Remove Rear Lid ‘87 GT (Page 1/3)
Gene1000 AUG 26, 01:19 PM
Hello all,
I need to remove the rear deck lid on my ‘87 Fiero GT. I’ve read everything on this page and I’m still a little concerned.

Is it as simple as removing the four bolts that hold the lid on to the brackets as someone wrote?

Also, everything I’ve read indicates to put plywood on the rear window to protect it. The problem is that there is no room to do this when the lid is raised. The plywood would rub against the lid itself causing damage. But I could put a heavy blanket between the window and the lid. Whether this will be sufficient protection, I don’t know.

I don’t have anyone to help me. I’m thinking of putting a blanket over the engine so I can rest the lid on it assuming I can remove it safely. I have already removed the wing.

And as far as reinstalling the lid, how can this be done safely? Is it installed from a lifted position by aligning the four bolt holes? is it possible for one person to do this? I don’t see how it’s possible for one person to accomplish this.
1985 Fiero GT AUG 26, 02:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by Gene1000:

Hello all,
I need to remove the rear deck lid on my ‘87 Fiero GT. I’ve read everything on this page and I’m still a little concerned.

Is it as simple as removing the four bolts that hold the lid on to the brackets as someone wrote?

Also, everything I’ve read indicates to put plywood on the rear window to protect it. The problem is that there is no room to do this when the lid is raised. The plywood would rub against the lid itself causing damage. But I could put a heavy blanket between the window and the lid. Whether this will be sufficient protection, I don’t know.

I don’t have anyone to help me. I’m thinking of putting a blanket over the engine so I can rest the lid on it assuming I can remove it safely. I have already removed the wing.

And as far as reinstalling the lid, how can this be done safely? Is it installed from a lifted position by aligning the four bolt holes? is it possible for one person to do this? I don’t see how it’s possible for one person to accomplish this.



It is just the 4 bolts and whatever electrical harness for the trunk release. You should put something there, because if either one of the retaining straps on the hinges are broken, that hinge will go into the window, there should be room. It is possible to remove and reinstall entirely by yourself, but it is extremely difficult, and I only attempted that after successfully having someone help me about a dozen times. For the first time, you need someone to help, otherwise a "surprise" (like a hinge releasing and swinging towards the window) could upset your balance and cause a lot more damage. Once removed is easiest to just lay it down on some grass, don't worry about pulling it up and off, then bringing it back in to lay it on top of the engine, by the time the lid is out of the hinges, it's halfway off the car anyway, easiest to just put it on the ground. It isn't heavy but it is unwieldy.
Gene1000 AUG 26, 02:41 PM
Thanks, ‘85.

I think I can get it out by myself, but reinstalling it is another matter.
I can cover the engine with heavy blankets and lay the lid on them. But I assume that I must lift the lid on its end to reinstall it because the hinges will be angled up and not horizontal. I hope I’m wrong.

At this point I’m not sure what I’m going to do. The purpose in removing the lid is to get to the rear plugs. I tried getting a socket in there with the lid on but couldn’t do it.

And now after removing the oil dip stick, I can’t locate the hole where it goes back into. There are hoses and brackets everywhere. I checked the drawings and know where the slot is supposed to be, but after shredding my hands and fingers, I still can’t locate it. After everyone stops laughing, I’d appreciate any advice. I removed the large hose at the thermostat housing, but I don’t wish to go any farther.

I love the car, but it’s hell to work on.

Patrick AUG 26, 02:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by Gene1000:

I don’t have anyone to help me. I’m thinking of putting a blanket over the engine so I can rest the lid on it assuming I can remove it safely.





quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

When I remove the decklid, I place a large piece of corrugated cardboard (ie the flattened box from a hot water tank) on the roof, and then I stand in the trunk and lift the decklid onto the roof.

The cable restraints on the hinges will prevent the hinges from hitting the rear window... but just in case they're corroded and/or damaged in some manner, place a length of wood along the entire width of the rear window before removing the decklid. It's very unlikely to occur, but you sure wouldn't want an accident resulting in a broken back window. Better safe than sorry.
Patrick AUG 26, 02:50 PM

quote
Originally posted by Gene1000:

The purpose in removing the lid is to get to the rear plugs. I tried getting a socket in there with the lid on but couldn’t do it.



The rear plugs are easy to get to. It's the front ones which are more of a challenge. All that's required though is a 3/8" drive ratchet, a 3" extension, and a spark plug socket. A universal may also be required, but I forget, as it's been years since I've needed to change the plugs. (And yes, I put anti-seize on them.)

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-26-2025).]

Gene1000 AUG 26, 02:54 PM
Disregard the post about the dipstick. I was looking in the wrong place.
Gene1000 AUG 26, 02:57 PM
Bad wording on my part. I was referring to the plugs adjacent to the firewall (rear of engine looking from the trunk).
Gene1000 AUG 26, 03:03 PM
Thanks, Patrick.
Good idea standing in the trunk.

Did you have help reinstalling the lid or tackle it on your own?
Patrick AUG 26, 03:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by Gene1000:

Did you have help reinstalling the lid or tackle it on your own?



I have no friends... I'm forced to do it all on my own. Seriously though, I re & re the decklid by myself. When placing the decklid back down onto the angled-up hinges (again, while standing in the trunk), I have some folded corrugated cardboard down near the rear window to sort of help hold the decklid in place when being reinstalled.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 08-26-2025).]

cvxjet AUG 26, 03:27 PM
I replaced the front (Firewall-side) plugs a few years ago- What I did was to release the Engine torque link, and then release the subframe REAR bolts- with a jack under the rear of the subframe!- and then tilt the engine/subframe down a few inches at the rear which opened up the access to those front plugs- sounds crazy/complicated, but it is very simple and worked well. No harnesses or water lines had to be un-done....

Also, I used compressed air to blow away any debris in the plug holes BEFORE I removed the plugs- had a whole pile of leaves, dirt and other debris on the floor under the car afterwards!