Haters will say it's photoshopped... I drove it to work yesterday, probably should have done alot more tuning first, but it made the trip ok, and I datalogged the whole thing so I could make changes before going home.




Tuning changes made while I was at work made a massive difference, but some of that may be placebo, I capped the throttle at 30% but when I did that, I put it in the 100% accelerator position row, meaning I would have to mat the gas, to get to 30%, while I was at work, I realized this was a terrible idea, because every time I raised the cap, I would have to relearn the throttle, so now, the table looks like this:



I also started looking at acceleration enrichment a little bit closer, previously, AE was based on throttle position only, with the option for MAP based AE. I decided to enable the MAP based AE, I think it is probably a good idea for a five speed car, as the clutch can be manipulated independent of throttle, and cause the engine to require more fuel enrichment. right now, I have the AE split 50/50 TP/MAP, I'll do some playing around with it and see what happens.

I did not drive it to work today, weather forecast calls for rain, my wipers work, but my headlights are terrible at best, I ordered a set of relays from Ballenger Motorsports, and am going to add them into the headlight circuit to get them a more direct path back to the alternator. I have a spare headlight harness that I will rework so I can still drive the car when the weather permits. Honestly, I don't really want to drive it in the rain even with working headlights if I can avoid it. The gear on the driver's side motor is also stripped, so I ordered a pair of Rodney Dickman's headlight gears to replace them, I'll rework both motors when I replace the harness.

I'm having issues with noise on the VSS still:



it's become annoying enough for me to begin looking at modifying a hall effect type sensor to replace the VR sensor on existing currently. I'll get dimensions of the existing sensor, and then see if I can either make an adapter for another sensor, or adapt a generic threaded sensor like this:

https://www.diyautotune.com...ffect-threaded-body/

I really don't like that one, because there's no connector, and it requires a pull up resistor, it's also not an off the shelf part that I can get anywhere, which could make future replacement difficult, it also has a threaded body, which will have to be sealed somehow.

I think a better option may be to adapt a camshaft position sensor for a LX9, I'm fairly certain it's a smaller diameter than the existing VSS, meaning I should be able to make a bushing for it to fit the F23 five speed, then it just needs to be tabbed for the hold down(s).

I recently discovered that Wilwood manufactures a drum in hat parking brake designed to fit under several of their hats. I've been considering developing a new set of knuckles for the car to accommodate a better(lighter) brake package, so I may shoot them an email and see if they have any useful drawings they I can use for my development. I suspect they will decline, but who knows.

https://www.wilwood.com/Har...?itemno=249-12660/61

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 01-20-2022).]

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 01-21-2022).]

quote Originally posted by zkhennings: Good to know! I will probably ask you more questions when I get to this point, those are all good reasons to let the MS2 know that the car is moving. And Eric that's cool, is the LX9 cam sensor a weird form factor like the LZ9 one? I know that MS likes GM sensors, but Subaru cam sensors have a really good form factor for your application. The URL tool seems broken but if you search for a Subaru cam sensor I think they are the same part from the 90s until 2010 so there are a ton of them. They are small, short, and have a single bolt mounting solution. Not sure if it would require a pullup resistor or anything like that. They are cheap and readily available. My LZ9 cam sensor is massive compared to it. Might be a non-issue but just a possible option.

google shows a 2 wire sensor for the subaru cam position sensor, so it is most likely a VR sensor. I would be surprised is the LZ9 and LX9 cam position sensors aren't directly compatible.

I made a sensor mount, it's bigger than it needs to be, and has way more available adjustment than needed. I didn't have a good way to measure the angle that the mount would need to be to bolt to the trans, so a slot provided enough adjustment, unfortunately, I made the slot a bit too long, and it hits a boss on one of my other F23's I have, maybe the same boss doesn't exist on the trans in my car? worst case, I take a grinder to it in that area and have an open ended slot.








I wired up a connector with some Tefzel sheilded wire for the signal wire, I plan on installing it later this week, maybe tomorrow?

I also got in new gears for the headlights,




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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 01-22-2022).]

I installed the cam position sensor in the transmission, at first, it didn't work at all, I pulled the whole thing back out, and found that I machined the adapter a little too tall. I trimmed it down, and it appears to be working, it also seems to be running much more consistently. before installing it, I was having a bad hunting idle, and it was very inconsistent. at the start of a drive, it would idle great, towards the end, it would idle like crap. now, if it runs good at the start, and I don't change anything, it still idles good at the end. now my biggest issue is sync loss at about 5400 RPM, I've hit it a couple of times, and am hoping some adjustments to my ignition coil mount will make it go away. if not I have a few more tricks up my sleeve.

I picked up a CNC Plasma cutter, and made the first cut last night, I'm hoping I should be able to make some cool stuff with it.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

for those of you running an MS3, if your crank position sensor is in the crankcase, and not external, and you're experiencing sync loss at 3800-5800 RPM, your sensor may have particulate on it, affecting the accuracy of the sensor.





the material on this sensor was ferrous, but the sensor being removed from a 2005 model engine, could have accumulated all of that over about 18 years of service, and an untold number of miles, for now, I'm going to tell myself that the material is wear products from the stock cam, lifters, timing set, and rockers, all of which are no longer in the chat.

after replacing the sensor, the engine now revs happily to the limiter. at this point, I have restored my timing and fuel tables back to individual tables, instead of having 2 tables each (4 total) to improve resolution. while doing this reduces resolution, it makes tuning a little easier.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper