LK9+F40 (Saab turbo LSJ) swap (Page 7/9)
KillerFrogg APR 17, 02:17 AM
Been trying to work on the car while work is shut down.
Ordered FieroGuru's F40 bracket and shift cable kit, (hopefully) all of the hardware for the fuel system, and another 12lbs of filament for printing more mock up parts.

Currently printing parts to mock up all of the turbo to intake piping. Should only need three 90* sections and a few short sections of straight pipe.

With the nicer weather coming up this weekend I'm going to try and get the power train in the chassis and the last engine and trans mounts made up, then can start on the plumbing after that.
La fiera APR 17, 01:03 PM
That's a lot of work KF! Its coming along very nice though, keep pounding!
KillerFrogg APR 17, 09:58 PM
Printing mock up parts today with what's left of my cheap filament. Boring stuff but don't have much to post about.
Did the 90* bends in halves to make printing easier. Also means I can rotate them with out having to cut them up. Those are with the car right now.
The turbo outlet to 3in is a 2 part that is meant to be either bolted with 1/4-20 or just a zip tie. It is a nice tight fit with the pipe clamp ferrule so its just pressed together right now.
A while ago I re-cad the weld on ferrules for the Vibrant wiggins pipe fittings. Only printed 2 at the time so I printed the other 2 for the 2nd clamp.
Also cad and printed some joiners to make working with the printed pipe easier so the joints are clean and concentric.

Doing mock up for the intake with printed parts is nice. Easy to cut and modify. Everything just goes together with super glue, the material is cheap, none of these parts are more than $1 or so in filament.
I have a 12x12x16in volume printer with a 1mm orifice nozzle parts like this print very fast and are more than strong enough. The build volume means I can print lots of parts at the same time.

Turbo adapter. Just puts the fitting in the correct location. Will need to make and weld an adapter to the turbo outlet.



Pipe clamp ferrule.



The half 90*


Joiner


12inx3in pipe section. Not much else to say.
KillerFrogg APR 22, 12:29 AM
More progress yesterday and yesterday. Yesterday got the new car shell up on the lift and went through and stripped out everything from underneath. Gas tank, heater core lines, rust, rust, and more rust, crappy brake lines. You get the idea.

Today went and cleaned up the mess from yesterday, went through my pile of interior parts and half put everything in the car to free up some space in the barn and also to keep everything half way safe. Also dug out some of the parts that were in storage that I am going to need in the near future.

The fun part, I did the first rough test fit of the engine/cradle in the bay. Very happy with where everything ended up and how everything looks. The chassis is still about an inch or two high from sitting on the cradle. This car previously had the cradle solid mounted, and the rear cradle spacers and bolts are rusted solid to the frame.
Need to get the torch out and apply some heat to break the rust free to get the spacers off before I can set the chassis on the cradle.

Of note, the intake has LOTS of space to the firewall. No clearance issues. I'm happy with the way that it turned out. Just need to get the real part made.

On the back side, I will need to clearance the trunk slightly for the turbo. I plan on taking the step out of the front side of the top area of the trunk and extending the lower angled trunk wall up to the cross wise reinforcing bar. That should give enough clearance for the turbo with heat shielding and wont be that noticeable. I'll cross that bridge later though.
La fiera APR 22, 12:01 PM
Is it the picture or the engine looks too far back?
KillerFrogg APR 22, 06:36 PM
The rear of the cradle is a bit lower than the front right now, so it will tilt a little forward when it is properly bolted in, but looking at some of the other builds with these engines, as far as I can tell its just about in the same location. Compared to the duke these engines have a bit of a lean toward the rear of the car. As long as the axles end up straight and the jack shaft is level left to right I don't care too much where the engine ends up.

For reference, look at where the rear of the timing cover is in relation to the strut tower, and it looks like it is just about lined up with and a little behind the middle strut bolt.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 86FieroCentPa:




I did cheat a little, the rear cradle mounts are lined up but the fronts need to come up about 1" in order for them to be "in place". The only place this might be an issue is the supercharger snout which as I said I plan on addressing in the near future. Part of the reason the front cradle mounts don't slide right in are these:
KillerFrogg APR 25, 12:28 AM


Potato quality photos but eh. I may be a photographer but I'm too lazy to get my good camera out or get it dirty.

Car is off the lift, cradle is properly bolted to the chassis, and its on its own four wheels.
Axle alignment looks good.
Exhaust is going to be.. fun.. eh all part of the challenge.
Bushings are on order to build the last engine and trans mounts and should be here soon. Lost of other stuff on the docket still. Lots of rust repair to do, but I need to get a mig welder in first. I could tig it but I don't want to take a year to do all of the welding.
Fuel, water, all of the normal stuff.
KillerFrogg APR 29, 06:15 AM
More progress. 12ft of 2in 065 wall steel box section got here yesterday to rebuild the thoroughly rotted out upper frame rails.
Already have sheet around for patches in the floor and a few other spots around the bottom of the strut towers.
The trunk corners turned to dust long ago but those are going to wait. When its time for those I am going to outsource that job to one of my brothers that has been helping me and a friend that wants to learn how to do this kind of stuff.

Got the rear halo and bumper off to get to the frame rails. The bottom and sides of the rails are basically gone, but the tops on both sides are good so I gave good material to tie into there and thankfully around the strut towers and everywhere else that the the rails need to tie in are serviceable.

Spoiler. I did clearance the trunk slightly to clear the turbo. Took a slice out that is ~10in across and ~2in up and back along the small front shelf of the trunk. Will be barely noticeable after it is patched and the trunk is made nice again.

While I was working on that my brother did all of the mock up with the printed parts for the turbo to intake piping. It is a little off from the final fit with real parts but it is close enough for what I am doing right now. No one would know just looking at it but the two of us and everyone else that sees this. This is all so I can make sure multiple parts aren't trying to inhabit the same space later down the road. That and I know exactly what and how much I need when it comes time to put that order in.

The piping has a good 1/2in clearance to the cam sensor on the exhaust side with the couples pushed all the way together. Good clearance on the bottom to the water lines to the oil cooler.
Yes, the pipe is close to the exhaust manifold. Missed the measure twice cut once memo and since we ran out of superglue (hence the blue tape) and the turbo is still loose we just clocked it over a little to make up for it. Final setup it will be turned away from the from the manifold as much as possible for clearance and both the manifold and charge piping will have heat shield of some kind on them.

Man. The side facing throttle body and Cobalt SS/SC manifold with its internal air to water inter-cooler make this setup super clean and simple. Really happy with how this is turning out.

[This message has been edited by KillerFrogg (edited 04-29-2020).]

Will APR 29, 08:05 AM

quote
Originally posted by KillerFrogg:

The trunk corners turned to dust long ago but those are going to wait. When its time for those I am going to outsource that job to one of my brothers that has been helping me and a friend that wants to learn how to do this kind of stuff.




I think all that's necessary to "mini-tub" a Fiero is to replace the spherical trunk corners with cylindrical tubs...
ericjon262 APR 30, 01:40 AM

quote
Originally posted by Will:


I think all that's necessary to "mini-tub" a Fiero is to replace the spherical trunk corners with cylindrical tubs...



I think the strut is still a more limiting factor though isn't it?

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