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| Muncie 4-speed clutch arm (Page 3/3) |
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longjonsilver
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MAY 11, 06:08 PM
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You need to have a minimum throw of the slave rod of 1 1/8". A throw of just 1" will not disengage the clutch. That clutch pedal tells me that something is very wrong. Starting that far below the brake, you will not get proper disengagement of the clutch nor will you get 1 1/8" movement of the slave rod. i doubt that the problem is the location of the slave cylinder. Start by checking how much movement at the slave rod.
You can also bleed by yourself using the "hockey stick method". Put the crook of the hockey stick under your left armpit and using your right hand to open and close the bleeder, push down on the clutch pedal with the hockey stick. You know the order no? Open bleeder, push down pedal, close bleeder, release pedal. Do that till there are no more bubbles - it might take a while. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the clutch master.
jon
Remember, many of us have been there done that. Have patience, it IS possible.
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Astronomy says we will find a coded signal from outer space. Then we'll KNOW that life exists there, for coded signals aren't by chance.
Biology says there are coded genetic signals in every cell, but we KNOW that no intelligence created life.
I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 3800SC, 4-wheel drifts are fun![This message has been edited by longjonsilver (edited 05-11-2022).]
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glwalker04
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MAY 12, 02:27 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by longjonsilver:
You need to have a minimum throw of the slave rod of 1 1/8". A throw of just 1" will not disengage the clutch. That clutch pedal tells me that something is very wrong. Starting that far below the brake, you will not get proper disengagement of the clutch nor will you get 1 1/8" movement of the slave rod. i doubt that the problem is the location of the slave cylinder. Start by checking how much movement at the slave rod.
You can also bleed by yourself using the "hockey stick method". Put the crook of the hockey stick under your left armpit and using your right hand to open and close the bleeder, push down on the clutch pedal with the hockey stick. You know the order no? Open bleeder, push down pedal, close bleeder, release pedal. Do that till there are no more bubbles - it might take a while. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the clutch master.
jon
Remember, many of us have been there done that. Have patience, it IS possible.
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Me and my dad bled the cables, turns out there was a lot of air in there, after that we moved back the slave cylinder back like I said I planned on doing. My problem isn't the clutch disengaging, Its the fact that it wont engage, and I moved the slave back so there would be less pressure on the clutch pressure plate. If that doesn't work, I need to figure out why the pedal is so far back. I wish I knew how far the throw was before that, I did not know there it had to be 1 1/8 or more. I will test the throw of the cylinder in its new position to see if it throws out enough.
I moved the slave cylinder back by using a ratchet strap connected to the clutch arm to a secure location in the frame (or if your ratchet is short enough, the engine hoist loops). I then depressed the clutch as someone else tightened the ratchet, enough to hold back the arm. You need to do this since the ratchet can't overcome the pressure of the arm by itself.
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Patrick
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MAY 13, 12:37 AM
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The way I read your posts, you have two issues. Not enough slave travel to properly disengage the clutch, and clutch slippage (probably) due to a worn out clutch disc.
| quote | Originally posted by glwalker04:
My plan is to move the slave cylinder back using the extra hole.
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I don't understand why you're moving the slave.
Instead of moving the slave, test to make sure the clutch arm has fully returned by clamping vice-grips onto the push rod, and pull the push rod further into the slave. The slave piston should be able to move further in. If it doesn't, there's a chance that a longer non-factory push rod has been installed, and the slave is bottoming out (and preventing the clutch from fully engaging).
This is all conjecture though. I still suspect your clutch disc is worn out and is responsible for the slippage.
| quote | Originally posted by glwalker04:
I did not know there it had to be 1 1/8 or more. I will test the throw of the cylinder in its new position to see if it throws out enough.
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With your clutch pedal sitting that low, there's no way you're going to get enough throw at the slave. The pedal will hit the floor long before the slave moves 1-1/8". Your clutch pedal (and/or banjo) is badly bent. An adjustable banjo may or may not be enough to cover this issue. Check the images of bent pedals in This old post of mine.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-13-2022).]
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glwalker04
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MAY 13, 01:37 PM
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My thought process for moving was that the arm has to rotate counter clockwise to actuate so if I moved it back it would give less engagement on the pressure plate, and therefore the clutch pad, since I am having slipping feeling issues, a friend pointed out that maybe the pressure plate is always being slightly engaged enough that the clutch cannot grab it properly, figured I would try this before deciding to take out the entire transmission. I have to try to fix that pedal being so far back as well.
Is there any way to force that clutch arm back if I need to move the slave cylinder back?
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Patrick
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MAY 13, 02:15 PM
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I suggested how to check if there was any pressure being put on the clutch arm when the pedal is released and the clutch is (supposed to be) engaged. It'll take you about one minute to do. If the push rod can be pulled further into the slave when the clutch pedal is at rest, then there is no undo pressure on the clutch arm keeping the clutch from fully engaging. [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-13-2022).]
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