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| Step by step F23 bellhousing swap info? (Page 1/2) |
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Raydar
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MAY 03, 06:04 PM
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I'm looking at doing the typical F23 install, with the 2.2 bellhousing swap.
Does anyone know how to measure/set up the differential bearings? (I'm assuming it's not just "Slap the new cover half on, and go".)
Anything else I need to be aware of?
Yes. I'm a noob at this. Any help will be appreciated.
Raydar
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modemeagle
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MAY 04, 09:46 AM
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wftb
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MAY 04, 11:56 PM
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One thing to remember when watching this video is that he is doing a complete tear down. You just want to swap out bell housings. All the stuff that was unbolted from the other side of the case can be left alone. You just want to take off the stuff that interferes with removing the bell housing. As you can see, you can take off the bell housing without disturbing the gearset.
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Raydar
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MAY 06, 06:00 PM
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Thanks guys.
| quote | Originally posted by wftb:
One thing to remember when watching this video is that he is doing a complete tear down. You just want to swap out bell housings. All the stuff that was unbolted from the other side of the case can be left alone. You just want to take off the stuff that interferes with removing the bell housing. As you can see, you can take off the bell housing without disturbing the gearset. |
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Yeah. I figured there were a lot of things being removed that I didn't need to mess with, for my purposes.
Still haven't had time to watch the entire thing.[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-06-2019).]
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pmbrunelle
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MAY 06, 06:46 PM
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Why don't you just use a complete transmission with the bellhousing you want?
With this kind of assembly, the differential is supposed to be slightly longer than the space available between both case halves. Therefore, when initially assembled, there is a gap between both case halves.
As you tighten the case halves together, the case halves stretch and squish the differential tightly between the bearing cups. Hence, we say that there is a preload distance, equal to the gap that existed between the case halves prior to tightening.
To measure the preload distance for the differential, I would remove all the other shafts, so they don't influence the measurements. Then, insert a feeler gauge into the gap.
If the preload distance is not within specs, then you should disassemble and modify the shim stack length accordingly. Then, reassemble, and re-measure the gap.[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 05-06-2019).]
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wftb
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MAY 07, 08:43 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
Why don't you just use a complete transmission with the bellhousing you want?
With this kind of assembly, the differential is supposed to be slightly longer than the space available between both case halves. Therefore, when initially assembled, there is a gap between both case halves.
As you tighten the case halves together, the case halves stretch and squish the differential tightly between the bearing cups. Hence, we say that there is a preload distance, equal to the gap that existed between the case halves prior to tightening.
To measure the preload distance for the differential, I would remove all the other shafts, so they don't influence the measurements. Then, insert a feeler gauge into the gap.
If the preload distance is not within specs, then you should disassemble and modify the shim stack length accordingly. Then, reassemble, and re-measure the gap.
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I have to agree with the first statement in this quote. An F23 from a 2002-2004 cavalier or sunbird with the 2200 OHV engine has the correct pattern to fit the 3800SC etc. I guess if you want the perfect final drive it might be worth the work but it wouldn't be to me.
Pretty sure I have seen people on the forum here just do the bare minimum and just pop off the old bell housing and pop the new one on without any problems. Since I have an ecotec 2.2 and F23 in my car, I read most of the F23 stuff that gets posted. Try this thread, lots of good info and a bit of how to stuff and links to other threads. http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/121743.html
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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 05-07-2019).]
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wftb
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MAY 07, 09:27 AM
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Partway in to the swap(in the thread I linked above) you will see one of the main drawbacks to putting the cavalier endbell on to the cobalt F23- The input shaft comes out too long and has to be turned down. Justinbart did this by hand and it came out ok. ------------------
86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms
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Raydar
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MAY 07, 07:07 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
Why don't you just use a complete transmission with the bellhousing you want?
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Actually, I've already got one.
The engine is a stock compression, stock cammed 3.4 DOHC.
The FDR of the 2.2 F23 is 3.94.
I already have a 3.61 Getrag in my other car, and even that is way too short. (Although it is bolted to a 4.9.  )
With the kind of power I expect from the DOHC (based upon the dyno sheet the seller provided, I'm thinking 20-30 more than the 4.9l) it'll probably blow through 1st nearly as quickly as the 4.9 does, even though I've got 2000 more RPM to play with. But I could be wrong.
I will listen to suggestions.
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Raydar
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MAY 07, 07:10 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by wftb:
Partway in to the swap(in the thread I linked above) you will see one of the main drawbacks to putting the cavalier endbell on to the cobalt F23- The input shaft comes out too long and has to be turned down. Justinbart did this by hand and it came out ok.
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Thanks. I had forgotten about that. That might be a consideration, too.
I might just keep the 3.94 / 2.2 box intact, and see what it feels like. I can always do something else, later.
Edit - After seeing that thread, I might just have to run with what I've got.
Still open to suggestions.[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-07-2019).]
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fieroguru
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MAY 07, 09:29 PM
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I spent some time switching back and forth between two 400 fwhp V8 Fieros. One with the F23 and 3.94 final drive and the other with the F40 (3.55)... aside from the super smooth shifting of the F23, I didn't like anything else about it. Ratios were all wrong... way wrong... even vs a stock Fiero 282 (ran one of those a long time behind other V8s).
I would take the time to swap the ratios at the start.
But, it needs to be done properly. It isn't just the differential bearings that have a preload, the other main shaft does as well. The aluminum case expands more than the steel shafts and carriers as things heat up. The preload keeps the bearing preload/clearance within spec at operating temps. The one I worked on had someone else swapped a LSD in and there was close to 1/16" slop in the differential bearings... because they didn't pay attention.
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