Coolant coming out of exhaust pipes... (Page 3/4)
theogre MAY 20, 01:06 PM
Cold engine can push out a lot of water as normal. More so w/ cold or wet days. This water won't smell like coolant. Can "feel" like coolant because can also pick up oil/fuel/etc. on the way to whatever.

If intake manifold has problems... gasket bad or manifold bad...
Can leak coolant in the engine then "burn" by a 1 or more cinders.
If true that will quickly poison the Cat and O2 sensor.
Pull spark plugs near Tstant and temp sensors/senders on V6 should be cleaner then other plugs from "burning" coolant.
If have other plug(s) cleaner then may have bigger problems like bad head gasket or crack head.
Spadesluck MAY 20, 01:13 PM
I have seen buckets of water come out of tailpipes before when the car was first started up. Condensation in the exhaust is normal. It will be more noticeable in a high humidity area for sure.
creaky78 MAY 20, 04:16 PM
Pull the spark plugs. If one or more are perfectly free of any kind of deposit, that cylinder(s) is sucking in antifreeze from a bad head gasket.
Patrick MAY 20, 04:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

Which bolts should be sealed? Only bolt #4, right?



Both JazzMan and I agree... Yes! We've already covered this a couple of times in your previous thread Here and Here.
Raydar MAY 20, 09:15 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

Ok, I just started the car and let it idle for a few minutes. Not a drop. Not a single drop leaked from anywhere. No white smoke from the exhaust either. And the engine purred like a kitten.
Could it have been simply moist collected during the past 9 months it had been sitting still?




Certainly that could be the case. Your leaking water pump could also be the reason you were loosing coolant, all along.

When my head gasket was leaking, if I hit the gas hard, it would blow coolant out of the engine into (and out of) the overflow bottle.
Try this... let it sit and idle. Once it is up to operating temperature, put the car in drive, and floor the gas for a second or two. No need to hold it for any length of time.
Check the overflow. If it's filling up, and blowing water out, it would tend to point to a blown head gasket. If not, you should be good to go.

Beyond that, just keep an eye on the coolant level, the next couple of times you drive it.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-20-2020).]

Cliff Pennock MAY 21, 03:36 AM
Started her up again yesterday and again, not a drop to be seen (well, a few drops from the thermostat cap). So that's good. Drove it for a few yards and I do notice a few problems:

  1. High idle (around 1500 RPM)
  2. Hardly brakes
  3. FR brake sounds "warped"


The high idle could be because the ECM is reset (had the battery disconnected) and because a few vacuum lines are broken. That it hardly brakes is probably because the brake discs have rusted. But not sure where the warped sound comes from.
fierosound MAY 21, 12:01 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

Started her up again yesterday and again, not a drop to be seen (well, a few drops from the thermostat cap). So that's good. Drove it for a few yards and I do notice a few problems:

  1. High idle (around 1500 RPM)
  2. Hardly brakes
  3. FR brake sounds "warped"


The high idle could be because the ECM is reset (had the battery disconnected) and because a few vacuum lines are broken. That it hardly brakes is probably because the brake discs have rusted. But not sure where the warped sound comes from.



I'd say fix the vacuum lines right away.
You also need vacuum to work the brakes.
Check for vacuum at booster (pull the check valve).

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3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-21-2020).]

Will MAY 21, 03:08 PM
Rusty rotors are going to be loud until they get cleaned off.
Raydar MAY 22, 06:38 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:

Rusty rotors are going to be loud until they get cleaned off.



This. Exactly. Drive it around and make a few stops.
Unless rotors are badly warped, they should wipe off and smooth out, in just a few minutes, or a handful of stops.

High idle might be caused by the ECM needing to be reset by driving.
Or it could be caused by vacuum leaks. Usually by bad plastic lines, or (more likely) by deteriorated rubber fittings at the ends of those plastic lines. Any rubber connector that is easy to twist or move around is suspect.
It won't be nearly as pretty, but I replaced ALL of my hard plastic vacuum lines - and the previously mentioned rubber fittings - with soft rubber lines. Fixed all of my strange intermittent ECM codes and other strange stuff. YMMV.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-22-2020).]

RWDPLZ MAY 22, 07:04 PM
Make a project out of just replacing ALL the vacuum lines and check the routing, then check with a vacuum gauge.