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| Door Skin Removal/Replacement (Page 1/1) |
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Dennis LaGrua
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OCT 20, 07:20 PM
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Time to replace a door skin so this is how far I got today. Here are the basic steps
First remove the arm rest and inside door handle plate. Remove the inside door panel using an upholstery fastener removal tool, prying only on the fasteners. Pull away door panel.
Take off the big rubber weather piece at the end near the mirror by removing three phillips screws
Remove the outer dew wipe. ( many methods covered here over the years)
Remove the 10mm nuts holding the outside mirror, pull mirror out and disconnect wiring connector. (power mirror option)
Remove the plastic rivets along the very bottom of the door with a hammer and 1/8" punch. .
Remove the six plastic covered Torx bolts on the inside, three on the rear of the door and three on three front. A small 1/4 " impact wrench helps but sometimes the heads strip out. On the ones that strip remove with vice grips.
Remove the exterior door trim piece by gently prying up with a screwdriver. Remove the two hex screws under it. Pull out all of the trim fasteners. They will break and new ones will be needed.
Now the skin is loose but is held in place by the lock mechanism it seems. This is where I need to study up on how it should be removed. If I can get past the lock the skin will come off.
Anyone have a tip on disconnecting the lock mechanism???? ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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imacflier
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OCT 20, 08:07 PM
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Dennis LaGrua
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OCT 20, 11:47 PM
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Thanks, found it! Apparently there are two rods that need to be disconnected before the skin can come off. The lock rod and the door handle rod. There are clips that hold them on. Remove the clips and after the disassembly steps, the skin is easily removed. Should be able to get this done tomorrow ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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Rodrv6
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OCT 21, 09:11 AM
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Just a note, it's not necessary to remove the outer dew wipes or the side trim attach clips except for the one that is held in by a screw. Replacement trim clips are available from the Fiero Store.........
The door lock rod has a clip that needs to come off, the door handle rod can stay attached to the door skin. It will pull straight up out of the latch mechanism, no clip removal needed.
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Rod Schneider, Ball Ground, Ga.
"You can't have too many toys!"
1988 Fiero GT
1988 Porsche 928S4
1987 Corvette
2001 Chrysler 300M
Van's RV-6 airplane[This message has been edited by Rodrv6 (edited 10-21-2015).]
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Dennis LaGrua
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OCT 21, 12:45 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Rodrv6:
Just a note, it's not necessary to remove the outer dew wipes or the side trim attach clips except for the one that is held in by a screw. Replacement trim clips are available from the Fiero Store.........
The door lock rod has a clip that needs to come off, the door handle rod can stay attached to the door skin. It will pull straight up out of the latch mechanism, no clip removal needed.
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Got the skin off today. Thanks for the tips. Not a real hard job, removal of door panel, inner dew wipe, door trim, 2 hex screws under it Torx bolts, mirror and push fasteners at the bottom of the door skin pretty much gets it off. Only one clip on the lock rod and it does lift right off. The big PITA is removing the plastic head Torx bolts without stripping the heads, and removing the door trim piece without snapping the clips. If you can manage saving 60% you have done a good job. Now onto removing the damaged panel and putting the good one back on.
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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rogergarrison
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OCT 23, 06:45 PM
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On Philips or Torx screws, i usually put the driver in the screw head and tap it a few times with a small hammer to loosen it before I try unscrewing it. Usually will save stripping out the head. I always try to break it loose by hand first, never just go at it with power tool...less likely to slip.
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Dennis LaGrua
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OCT 24, 10:01 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by rogergarrison:
On Philips or Torx screws, i usually put the driver in the screw head and tap it a few times with a small hammer to loosen it before I try unscrewing it. Usually will save stripping out the head. I always try to break it loose by hand first, never just go at it with power tool...less likely to slip. |
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Good tip about tapping the Torx head bolts before trying to remove them. I have had luck trying to unscrew using a small 1/4" air ratchet. The turning action of the 1/4" air ratchet is only about 30-35 ft lbs. , less severe but it will strip the heads if you are persistent. The success rate of getting these Torx screws removed with the small air tool seems a bit better but I can't say for sure.
UPDATE Just did another door skin removal today. Was able to easily remove five of the Torx bolts with a #30 Torx socket. Two stripped out so I just ground away the plastic on the bolt heads and amazingly there is a #40 Torx fitting below. They are then easily removed using the #40 Torx socket as you are going metal on metal. The small #30 Torx socket is formed only in the plastic layer. Does that make sense?
Additional tips: Align before tightening the Torx bolts, When you install the original lock cylinder, just remove the two 11 mm speed nuts that hold the lock plate and pull the assembly from the old and reinstall in the new skin. Dor forget the fasteners at the bottom of the door skin. While the outer skin is off, oil the lock mechanism, the power window mechanism, and the guide tracks. The door will open, close and lock like new and the window goes up and down effortlessly. .
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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE " [This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 10-26-2015).]
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Vintage-Nut
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NOV 26, 10:50 PM
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| quote | Dennis LaGrua:
Remove the plastic rivets along the very bottom of the door with a hammer and 1/8" punch |
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I'm making a list of door hardware, and I found all the parts I need expect those plastic rivets along the very bottom of the door.
Does anyone have the TFS part number or an equivalent?
Happy Thanksgiving to All
VN
PS - TFS shows only two "plastic rivets" - #83026 LARGE {23/32" Flange} or SMALL {1/2" Flange} with no mention about the door.....
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Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 11-26-2025).]
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Stingray92
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NOV 27, 05:47 PM
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I believe the 1/2 is the one you want. I'm close to putting mine on but haven't gotten there yet.
It would be nice if Fiero Store would sell bulk/box quantities of this hardware.
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Vintage-Nut
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NOV 28, 02:41 PM
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Thanks Stingray92 and you're correct - my plastic rivets were 1/2-inch OD too.
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