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| Problems with clutch master or system holding pressure (Page 2/4) |
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olejoedad
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NOV 02, 08:49 AM
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The smart thing to do is to buy a new master and slave from Rodney when doing clutch work.
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handymanpat
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NOV 02, 09:34 AM
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I went on Rodney's site last night and put in my order for the slave.
I had no idea the junky rebuilds had that problem.
I did not order a new master but I did the slave.
It makes a lot of no sense and explains my issues I'm having.
Thank you guys so much and I will post my results!
Pat------------------
pat moody
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olejoedad
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NOV 02, 01:16 PM
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Brian D
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NOV 02, 09:17 PM
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Just a question, but how exactly are you bleeding the system? Bleeding the clutch line is a bit different than bleeding brakes. You want to open the bleeder, then press the pedal down, close the bleeder, then let the pedal return quickly. If you press the pedal down first, then open the bleeder, you will likely aerate the fluid. A one man bleeder is a huge help here, I would highly recommend one.
If bleeding checks out then I'd go with the recommendation of the others that your master is probably shot. They tend to fail together.
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handymanpat
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NOV 02, 09:34 PM
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I tried several methods including sucking it from the slave with a brake hand pump, gravity bleeding, pedal bleeding.
With the pedal bleeding we did single slow pumps where we pushed down the pedal and held it and I cracked the slave bleeder just enough to pop the pressure and then after closing the bleeder we would slowly lift the pedal and repeat.
We have also tried doing slow 3 pumps and faster pumps and each time the pressure built and held it would disappear after a trip around the block.
The crazy thing is that it would then again build pressure again while I sat and pumped for a little bit but once again would not hold.
I am convinced it is the remanufactured slave I got from AutoZone and it is somehow sucking just enough air in to wreck the pressure.
I would spurt a little bit of air or bubbles when I would bleed the slave again.
I will use the Rodney slave and try these methods you guys mentioned and post my results.
I sense victory soon!------------------
pat moody
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handymanpat
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NOV 02, 09:38 PM
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I forgot to mention that I did order some one man bleeder valves but I have not tried the method of opening the valve, having the pedal pressed and then closing the valve and quickly l lifting the pedal.
I will try that tomorrow and let you know!
Thanks Pat------------------
pat moody
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Larryinkc
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NOV 02, 11:01 PM
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Spadesluck
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NOV 03, 11:12 AM
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Pat, I just replaced my master with Rodney's a couple days ago. I had already used Rodney's slave rebuild kit a few years ago. It is fairly easy to accomplish. I bench bleed the master then put it in the car, and then had my wife pump the clutch for me to bleed the slave. Super easy with parts that are in working order.
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handymanpat
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NOV 03, 12:12 PM
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I'm looking forward to getting this thing working.
Once I install Rodney's slave I will do the process to need it and then I'm looking forward to hitting the road!
I got an email this morning that it shipped!------------------
pat moody
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Brian D
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NOV 03, 07:42 PM
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The pedal method you stated will cause the fluid to aerate. By pressing down the pedal first you are disengaging the clutch, engaging the clutch springs. When you release the bleeder the clutch is quickly reengaging as opposed to pushing fluid/air out of the system it is pushing some back into the system. The process should be open bleeder, depress pedal, close bleeder, let clutch pedal free return (not slow as you stated). Its easier with a one man bleeder cup where you can just open the bleeder and pump away as long as you keep fluid in the reservoir and don't over fill the catch cup.
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