Few small questions that don't deserve a whole topic (Page 1/4)
1985 Fiero GT APR 07, 01:36 AM
*answered. 1: So I recently upgraded to the 105 amp cs130 alternator from the 65 amp si alternator on my 85 gt, the si had a small rounded/indented heat shield with insulation underneath bolted between the alternator and the exhaust manifold. Do I need that on the cs130, as the hole for the bolt is about 2 inches off, so I would need a second hole in the heat shield, and it doesn't look great anyhow, so if I don't need it, I won't use it. *Answered.

2: how is the por15 stuff, is their high temp paint good for Fiero exhaust manifolds, engine enamel good for intake/valve covers? I had just done my exhaust in vht ceramic stuff, and it's not "sticking" to the metal, almost like a dusty coating after 3 months, my intake I did with duplicolor, and it looks good, but will be really easy to chip and there are some imperfections.
I would use the aluminum color for the exhaust, as close a red as I can find for the intake/valve cover (either the engine enamel or a top coat paint) with the top coat clear coat on top of that (sealing the bare aluminum) would I be able to just put the por exhaust stuff right over the not so great ceramic stuff, maybe they'll mix and be ceramic por15, or it'll all just peel off later?

3: are there any "numbers" on Rodney's and others power pulleys, actual hp gained, actual responsiveness gained from lower rotating mass, etc.

*Answered. 4: What amount of timing advance can be had running low octane normal pump gas, 10* stock, I've been running 12* last summer, probably going to advance it a bit more tomorrow, maybe 13-15* what is considered safe maximum? *Answered.

*Tested and works well. 5: does Maguire's ultimate liquid wax work to gloss tires up? I know it works on basically everything, I have it on all my interior surfaces, rims, intake, valve cover, light lenses, weatherstrips, and it should be safe on rubber, just wondering if anyone's tried it, and whether it works as well as the more damaging tire sprays, and maybe lasts longer.

*Answered. 6: in the fuse box, there are numbers printed by each fuse that seem to roughly correlate to what should be in there, are those numbers the actual fuses that should be in there (specific to that car with the options that it has) or seemingly random, with the real fuses being the 1 size fits all that an internet search brings up. My fuses are mostly different, but all close to the number (15 instead of 20, vise versa). *Answered.

I think that's all I have, of you have an answer to one, all, or none, no problem, didn't want to clutter the list with 6 seperate topics that are only useful for a little while.
Thanks!

[This message has been edited by 1985 Fiero GT (edited 05-01-2024).]

Patrick APR 07, 02:19 AM

quote
Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT:

So I recently upgraded to the 105 amp cs130 alternator from the 65 amp si alternator on my 85 gt, the si had a small rounded/indented heat shield with insulation underneath bolted between the alternator and the exhaust manifold. Do I need that on the cs130, as the hole for the bolt is about 2 inches off, so I would need a second hole in the heat shield, and it doesn't look great anyhow, so if I don't need it, I won't use it.



Yes, you need a heat shield... but you want one like is used on the '88 V6 Fieros. Unfortunately, it appears all the images I've previously posted here of this shield have disappeared... along with the other 100,000 lost PFF images.

You could try This.
Frenchrafe APR 07, 04:28 AM
To answer your No6 question, you shouldn't put a higher rated fuse in a lower consumption circuit. If the circuit has a fault, it's best to "pop" the lower rated fuse and then try to track down the fault. If you just put in a heavier fuse then you are just asking for melted wiring and/or an elecrical fire!
I think the numbers do correspond to the fuse rated for that circuit.

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Patrick APR 07, 05:10 AM

quote
Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT:

What amount of timing advance can be had running low octane normal pump gas, 10* stock, I've been running 12* last summer, probably going to advance it a bit more tomorrow, maybe 13-15* what is considered safe maximum?



Every engine is different. If you advance the ignition timing too far, you'll be sorry.

Have a look at this thread - Changing the timing for more power
1985 Fiero GT APR 07, 07:39 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Yes, you need a heat shield... but you want one like is used on the '88 V6 Fieros. Unfortunately, it appears all the images I've previously posted here of this shield have disappeared... along with the other 100,000 lost PFF images.

You could try This.



Alright, perfect, thanks, I drilled another hole in my old shield, so it does fit on the new alternator, I'll keep it there then.
1985 Fiero GT APR 07, 07:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by Frenchrafe:

To answer your No6 question, you shouldn't put a higher rated fuse in a lower consumption circuit. If the circuit has a fault, it's best to "pop" the lower rated fuse and then try to track down the fault. If you just put in a heavier fuse then you are just asking for melted wiring and/or an elecrical fire!
I think the numbers do correspond to the fuse rated for that circuit.




Yeah I know that higher rates fuses are bad, just wondering what the right fuse is as all I have to go off of are the old fuses and the numbers, which aren't exactly the same. I'll adjust my fuses to match the numbers today. Thanks
1985 Fiero GT APR 07, 07:49 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Every engine is different. If you advance the ignition timing too far, you'll be sorry.

Have a look at this thread - Changing the timing for more power



Ok, thanks, I guess I'll have to wait until my Fiero is back on the road to do the timing, last summer I removed the distributor, original timing was 4* I set it to 12* and it performed noticeably much better. My engine is in very good shape, runs 0-60 a full 2 seconds quicker then my dad's Fiero, and a similar time to the tests done by magazines when the car was new. I also do run high octane usually (ethanol free), but go back to low octane when I'm driving it enough to go through a tank a week I wouldn't be surprised if I could get 14-15*, but I'll have to wait to test that on the road as I turn it up.
fieroguru APR 07, 11:38 AM

quote
Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT:
Ok, thanks, I guess I'll have to wait until my Fiero is back on the road to do the timing, last summer I removed the distributor, original timing was 4* I set it to 12* and it performed noticeably much better. My engine is in very good shape, runs 0-60 a full 2 seconds quicker then my dad's Fiero, and a similar time to the tests done by magazines when the car was new. I also do run high octane usually (ethanol free), but go back to low octane when I'm driving it enough to go through a tank a week I wouldn't be surprised if I could get 14-15*, but I'll have to wait to test that on the road as I turn it up.



Since you have an 85, you might want to install and enable a knock sensor before you start getting aggressive with ignition timing. Aggressive timing, without a knock sensor is just asking for a busted ring land, hole in a piston or spun bearing,
1985 Fiero GT APR 07, 11:45 AM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


Since you have an 85, you might want to install and enable a knock sensor before you start getting aggressive with ignition timing. Aggressive timing, without a knock sensor is just asking for a busted ring land, hole in a piston or spun bearing,



I'm not looking for super aggressive timing, just wondering what was common and safe, I'll make sure that it runs well with low octane, but I'll usually use high octane anyways.

Regardless, what would be involved in doing that? If it's as simple as bolting something on, that's good, if I need to replace or program the ECM, then that won't be something I'll be able to do.
theogre APR 07, 04:24 PM

quote
Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT:
3: are there any "numbers" on Rodney's and others power pulleys, actual hp gained, actual responsiveness gained from lower rotating mass, etc.

All are "scams" & worse Slows Down everything w/ Under Size Crank Pulley.
Example: If you have any problems w/ coolant system now then expect overheating way easier. Even CS Alt will hate running slower results make less power. Even @ highway speeds often have power shortage, worse @ night/weather w/ Headlight & more On too.

see https://web.archive.org/web...fierocave/csalt2.htm

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