40!

Also, just notice that Spec sells the LS4/F40 clutch and flywheel now thanks to the note on your webpage. Do you know how they compare to the flywheel you designed and the spec clutch set you sourced for this build?

------------------
New Moon Rising - 1988 Black Formula
My Blue Heaven - 1965 Mustang Coupe

fieroguru AUG 06, 09:48 AM

quote
Originally posted by Bob2112:

Please post pics and as much details as you have time for of the gear swap on the F40!

Also, just notice that Spec sells the LS4/F40 clutch and flywheel now thanks to the note on your webpage. Do you know how they compare to the flywheel you designed and the spec clutch set you sourced for this build?




One of my customers is using the Spec flywheel and clutch setup. I had him check a few critical dimensions and all indications at that time were that it would work just fine.

The overall shape and style of the flywheel are similar, but the pressure plates are different. Spec had F40 flywheels for the 3800 and N* long before I made mine and the placement of the pressure plate fingers once installed looks like what they did for the 3800/F40 setup with the fingers extending past the pressure plate to take up some of the excess space. My setup doesn't do that.

Spec's LS4/F40 Flywheel:


Mine:


Spec's Clutch Disk:


Mine:


Spec's Pressure Plate:


Mine:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-06-2017).]

fieroguru AUG 08, 08:53 PM
My new toy arrived from the UK. First thing I did was confirm 1.92 rotations of the input shaft for 1 rotation of the differential in 6th gear (vs. the 2.21 for the G6 F40). It is indeed the 3.09 final drive!

Some obvious differences from the G6 F40...
Bellhousing pattern is different.
Shifter setup uses a 2 bolt flange vs. the 3 bolt setup
HTOB connection is different
No VSS sensor
Reverse switch is in a different position
Differential bolt pattern on bellhousing side is different (looks like it has the bosses for the AWD setup)
Gearside of the differential has a lot more ribbing/reinforcement

Originally, I just wanted the swap the final drive to the G6 F40 case, but now I might have to explore swapping the gearside of the transmission case as well. To do that I will have to rework my rear transmission mount, shifter bracket, extend the reverse light wires, do "something" for the VSS and there might be some other issues with the mounting of the catch can and ecm. The extra ribbing might interfere with the cradle some as well.

Bellhousing:


Differential bolt bosses on the bellhousing side:



Ribbing on gear side of differential:



Shifter mounting flange:




Front side of transmission:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-08-2017).]

Trinten AUG 09, 05:04 PM
I'm going to ask 'the dumb question' -- is it impossible or more difficult to swap all the guts from one case into the other? I imagine the exterior changes were for getting it to work in UK chassis... but excluding the gear ratio, wouldn't all the internal dimensions of the cases be the same?
fieroguru AUG 09, 05:39 PM

quote
Originally posted by Trinten:

I'm going to ask 'the dumb question' -- is it impossible or more difficult to swap all the guts from one case into the other? I imagine the exterior changes were for getting it to work in UK chassis... but excluding the gear ratio, wouldn't all the internal dimensions of the cases be the same?



In theory you "should" be able to do a complete guts swap from one case to the other, but that needs to be verified to know for sure. The primary issue with that is that the guts swap would get you the 3.09 final drive, but it would also bring over an even crappier 1st gear.

To get the hybrid gear setup, I will have to tear down the input shaft, both intermediate shafts, and swap over the differential gear. That just gets the desired ratios. At that point it shouldn't matter which case I use, but GM changed the shifter setup to reduce the neutral rattle, and the later model case appears to be stronger. If I want these additional benefits, then I will need to do the additional work to use the later model gear side case.

code:

Trans	Final Drive	1st	2nd	3rd	4th	5th	6th 	
G6	3.55		3.77	2.04	1.32	0.95	0.76	0.62		
MYJ	3.09		4.17	2.13	1.32	0.95	0.76	0.62	

Hybrid	3.09		3.77	2.04	1.32	0.95	0.76	0.62
Trinten AUG 09, 07:52 PM
Got it, so to use the old case and get all the ratios you want, it would be more work because of a more involved tear-down. And to your point, the new case may be much stronger (which I think makes sense, since AWD would be heavier shock loading, right?)