Brake master cylinder combination valve (Page 2/2) stevep914 FEB 11, 04:54 PM Patrick , as an afterthought: I have noticed some wandering of the front end under acceleration and highway speed. Would the rack preload have anything to do with that? There does not seem to be any play in the ball joints or outer tie rod ends. stevep914 FEB 11, 05:59 PM Patrick , as an afterthought: I have noticed some wandering of the front end under acceleration and highway speed. Would the rack preload have anything to do with that? There does not seem to be any play in the ball joints or outer tie rod ends. Brian A FEB 11, 07:06 PM quote Originally posted by stevep914: Well I have tried heat, and the correct wrench, which just stripped the edges of the fitting. ( lots of bruises and swear words came with this), and still no luck. Can’t use PB blaster because the fitting is underneath and upside down. By the tub, I assume you are referring to the front trunk bottom. So I would remove all the carpet, and then remove all these clips, and would get a scenario like the picture you sent me, Patrick? The only other thing I can think of is using a small pipe wrench, destroying the fitting, and hope it does not break off. Steve Note that the rear brake line you're fighting with is 6mm hard steel tubing with a 14mm bubble flare. It might be easier now to replace the rear brake line with 1/4" (6.3mm) tubing IF you can make the appropriate metric bubble flare for a 14mm fitting. I fought a war to connect to that line when I switched to a Wilwood Proportioning Valve. Here is my war story: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/.../HTML/147558.html#p0 Patrick FEB 11, 07:37 PM quote Originally posted by stevep914: I have noticed some wandering of the front end under acceleration and highway speed. Would the rack preload have anything to do with that? There does not seem to be any play in the ball joints or outer tie rod ends. It could, and it's definitely something worthwhile checking out... but it could even be something like loose cradle mounts in the back. stevep914 FEB 12, 07:45 PM Well, I got creative. Knowing the line had a leak somewhere where it goes through the trunk floor, and was toast anyway, I cut it at the fitting, and then used an extractor socket on the nut which was rounded off anyway. Finally got it out of the proportioning valve. I am concerned about a replacement, as it has a much larger set of threads than most brake line fittings I have seen. A step at a time! I will update my progress as there is any. Thanks all for the input! stevep914 FEB 13, 07:10 PM Just to finish up. I could not find a replacement fitting for the damaged one that goes into the prop valve. It is a wierd thread size and nut size. I ended up spending over an hour filing down the old nut to fit a 14mm line wrench ( yes, I bought a new one) a lot of bending and cursing to get the fitting to line up with the port on the prop valve after threading the line through the floor in the front trunk. It is all back together with no leaks so far. Now to bleed all four corners again. Any suggestions on this, as the reservoir for the rear leaking line ran dry.