[This message has been edited by Will (edited 01-04-2022).]

quote Originally posted by pmbrunelle: I would still test by submerging pieces of wire in a glass jar of gasoline for a week or two. I have had insulated wire from a reputable ISO 9001 manufacturer, said to be crosslinked polyethylene, and it started to swell visibly within 2 days IIRC being covered in lubricating grease. You can also measure the diameter of the wire insulation if you want a more quantitative measurement. 1-2 days of chemical exposure is often enough to make problems appear. After 1 week, if the plastic hasn't changed, you're probably good to go. After 2 weeks without changes, then the certainty is even higher. Maybe not all crosslinked polyethylenes are equivalent. Or there's the possibility of counterfeit?

Dunking some is a good idea, tomorrow I'll dig out a jar and throw some in.

quote Originally posted by 87_special: Intercooler fitment looks great. Don't worry about the welds as long as they don't leak. haha. Grinders and flapdisks are cheap... This thing is going to be a beast!

I haven't had a chance to mess with an LZ yet, I keep on thinking about grabbing one, but I need to take care of a few other things first. as far as the welds, I don't worry about the way they look as long as they hold. I try to make nice looking welds, but if they aren't perfect, it doesn't bother me.

quote Originally posted by Will: "Oil resistant" and "fuel resistant" are very very seldom the same thing. Samco lists their hoses as sduitable for "oil & diesel" OR "gasoline and other fuels". Their oil rating does not cover gasoline. ALSO: splash resistant vs. rated for immersion are two different things as well. And finally: As Pat alluded, your particular manufacturer's (hint: do you know who the manufacturer is?) wire might not be up to published standards.

I've had this particular wire(from the same spool) submerged on my current sender without issues we'll see how it looks when it comes out.


Last night I put the engine back in the car, I knew the intercooler would be tight to the firewall, and eyeballing it, I thought it would just clear... Thought... it didn't, it hit the hump where the fuel filler goes, I took it back out, welded a new mount on the side, cut the mount in half, and put a shmedium notch in the outlet plenum. now it fits like a glove. I don't have pictures of the notch, maybe I can get some tomorrow.

I did have another problem I should have anticipated, the blow off valve hit the decklid hinge, I chopped the tube off, clocked it towards the engine, and now all is good there.





here's a shot of the intercooler out of the car. there's not much of it that hasn't been modified yet, I plan to pressure test it prior to final install, it will be devastating if it leaks internally.



I threw together a PTFE clutch line, this replaces the modified stock line, and routes the line under the intercooler where it's out of the way.



Kinda hard to see, being a gray hose over gray concrete and transmission



bleeding the clutch will be easiest to do with the intercooler out, but not impossible with it installed. starting to look like 10 pounds of **** in a 5 pound bag...

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

quote Originally posted by zkhennings: Nice progress, throttle response will be great with piping that short. Was that the primary reason for chopping up your crossmember? Maybe it is just the pictures playing tricks but it looks there is space to have tucked the intercooler above/along the original crossmember, however this would have resulted in longer piping. New Tig looks like it makes some good welds too. How difficult is the aluminum intake tubing to butt weld?

I tried installing it with the original crossmember in place, it was a no-go, to many clearance issues, I really can't adequately illustrate it with pictures, but there was no way it was going to work.

Butt welding the piping was a dream, the cast intercooler parts however were a nightmare.


I'm looking for a better solution for this.



so far, I've machined some UHMW plastic to pass through the wires, I don't really like this because it doesn't actually seal.

I found this:

http://www.radiumauto.com/B...Connectors-P682.aspx

but it's way to tall to fit in the tunnel...

Does anyone have part numbers for comparable Amphenol connector with a right angle top? it only needs to have 2 wires, although 3 would be preferred. I've been digging through Mousers parametric search with minimal luck.

and for the "it's fine put it together" crowd, this is out of a buddies car with a 255 LPH pump, I'm not a fan of toasted wires in a fuel tank, he was lucky it just blew the fuse.



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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 01-05-2022).]

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

the engine package is mostly installed now. I have a bunch of little things, and a few big things to take care of before I fire it up. tonight, I spent a ton of time working on the exhaust, I wanted the car to have a muffler of some kind. a long while back, I bought a used catback off of an Evo X, today I hacked it up.

I used the floor jack to hold the muffler about where I wanted it. I used a replacement Evo hanger, and a universal hanger to fabricate something to hold it up, and then replicated this on the other side.



with both mufflers hanging, I started work on the down pipe.



after several hours of fighting it, I have this monstrosity tacked together. I still need to do the final welds, I'll work on them when I get off work tomorrow morning.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

I turned off all idle and cold start modifiers, (I thought I had yesterday but apparently not...) to minimize the things changing while I was dialing things in. this meant I had to babysit to get it up to temp, but that's fine.

This is where I started, keep in mind, the throttle was commanded to about 8.4% open to maintain this.




this is where I left it, throttle commanded about 6.6%, and much more stable idle. I'm pretty happy considering I got here in less than one hour.



Having the DBW throttle makes this process much smoother and easier, as I can keep the engine idled up to maintain it running while I make VE adjustments.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper