quote Originally posted by Lunatic: There are a few more area's that must be addressed. After removing the factory bracketry, you can clearly see the back two mounting locations are floating in the air.

The bracket that's already been removed from here already has the bolt hole in the right location fore/aft and left/right... it's just at the wrong height. It's easier to section the stock bracket to raise the mounting pad to the right location then weld it back together. That way you also retain the stock captured nut and don't have to deal with loose hardware.


I knew it was close but I never took the time to see how close. There you go folks, great information for all those that are looking to do the 88 crossmember swap. Thanks Will for pointing out this alternative.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 12-23-2014).]

quote Originally posted by Lunatic: Thanks for the reply. Indeed, I could replicate and modify the parts that you've shown and come up with an equally nice component for the Fiero. I've also posted another option. The below items can be bought fairly inexpensively and they provide adjustability which is nice as it can compensate for different offset wheels and such. I like both options and I'll keep you informed as to what route I go with.

Did you make those solid rod ends yourself? I've been looking for similar parts to meet some specific dimensions.
My personal opinion is nothing but spherical bearings for the '88 lateral links.

Also, are you going to raise the inner pivots relative to stock?


When I started my build, I only had 84 parts to use. Soon after, I found the 88 specific uprights locally. I then had to find stock lateral links and radius rods since I never had them to measure from. A guy I know is also building a Fiero. These are the links from his car. They're made by Bicknell Racing in St. Catherines Ontario, Canada and I'm not sure if he bought the ends like that or made them.

Their part numbers: 13170 for the long bar, 13090 for the rear lateral bar, 13080 for the front lateral bar.

I was going to get a set but since I already bought stock 88 pieces, I'll probably just use them. I also have spherical joints, swage tubes and the special seals. I think I'll save them for now.

I did not raise the inner pivots and they are still in the stock location. I now see the benefit of raising the mounting points and I will probably do this as my cradle hasn't yet been powder coated.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 12-23-2014).]

I work out of a small garage and space is sometimes at a premium. Now with two additional Ecotec engines on the floor, I need to make a little room. As you know, I have one complete, running L61 Ecotec and two mystery core engines. I want to install one as a stock runner and enjoy it for a while as-is. The next one, I'd like to have a little more power and I'd like to freshen it up.

Mystery engine "B". Notice the loose timing chain?


Rusted cylinder walls and water jackets damaged in three places!


When a timing chain slips on the interference Ecotec, bad things happen!










Holes in all four pistons from valve stem parts dancing around the combustion chamber.


Mystery engine "A".
This one turned over a little tight but it's way better shape internally than the other one




Ringland on cylinder one was damaged/missing.


All 16 valves look okay.


In all, I have one good core and I can salvage a few parts (intake, sensors, oil pan, etc) from the "parts engine".

Note: Early Ecotec engines had a poorly designed cam chain tensioner. Do yourself a favour and get the "upgraded" version. They're cheap and will prevent damage like shown above.

[This message has been edited by Lunatic (edited 12-26-2014).]