Sat For 20 Years...Need Help With Diagnostic For Rough Running / Stalling (Page 3/6)
CampyBob JAN 11, 12:29 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:


SO annoying to have to drop the tank again after you just replaced the fuel pump.



Yeah. I'm not 'oh so pro' when it comes to wrenching, but I take my time and at least try to cover all the bases when I have things torn down that far. The tank drop wasn't really all that bad...other than the stench of that rotten old gas! I watched a Youtube video or two on how to do it and got it safely lowered and ready to clean in in about an hour. It took longer to get the car up on jack stands and safety blocks in place.

Thanks to all of you guys for the advice so far! Seriously, the internet has made working on these somewhat complicated engine management systems easier and I think we should all be glad I'm not working on that Jeep 'Renix' (Renault-Bendix) POS system! That thing had me swearing in three languages and I ended up replacing every sensor on the thing before I figured out the temp sensor on the block was the incorrect unit for my vehicle! Talk about chasing my tail for a month...

I will get back under the Fiero tomorrow. Time to get it back up in the air today. No big deal. I'll flush the tank out a few more times, double check the fuel pump/sending unit work, inspect and replace any fuel lines that even look like they are problematic. Sure would be easier on a rack! LOL! My old back and shoulder blades feel like I lost a fight with a bear after sliding around on that cement floor!


David Hambleton JAN 11, 01:02 PM

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Originally posted by CampyBob:My old back and shoulder blades feel like I lost a fight with a bear after sliding around on that cement floor!



I use sheets of cardboard from boxes from large purchased items when I'm on the cement or wood floor. So much easier to slide on & provides some cushioning.

[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 01-11-2020).]

Patrick JAN 11, 02:32 PM

quote
Originally posted by CampyBob:

I'll flush the tank out a few more times, double check the fuel pump/sending unit work, inspect and replace any fuel lines that even look like they are problematic.



We don't know for sure that it's a fuel pressure issue. I hope you double-check the fuel pressure before dropping the gas tank for a second time.
CampyBob JAN 12, 08:27 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

We don't know for sure that it's a fuel pressure issue. I hope you double-check the fuel pressure before dropping the gas tank for a second time.



Trying to borrow a pressure gauge tomorrow.

What is the minimum PSI for the 2.5 to operate normally on?


CampyBob JAN 12, 08:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:


I use sheets of cardboard from boxes from large purchased items when I'm on the cement or wood floor. So much easier to slide on & provides some cushioning.




I wore a heavy coat, but the kerosene heater got it so warm I was taking it off all the time. Cardboard is a great idea. Didn't have the car much more that 'the tank should clear things when I drop it using the trolley jack' off the floor. If I had raised it another 4"-6" I would have bought a creeper.

The thing that killed my shoulders was the fuel lines. It was a wrestling match to get the filler and vent and the three small lines off. The four AC line clip bolts and tank strap bolts were easy with the air ratchet. Lots of respect for real mechanics/service techs. They earn their pay, for sure.


Patrick JAN 12, 09:23 PM

quote
Originally posted by CampyBob:

What is the minimum PSI for the 2.5 to operate normally on?



A quick search here (hint hint ) turned up This thread.
CampyBob JAN 13, 09:34 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

A quick search here (hint hint ) turned up This thread.



Thanks, Patrick! Everything I read was saying 10 PSI minimum. I just wondered if all you much more experienced 2.5 / Fiero guys had something otherwise to say. Will try and find a low pressure test rig with a suitable test range.

Before dropping the tank I think I'm going to blow compressed air through every line I can get at to make sure nothing is soft, rotted or plugged. That lack of fuel down through the return line does have me concerned. That's a red flag, based on the replies above. Will also check spray pattern for increase in flow (visually with air cleaner off) as engine is revved up manually at the throttle body linkage.


fierosound JAN 13, 12:10 PM
The Duke TBI system does not have a schrader valve to attach a fuel pressure gauge.

You will need to rig something like this.
http://web.archive.org/web/...ocave/tbiadaptor.htm
Patrick JAN 13, 02:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

You will need to rig something like this...



Tony, to simply test what fuel pressure the system is able to provide, an adapter is not absolutely necessary. There is no need for the engine to be running. I posted the following earlier in this thread.


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I disconnected the fuel filter (it was very clean inside) and connected a fuel pressure gauge onto the end of the fuel supply line. I then jumped terminal "G" at the ALDL connector with 12v from the cigarette lighter to run the fuel pump. The gauge showed a grand total of 4 lbs pressure while the pump was running, and immediately dropped to zero when the power was cut.


[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-13-2020).]

CampyBob JAN 16, 03:22 PM
Busy week...the 0-15 PSI fuel pressure testing kit will be here Saturday morning.

https://www.tooldesk.com/au...Pressure-Tester.aspx

I will post the results of what I find ASAP. Thanks!

[This message has been edited by CampyBob (edited 01-16-2020).]